unccpathfinder

ohh man that really sucks...what side are you fubared on...i have a set of spindles but the pass side i believe is screwed up from loose wheel bearings but if u want it i can ship it to u...i would put it in my bag but i dont think the airport would like that too much... i would carefully...very very carefully drill down the center of the taper and gradually go up in size this should eventually allow the metal to flex so the taper can come out... or carefully drill in with a small bit in the center for a pilot hole...then drill parallel to the taper on opposite sides...then make the pilot hole bigger and bigger (just making sure not to intrude into the spindle) once they're close to the parallel holes take a screwdriver and small chisel and carefully go down and break the 2 halves free... carefully pry the walls inwards which should relieve some of the compression and hopefully free it...you might even try 4 holes (every 90 degrees all the way around) to break it into 4 pieces... or maybe even drill and tap a half inch bolt in there and go get a grade 8 bolt and see if i could crank it hard enough to twist it loose...if it breaks of inside ohh well just drill it back out good luck laugh.gif laugh.gif huh.gif NO. ok well thats good...my gf is living in the middle of the mohave desert...so i figured most of that southern area was dry and all of this no humidity thing is dumbfounding me...it was like 70 degrees here today but i was soaked when i got home after my ride home...but thats good to hear i like mud

cool...well im shooting for 3 or 4 weeks to have my pathy 100% done (i know this is been going on for almost a year now) but we should try to make a run to URE soon... right now i have to find an electrical short (discovered it this afternoon), replace the front windshield, install UCA's and an alignment, get my radiator patched up where i accidentally put a screw driver thru it and i think i'll be read to ride...ohh yea gotta get it inspected...do u know any joe blow shops that will pass a safety inspection without too many ?s...i dont want to get the run around about my engine swap...

i should have mentioned that my driving style and my cuz's style isnt conducive to clutch longevity, more so me than her but she learned on it... i would say as long as its not yelling all the time and stops after its disengaged u're ok until the clutch is gone...but there is still a risk that it could seize up and leave u stranded....

isnt she up more to the north where theres a good bit of rain and what not...im sure i could find some in the mountains somewhere...i was just glad to get my mud fix the other day....and is pushing me harder to get the truck done b/c they graded in my old place and now its thick slick nasty black mud (helped my neighbor install a detroit locker in his jeep so we had to go test it out) anywho i'll find mud b/c mud is fun and more forgiving than rocks...but i plan on doing some serious mods to her once i get out there

its mostly sand and rocks out there isnt it?

i was kinda thinking that the solenoid signal wire could have a crappy spade connector like mine and somehow get pushed up into the power wire and bypass the ignition causing it to turn on... hope that thing wasnt in gear...man that would have been bad

if all goes well i will be out in june...i've got an interview with a small company on friday and i hope that or one of the bigger companies i've applied to will work out... if i do get there in june my gf will be away on some training most of july and would be a great time for me to get out and explore the california wilderness but i think i will have to get rid of my mud tires and find some terrain tires that arent BFGs hope u get it out soon...

^ what he said...and depending on how bad its whining and how many miles are on the clutch would drive the decision for me...i've had my 95 for almost a year and my cuz had it for a year or 2 b4 me and it always whined a lil bit on cold mornings for the both of us...i just recently changed it when i did the clutch (it had 125k miles or so on it)

you did loosen up the castle nut?...what i had to do with a pickle fork is put a wrench on both sides on the bottom then the fork on top of that to give it enough "lift" to press the ball joint out...i also beat the hell out of 1 (put the nut on about 3 or 4 threads (so that when the nut mushroomed i could still back it off and slide the stud out of spindle)...when i helped wheelman do his the socket actually was busted and we couldnt hold the stud(it just spun so i ended up hacksawing it off and beating the crap out of it with a hammer... u could also try to heat it up and beat on it or even heat it up and quinch it and maybe it'll break loose...i would offer a helping hand if u dont get it done by thurs but i think the gf would kill me if i flew all the way out to cali and worked on a pathy 1st thing...but if for some reason u cant get it by next sat i will kindly ask her if it would be ok to come and help out depending on exactly how far u r from california city

hahaha...my roommate just showed me this... http://www.hallpass.com/media/crazysteeringwheel.html i wonder how long that takes to run down the battery (if the car is off)...

