unccpathfinder

i've had several failed attempts to pull that SOB off...i figured i was going ot break something else B4 i got it free so let it be...it wasnt broke so i decided to not fix it and so far i havent been bit by that 1 yet...

follow the t bar from the front to the rear...where it stops thats the cross memeber...to the inside it will have an 18mm bolt...back the backnut on the top side off then put the back wrench on the topside and crank away at the bolt...it'll loosen up...jack up the front end before starting and ti will make this a lil easier..air helps out a lot too...then remove the 3 bolts up front on the anchor plate 2 14mm and a 17mm..u'll prob need 2 14mm wrenches to get to the top 1...mark everything before starting then u can figure it out when it goes back together...i usually just pull it out form the front then drop out the Xmember...then i only have to worry with 2 alignment marks...and usually those rear 1's are rusted in pretty good...i PB'd and banged on my 87's and they still wont come apart... heres everything to pull the engine...as u can see the tbars are still in the x member

u could always put the manual tranny into ure auto that would be the easiest thing...

what do u mean by the gears are messed up? not matching to what the selector says or grinding and what not...I changed the shift cable on a caviler after it broke off in N and it took lots and lots of tweaking for it to match up on the shifter and tranny

i know a guy that had the 4 banger in his HB pickup running 33's and he didnt seem to act like it had lost too much... thats interesting in how you achieved 3"s of lift was the body lift homemade? i dont recall seeing a 1" body lift... what size tire did you come up from? 235X75R15 (or was it 275...its been so long i cant remember what i had b4 i got the 31's)? i have the v6 and i didnt really notice any power change...except the dunlops were a lot stickier than the radials i had on there and it was a lot harder to spin the tires from fast (well as fast as a pathy can go) acceleration

I dont think i was here before your accident but thanks a lot for creating the site...there is a bunch of good folks on here and its all b/c of you...glad to see your on the road to recovery and best wishes

sure just drive on over here to NC and drop it off for about a month and we'll get it done...the rear main will be the most PITA...if its manual u might as well to a clutch and all of its crap

i've got a bad tire on mine and it does the same...but i did have bad ball joints and wheel bearings that helped it a lot after i replaced those...i also noticed my rotors were done in a crappy mold and when they machined the backside there was pockets of air so the rotor has big ole pockets which can throw it out of balance bad too good luck... ohh yea i took my tires to get balanced and the bad tire was 9oz out of balance

i guess it depends on how much lift u want...for max lift pull the front retainer plate and loosen the adjuster bolts all the way up and twist the bar so its bottomed out on the adjuster and then slide the adjuster plate over the bolts tighten it up then crank away...but if your not getting coils in the rear this will set the nose way up in the air

theres 2 diff sizes...it takes about 10-15 mins to pull the cluster out and you could just check that way...

I just went googling around and figured that a bunch of the ricer guys have figured this out on the 300's and what not...heres a program that can read what ure ecu is doing...i dont know what hookups u need or anything but i thought it was interesting http://202.43.226.57/

nope never thought of using it at home...but the u pull it yard i go to every single car is sitting on 4 of those badboys and its sturdy as hell...when they repostiion them they push and tug on it to make sure it wont fall...the old yard i worked in some we just stacked up tries to use as jackstands...

i like kenwood...thats all i've ever had...its affordable and i've never had problems with either of mine...

i didnt make it back over there...but there were 3 sets of autos and 1 set of the superwinches... if it wasnt going to rain all night and day i'd run over in the morning... thanks guys

found some Superwinch manual wheel locks at the u pull it yard but need a drill to get them off some1 killed all the allen heads so before i go back up there will they fit on the splines of a 95 i think 87 and 95 are diff and i dont know if there is a diff between HB and pathy Found my answer...they will only work 86.5-89...now the next question would it be worth having trail spare manual locks (already have warns on my 87) or just keep my autos

if u still have it jb weld it back together...if not i'll look at the JY this am and if i find 1 i'll snag it for u...

dont hit the glass or it could be bad...

pop the cover up...hit the 10 or 12mm bolt...then i usually use my nice snapon spark plug boot pulling tool and hook it around the bottom edge of the wiper and snatch bc they're hard to get off... to take the cowl cover off...remove the cowl vents and remove i think its like 6 screws and have the hood open and she should pop off...i dont think u have to remove the fenders

i broke the rotor part off...put a pair of vice grips on it and worked it back and forth till it came off...

yea i knew what he meant... if u look it up in the FSM its up under FA or front axle...its just not a conventional axle tube with shafts...anywho those directions are the 1s...and i forgot i saw this the other night... http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8671/8671R07..._Carrier.htm#T2

before some1 else says it...to better assist in help remove the capslock key... rule #1: dont drop it on the finger it hurts and sends you to the hospital... some people say they can get it out without dropping the rear end but i have done this 3 times on 2 diff trucks 1 auto and 1 manual and that was not the case... im assuming you've at least pulled the tranny back to seperate it from the engine... to remove axle: 1. jack up front and support on stands 2. remove wheels 3.remove locking hubs and spring retainers 4. remove cv's 5. unbolt the axle (i usually do the 1's up front 1st from the frame rails then the cross member bolts...i usually place a big cardboard box under the axle and let gravity do the work) but now that i have a big faced jack i would lower it with the jack...the fun part is getting it back in

nah i dont think reseting the ECU will do anything for u...even if u get it out of time...

i know running straight headers is bad...but my 87 that i completed the 95 swap on...my test drive (see below) and some other drives were with nothing but headers and i didnt notice anything abnormal and there should be like 0 back pressure i know it would be bad for the engine over time but i didnt see rpm changes that were out of the blue from my DD 95...she was just loud as hell

well if there is 1 i'll grab it...if u dont want it i'll hang on till i do my BL once i get ole whittie back up and running at full balls and shes beggin for more lift...it shouldnt be more than like $6 i think its funny...every1 wants short throws and we're all throwing longer shifters in...that increase the travel...but i guess its the price u pay for lift...unless u figure out a complex system of linkage to shorten it up maybe a 4 bar system

my normal idle on a cold day (40 F and below) is like 2-2.5k then once warm it drops off to normal .5k...i dont know what affect this might have on the O2 and/or it could affect idle but maybe the ecu needs to be reset...