unccpathfinder

i sure havent figured out how to get in the damn thing with a slim jim...i've opened all kinds of cars but can never get to the lock on the pathy...and who wants to steal my pathy? i used to keep my formed coat hanger in the trailer hitch and the vent visors almost always open after i locked my keys in a couple times...it still took me like 3 or 4 mins to do it each time...but no1 ever stole my truck thankfully no matter what u do if some1 wants it they're gonna take it... heres my deterrent: b/c who wants to steal a truck where the radar detector has wires and electrical tape all over it...just imagine what the rest of the car is like (not to mention all the wires hanging out of the dash where my cb died and I just snatched it out and clipped the wires...

sounds like a w/p to me if hes saying the output flange is where the fan bolts up...b/c thats right where the weep hole is...when mine went bad it only leaked after city driving but on the highway it never leaked i guess it stayed cool enough to not build up pressure to blow by...

u can try NOAS and 4x4parts.com and there are a bunch of HBs over there

alright well i'll just send the whole link then...just PM me with the information so I can get it shipped out

well i will have to find a press to get that for u...i only found 2 pass side UCS's out there and they both were rusted up really bad and didnt look good so i grabbed a driver side off of a 94 it looks pretty good...my buddy returned my call this AM so i should be able to go over to his place this afternoon and get it pressed out and then tomorrow after work go over to office depot and ship it...the price ended up being $18 (they charged like 2 for a core charge then 1 and some change for environmental charge) but thats alright

http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8671/chilton...1/86714021L.gif is that not the egr plumbing? http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8671/chilton...1/86714053L.gif and vacuum schematic?

ohh yea i forgot about that too

so i changed my clutch not too long ago (about 10k miles now) and i did the rear main and noticed oil starting to leak all over the place and instantly thought its my rear main...tonight after a lil investigating it seems like the oil pressure sending unit is leaking...the little orange boot on it was completely filled with oil and it has blown all over the underside of my truck....i really hate that connector too so a couple of questions...will it eventually break all the way and just dump my oil? would it be better to go ahead and invest in a gage and loose the old dummy light? (or i could tee off to a gage after replacing the sending unit... im going to try to purple power everything tomorrow if i have time and investigate a lil further...i was just looking cuze i dropped some oil in my buddies driveway today after our 7 hr hood swap/alignment party on his ss camaro (the new hinge brackets were sprung and we wasted about 4 hrs trying to figure out what the deal was and eventually stuck the old hinges on that we thought were bent from where he had an altercation with traction control engaging while playing which happened to land the nose right into a light pole but we got all the parts for under $1500: bumper, hood,condenser, hood latch bracket, front clip cross member, hinges, front cover plate. now the bumper just needs to be painted, the hood touched up from shipping and u would never know)

you might also want to check wheel bearings for the shake...i've been fighting the same thing for about a year now and i've pretty much narrowed it down to my shocks and tires/wheels ( 1 is 9 oz out of balance)

i cant get up with my buddy that has the press and i was kind of thinking once its been pressed out the bushings would prob have to be replaced do u want me to just send the whole control arm?

theres an allen key in the tensioner did u play with it...its what allows u to tension/release tension on the belt...also i would try to match the new with the old belt to make sure they were in fact the same size

assuming we're still good...i'll get it in the am after grabbing some Z's...hopefully i get about 3 or 4 in....but if u for some reason decide u dont want it let me know B4 10AMish tomorrow...otherwise im pulling it for ya

and it is a good point to make that the ears on the bottom are pretty tight and difficult to get in...i always shoot above the and it falls into place...

on the bottom side theres 1 on the front and back...my back bolt sheared off 3 times so the last time i said screw it...luckly they engineered it (intentional or not) that if teh bottom bolts shear off u can tighten the bad boy down and it'll rest against the block and still have tension on the belt... so total of 5 bolts u have to touch 1 top mtg (pivot bolt) 2 on the bottom side...the adjuster bolt and the bolt that locks the adjuster block...

hahaha that gave me a good laugh...i wish i knew some1 at nissan that could leak me some iges files or something or even a stp file or anything that catia would read

those cracks right on the part lines?...my 87 had those too and it never came apart thankfully...i beat on it pretty good to make sure it still was held together pretty good...

http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8671/8671.ht..._Carrier.htm#T2 u should be able to find 1 in here somewhere....

theres a diagram in 1 of the how to sections i'll try to find it but theres a FSM (kinda) posted in there

yea...well it doesnt have to be exact...and since i dont know how to do the complex surfacing yet i think it will be fairly easy to do the rear hatch hood and windshield and possibly the sides excluding the fenders...but im sure with enough time and effort i can make something that represents the pathy pretty closely

i have 1 now...on the pass side near the back theres about a 4 in hole and where it goes into the intake it cracked and it whistles pretty loud...

yep...and i'll get it off the newest truck there (i think its a 95)

Thanks...i should have mentioned i had those out of the FSM... I was looking more towards the hood is X long by X wide with X spacing at X angle from horizontal...i was looking over some stuff and i think if i can figure it out i can actually take pictures of the front and sides and import it in and trace the edges then start to create complex surfaces...it should be nice this weekend so i will start pulling measurements and might have to fudge some if i cant figure out that trace function... im going in way over my head on this 1 but i really want to learn the software and do something besides just work with it... today i found where you can actually make walk/fly thrus so i was thinking about modeling my house or an engine and do a fly thru...and if i did an engine create the kinematics...theres just so much work/time in modeling something that complex (engine)

ok...being the Enginerd that i am...i want to practice my skills that i've been learning in Catia V5 (3d modeling package) and would like to create the body and then go back and create the frame and possibly suspension and maybe all the parts over time...but it has all kinds of kick ass features (walk through's and what not) i think the models would help me make decisions in things i would like to do...so if any1 knows where there are pretty detailed dimensions that would be great...i have a feeling the tape measure is going to be close to my only option

i didnt think most of them did...the "spindle" thats being refered to is the top rod with the 2 holes that mate it to the frame...i always thought that was the connecting rod...and from the pic thats what it looks like i just wanted to make sure it wasnt the actual spindle (where the wheel bearings seat) that your looking for...

i'd do valve seals and valve cover gaskets, t-stat, fix exhaust studs while the heads are off and intake gasket...my egr on my 87 couldnt have worked b/c the cast passage in the intake was clogged completely with carbon