unccpathfinder

the way i always do it is turn the engine so that #1 is at tdc or note the position of the tab for #1...use intuition b/c the tab in the cap is not where the plug plugs in but you can see its routing in the plastic mold...so what i have done... mark where that tab is on the outside of the dist..turn engine till rotor faces this point...take picture and note postion of screw/rotor...then when dropping in the new 1 make sure they all line up..its going to be pretty obvious when u start getting close...i think the rotation in the teeth is like 60 degrees or something...you can also note where the rotor turns to as u pull it up to give a ref of where you need to start when dropping it in... i have a post hwere i screwed that up and i had it about 180 degrees off (too many budweisers that day) and having to change my roommates brake booster at the same time (he'd stare at it for an hr then ask me and i'd do it and then he'd stare for an hr and so on and so on so i'd loose concentration on what i was doing and got it backwards) u'll know if its way bad off by either it sounds like @!*%/doesnt run or you cant get the timing even close with adjustments

theres 6 at the u pull it here i can search for a shifter on sat am when i go if u'd like...or u can rig it up...just let me know cuze they just set 2 new pathys and 2 hbs this week...so hopefully it hastn been completely hacked by sat am...

hmm i donno how diff it all is but till i read the link above about wheelmans...his engine (95) is what i dropped into my 87 that had all those tubes and what not and i didnt have a lick of interference with anything (except they lay along the brake lines b/c the early wd21s have the lines on the side of the rail instead of on top...gotta get some heat wrap so i dont create air pockets) headers were installed when i dropped the engine...and comparing between the 2 the only difference i see (my 95 isnt a cali version tho i think they're the only 1's with that return tube from the catbut could be wrong i know my 87 is from cali but it was also TBI)...the 95 engine was also an auto and i dropped it into a manual so i wouldnt have that cooler interference but i know his didnt..

be careful aligning everything up...cuze those teeth do some crazy rotations on the rotor up top...it can throw u're timing way off

http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8671/whgdata/whlstt88.htm#88 this might help... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2429&hl=2000 maybe this too... PM me with an email address...i just took a bunch of pix of my FSM so hopefully they will be readable and helpful...

i see...i'd be really interested to see what they do...i bet they hard mod the board somehow then flash it...i'll have to look around sometime and see if theres any pics out there...or buy a scrap ecu and take it apart and see what all is in there...

if it doesnt seal...get some jb weld and seal it up...then cake some mud on it and they'll never know...

so its possible to receive programmed ecu's?...i thought they were non-flashable...if you get 1 thats programed does that make it flashable? if so some smart computer folks need to figure that out for us...i think it would be fun and interesting to tune up the pathy for daily driving then for off roading... sorry i didnt have any input to benefit you but i thought this was interesting...

the hook is only as strong as the hardware used to mount it up...so make sure they're some good grade steel (not no lowes or home depot (hardware store) crap) make sure they're good strong bolts and see if you can find the shear strength of them and makes ure it makes sense to use with what your pulling

possibly a loose coil wire or plug wire?...no problem on the help thats what we're here for...i forgot my book this morning so i was running late...but i have had my truck run like it was running on 5 cylinders b/c of plug wires and a bad coil...also if it has been moist there is a chance that the dist cap could have gotten moisture under the cap and some of the contacts got rusted... it might not be a bad idea to swap out the rotor, cap, coil and plug wires if u have the $ its not a guaranteed fix but it would be a starting place...also i'd check the rest of the harness or check the voltage on the other end of the wires you found snagged up...maybe theres a loss and a result of the poor performance... I'll try to tell u exactly what those wires were once i get a chance to look at this book...

i should be removing that tube sometime in the near future...do you have a welder i could send you however much you need and could bend it to form and cut out the section you need to weld it in... other advice...use a BFH but be careful not to crimp it... leave it disconnected till its time for a smog check? then go by an exhaust shop and let them take care of it for u

sounds like a short in the switch or alarm...i had an issue 1 time when my factory alarm went off i hit the wipers accidentally trying to get the keys in the ignition and neither the back glass opener or wipers would work until i shut her down and cranked her back up... i'd check the wiring/switch

another good way to see if its the same CV is to count the # of bolts...older had 6 and new 5 or maybe the other way around...a good way to break the bolts is to place a wrench on them and if the front wheels are off the ground spin it so the hub locks and use the wrench against the framerail to break it loose (if your lucky enough to find 1 with a wheel and hubs still in place) i had an issue with seized bolts on a cv...it sucked....

k well i'll review my FSM for my 87 (it was TBI as well) and see if i can get it all figured out for u tomorrow...at least the wires and what they go to...

lemmie go grab my FSM and i'll see what i can find out... its MPFI isnt it?

FTS...i thought we'd been thru this already? u went to Byrd didnt u?

somewhere on here and i know over at 4x4parts.com i have instructions on how to make 1 from a 1/2 ton pickup 4 prong... it makes life so much easier...

hmm must have missed that hole at the body shop and the guy installing the plates on the assembly line chunked the cover plate in the trash so he didnt have more work to do...

every1 i've seen had the panel...4 10 mm bolts to get it off then 8 or so 8 mm bolts on the pump

spray them with some PB cuze a lot of times they're rusty and can break off...they're 10mm if i recall correctely... it also might be good to disconnect/remove the turn signals and fog lamps B4 hitting the bolts on the bumper

u will have to remove the tires as well....i actually set the drums all the way on the ground and it was pretty tight...and i had to go buy a longer travel jack b/c my 2 ton jacks were not tall enough to get the frame up high enough to get the 3" spring lift in... responded fondo...i forgot to mention that i dont have the rubber boot that sits in the bottom the 87's were non existing so i swiped the 1's off of the 95...also make sure u get the alignment right on the last coil in the bottom footing...i didnt know about this at 1st and had to go back and do it...luckly i had compressors so it wasnt that hard

i would makes ure the liner and insulation stuff was the same material ie latex on latex i have seen paints that have different bases cause bad reactions with each other...

if u need new springs in the rear i have 2 sets... and yes a good spring compressor is the best way but its kind of tight in there so plan accordingly...

i got some reg torx heads with sheetmetal clips today so i'll be installing those this weekend..

born and raised in fayetteville NC but live in charlotte now and work in gaffney SC The only problem with the box is if ure taller than about 6'2" your head can hit the corners while offroading...my roommate got a nice strawberry 1 time from the corner...im 6'0" and have never hit it...