unccpathfinder

and these are knowledgeable folks not just hearing intake noise? or possibly rear brake noise? what about ball joints? i know wheelmans groaned until he hit about 20 and it was pretty loud...wouldnt call it a "tea kettle" noise tho...his you could just be barely rolling on a flat surface and it was bad

Cal City

yea seals is what i meant... to remove the retainers a small wand magnet makes them easy to remove after the spring has been compressed... ohh yea and there will more than likely be a lot of carbon build up on everything...i used a 3m rotary brush on a drill to clean everything up...put the cylinders at TDC and cleaned them up good to inspect good for cracks...it also helps get the head gasket off pretty easily as well

are they cheap brake pads? i had some advance pads that just had the shims glued on and over a couple months time the shim would work its way down and started hitting the spindle and made a pretty mean noise... for the hubs...does it seem like its extremely hot after driving? that would help point to the hub/wheelbearings did you check the brakes just to makes sure they weren't down to the screecher's or possibly have a rock stuck between the pad and rotor or maybe the spash shield hitting the rotor...i'd yank the tire off and see what i saw

its not too bad...i broke mine doing about 50-55 and hit the clutch as soon as it died...i bent 3 valves at the necks and the guides were all good...just get valves,seats, cam seals, valve cover gaskets, new spring retainers and check all your dimensions to make sure u didnt warp any of the guides...also check the pistons for cracks...mine only left slight dimples on the piston where the valve kissed you will also need lapping compound and a tool to lap the valves in... hope u changed the water pump at the same time too... if u end up needing some heads i have an extra set and i saw that you were in MYB so we could possibly work out something

how are penske's prices compared to uhaul and ryder?...i didnt want to fill out all the crap and let them get back to me for a price...uhaul and ryder give you info without having to go through all of the email stuff

looks as if he tried to get the belt off without pulling the harmonic balancer...and didnt really think it through? or he knew he was about to loose it and wanted to mess it up for the repo

i think the top cover of a maxima will work but the lower half is different due to the different water pump castings...i can look around i might have an extra upper and lower cover i could sell ya cheap...but it may ahve already been scrapped

I am more than likely going to be moving from NC to CA in 3 or 4 weeks...i have plans to drag the 87 on a flat bed uhaul trailer behind a ryder truck...if i move before you I will let u know how it goes but it should be fine without any issues

hey thats not funny slick

i helped a guy do all 4 ball joints, rotors, calipers, steel brake lines and it took us like 8 hrs including running around trying to find wheel bearings...i just did them on my 95 and it took me about 2.5 hrs including a snafoo on a caliper slide pin and having to cut off 1 of the hub bolts b/c it stripped out

ouch on the $400 with parts supplied...

yea the dizzy is the dist....good luck

should be amps correct? you can read 12v and not have enough amps to crank correct?...someone correct this statement if im wrong...i have heard this and witnessed it a couple of times...but dont really know the y behind it...i will assume that the resistance across the battery has somehow decreased with the amps decreasing as well resulting in 12V

i think u have to get pretty creative for the TT to make it fit...and how durable would turbo's be to mud and water? i would think with the heat they see and quenching them with mud/water would make their lifespan shorter...post up what u find out

how bad of a "knock" is it...does it sound like metal on metal or is there a possibility that you managed to wet the dizzy and corrode an electrode and/or corrosion on the plug wires where it connect on both ends or knocked a wire loose... the 95 that i got from wheelman had a lil knock in it the other weekend and i cleaned all the plug wires and made sure they seated in the dizzy (they werent and must have been arcing to complete the spark) but anyways after i did that the knock went away (sounded like a lifter ticking but not as loud) can you take a video and let us hear? does it seem low on power? does the exhaust smell like raw fuel? have you changed the oil yet was it milky? like i said maybe you got lucky and some how soaked the dizzy and it killed it but didnt actually ingest water...my 87 would always run like @!*% after i got done wheeling and it was where the dizzy would get wet...she drank some water/mud a couple of times and i never knew it till it was time to change the filter and i saw the stains in the air cleaner box...how far was the water over the hood?

...thats what i'd do if i could get my hands on the parts b/c that would def be cheaper than $1500

have you checked for corrosion at both the battery terminal and at the starter...and that the cable is tight at the starter...it could also be a bad spot on the solenoid? and after several attempts at starting it moves off of the bad spot and then starts? just throwing some ideas out there

did you have to rebuild the top end? b/c its my understanding that the vgs only have like a 2 tooth tolerance i should have also added that if u r in doubt change it...b/c you will eat valves if it breaks...see below the 2nd valve from the right in the back is a straight valve the others are 2 bent intakes and 1 bent exhaust...intakes from cylinder 1 and 3 and exhaust from cylinder 1

if the belt was installed correctly and u're water pump hasnt leaked on it, it should be changed every 100k miles (95 FSM says 105k miles)

honestly...form the fsm's the bottom end is no different...i could be wrong but im pretty sure that the only diff is in the heads and gets u that extra .1 in the compression ratio...but i dont know what that translates too in hp or torque or rich/leanness if u can program ecu's or get adaptors i'd like to see a good write up on that...i dont know the car side that well

after wheeling with NC95Pathfinder he couldnt turn the wheel hardly to the left but had full articulation to the right and thats what it ended up being...i barely caught it...just happened to see some shinny rub marks on that eye

you dont happen to have an L&P steering stabilizer do you? or any other brand for that matter?...if so pull the skid off and have some1 turn the wheel side to side...i bet you will notice that the plate shifted and the u bolts are hitting the front eye bolt on the front diff carrier...

i believe they will from the looks of it on the FSM (i'd try to do a cardboard mockup or something to get an idea of it)...i believe you could just change the intake like every other vg engine (seems to have the same change lower intake as the MPFI pathy and maxima engines that goes from the heads to the upper intake) bolt up your upper intake and use the DOHCs which will give you a compression ratio of 9.0 up from what a stock pathy has of 8.9 which will probably give you very little power increase...another issue would be swapping out water pumps to one that has the taller neck to align with the pathy crank pulley which i believe you can run a 2wd hardbody water pump (thats what works on the maxima engine the only difference is the throat height) i went to the parts store and had them order both so i could compare bolt patterns and throat heights to the 2wd hb, maxima and 4wd pathy all of which had the same bolt pattern and impeller the only difference was the maxima was shorter and had a different pulley flange the hb and pathy had the same height and flange if it were me thats the route i would take...when i did my maxima engine swap i set both the old pathy engine and the maxima engine side by side...pulled all the brackets off hte maxima engine and chunked them then pulled each 1 off of the pathy engine and installed on the maxima engine...it will use some different mtg points but they are cast the same...then you will probably have to change out the oil pan and pickup and dipstick location which is really easy to do prob takes less than an hr if your extra careful and triple check everything... if i wasnt sure i'd prob pull the heads valve covers and see if the bolt pattern is the same as a pathy vg head and if so and couldnt get the DOHCs to work i'd swap those over a general rule i tend to stick to for myself is not getting involved in a bunch or rewiring and trying to fight with our ecu's which aren't really flashable...but if thats your deal good luck...i can get you wiring diagrams if u choose to get a ecu and try to retrofit it in the pathy to simplify the engine parameter ordeal... pretty much just gotta try things out and figure it as u go

i donno what exactly the diff is in ure engine...but all the vg blocks shoudl be the same...i took a maxima motor and swapped pan,pickup, dipstick, water pump, mounting brackets, and intakes...which happens to be for sale but i think u could make ures work...