^try try and try again till it works...dont get impatient

yea...yea...dont back off now...jk...we all like to give u a hard time...and every now and then learn u some new things...but after my move to cali i plan to meet up at least once and do a trail ride..at least so u can show my ass up and be like yea this stupid (in a just kidding way) somebitch tried to do this and i told him not to...u could have def been more harsh...was just trying to let him know being a "ghost" didnt earn him any credit...i did that for a long time and thru that and engineering ingenuity (spelled horribly cuze im too lazy to use m-w.com) i learned new things and confidence in things that were accomplishable (new made up words) that actually worked and made my way in to the semi 88 world (know my nissans well at least my 87 and 95 to make it worth while...but 88 is the man and his pathy is the @!*%....(sorry if this is rambling or doesnt make sense but the roommate and i got a 1/4 keg of budweiser tonight and the brain is slowish...

its a damn shame that u can own a nice ass ride...with the ability to drive it with no altercations (forgot about that ticket u used to have posted on wd21)...but it should be at least what its worth in a the event of a stealization of the @!*% pathy....

just pulled some off that had 275k on them...no issues but they are being upgraded with the new UCAs...i've also heard of them as connecting rods...or that do hickey with the 2 bolts on the UCA... dont be jumping on 88...he has the power to i think what he was mainly getting at is there are topics all over about this...

88 i dont think thats completely true...i know here in NC i had full coverage on my 87 then my mom dropped it off to liability only...it would have cost me $1000 to get it back on full coverage and they would appraise my vehicle...I bet if you got it appraised that you could get full coverage up to that amount (or how else would classic car guys insure theirs besides that classic car insurance bs)

do u have headers...if so they used to go to the exhaust... i have broken straps all over the place on my truck and no issues so far

has any1 run a compression check on it? if not i would recommend doing that i just reread the original title and that would be my 1st stop. where r u located? b/c i would also lend a helping hand if they cant fix it

well i cleaned it all up 2 days ago and parked down at my neighbors house to help him with his bug...i noticed 2 silver dollar size spots on the driveway and climbed under it...the starter has a lil oil on it but not much at all...the bottom of the tranny is covered with oil and it seems as if its coming out of the bell housing...this weekend im going to pull the starter and stick some rags in the housing to see if and how much oil is in there... so im looking at rear main and/or oil pan... next question...if i find that the bell housing is full of oil its more than likely the RMS...so i changed it when i changed the clutch...i've put 10k miles on the clutch...i assumie i should just drop the tranny out pull the clutch and flywheel then do the RMS and reuse the clutch and flywheel (marking both and their locations when removed to keep the balance... while thats out should i go ahead and drop the FA and do the pan b/c i think it will be leaking soon...and i need to do valve cover gaskets... would it be possible to do all of this on a weekend?...i've done the clutch before over a span of 3 nights with about 6 hrs of work a night but that was about all i could handle at the time...this really pisses me off b/c i could only get the parts thru advance auto and i knew the @!*% would end up leaking...grrr

autozone is the same way...and if u decide to not return the tool its the same price as the tool...so its not a huge deal...i was in there and the manager was like yea thats the price of it os if u decide to keep it go right ahead

sweet i never could find it either and that would make life a lot simpler....im pretty sure theres not 1 on my 87 tho...but my method seems to work for me just time consuming

if some1 can show me a pic i should have 1 off of my 87 that i would be willing to part with for cheap...

i spent a couple hrs trying to find this "adapter" in both of my engines and never found it...look at the end of the manual crank and the end of ure automatic crank if they look the same then theres no adapter present...if they're different then theres an adapter... for old pilot bushings i take a 1/16 in drill bit and drill on both sides then take a flat tip and carefully break it through and pull it out...you can use clay and a dowl to press it out from the backside or go to autozone and rent a puller and slide hammer...

not supposed to hit the truck with the wrenches and hammers...they fly and hit the neighbors house or into the middle of the street.... nice tranny jack...mine was the engine hoist thru the door but i had my chain too long and it got in a bind when putting it in and when it came loose it jumped up and busted my front windshield (the 2nd go round went much better in my green truck with the clutch change) dont feel bad about the fat lip during my engine swap i got 2 black eyes and a fat lip...black eyes came from the wrench slipping off while under the truck and the 1/2 in drive ratchet nailing me in the eye/nose on 2 diff occasions... good luck...

i tap it in very gently to not deform the brass and then once its in barely enough to stay there i put a socket (not sure what size) that matches the size of the bushing and hit the socket till its in there...sometimes i use a piece of wood flat across it till its almost all the way in

yep at least for the time being...i just need to get it mounted permanently instead of it flopping around in the floorboard...now that i sold the scout i can push it back in the garage if its nasty out so i can get her ready for some URE runs B4 heading out to cali and if it stops working i'll just somehow use a GPS to record mileage and speed until i get the urge to drop the t case and swap out sensors