unccpathfinder

theres lots of things out there...i have never used them but i know a lot of people get parts off of www.4x4parts.com... welcome and glad you enjoy ure pathy

where do you get the safety torx head screws? and the tool to install/remove them... also while walking the parking lot this afternoon i noticed 2 other nissan trucks that had their vents missing 1 had both missing another had the pass side missing...im wondering if the 1 guy lost/had both of his stolen and then borrowed/stole them off of my truck and the other truck...

im not sure of the back spacing and what not on my 95 but i had to crank the t bars to keep them (31 10.5 r15) from rubbing the front valence and fender flares and if i hit a good bump or go over some easy flex the rears will hit the fenderwell and fronts hit the flares... but my 87 with stock wheels has no issues with the 31's (10.5 r15) except i didnt reindex the bump stops so if its turned hard the knobs on my mud rovers will hit the frame rail...

in my 87 (XE) i didnt have front speakers but i did build a box that holds 4 3.5" speakers where the cab light is...but in the rear below the triangles i put 6x9s... the box with the light is my speaker box...i forgot i did the custom headliner too... and if u look closely u can see it hanging down about 2.5 ins in the middle...

yea i was looking at that under the truck at the yard...stock axle completely maxed out there was like .5-.75 ins of clearance on the x member with the safety loop...that would suck... i was just curious b/c i never heard about it on the boards here and was suspecting we didnt approach the limits...most i heard it on were like chevy blazers and the shortbed reg cap pickups

glad to see ya got it going.. .i have had my body panels out so many times swapping speakers and wires that it takes me like 15-20 mins to get every body panel out of the truck...and now it sits with none until i get all of my wiring for lights, cb and radio done

u can never say never...if you know u're gun and what PSI does what torque it can be done...and in manufacturing they have what i believe is called torque guns so it tightens smoothly until it his the torque and cuts off... but there are some things i use my impact on my such as the T-bar bolts or other bolts that are longer than 1" just to get them snug then go back and hit with the torque wrench to make sure they're to the right spec... i dont think its even possible to get an impact in for that bolt (unless it was 1 of those mini guns and i dont know that they would have enough ass to tighten it completely)...but i've never tried it always use my breaker with hammer and have no issues

and dont scratch the heads surface where the seal seats...i usually slide it under and pull it up till it bends enough to get some needle nose pliers on it and pull it out...

ok well next question...now that both of my pathy's have had gl 4 put in them should i keep running that or switch back...im gonna go those guys

chock the wheels...put it in gear place socket on crank bolt...place breaker bar on crank bolt...beat the ever living @!*% out of breaker bar...this is how i have always gotten mine on and off (although mines a manual) just be careful not to hit anything else...i guess u can call it a manual impact...

if u jack it up high enough and disconnect the ebrake cable...or go borrow some spring compressors...thats the easiest way... i had to remove the rear wheels and lay the diff on the ground and jack up the truck and disconnect the e brake cable and it took me about an hr or so for the rears... for ure UCA's do they come with the tension rod(i guess thats what its called) the thing for the 2 bolts to go thru...when replacing the bushings on the old its a PITA we broke my buddies grandpa's press (it wasnt hydrolic) so with lots of pb and heat i beat the @!*% out of them and they finally came off...

awsome work...

do cam seals too...B4 pulling the old belt its good to match up all the timing marks (the 2 cams) and take a punch nad make the mark for the crank (i have seen 4 pathy engines now and none had the crank timing mark stamped...and i always count as listed in the FSM to make sure nothing is out of whack...

sweet how much? the 1 i did get off was rusted up pretty bad big scaly stuff...shoot me a PM on them if you dont mind... yea i wish i would have had about $100 (they only take cash) cuze i would have gotten some wheel locks, a 92 grill to put on my 87 2 ecu's, bug guard and whatever else...they had just put this 1 out when i walked thru the gate at 8:30 b/c the only thing gone was tail lights and corners and some speakers...by 1 when i left she was damn near completely stripped... but i did get my cowl vent 4 bolt manual cross member a non power antenna and the brush guard i might go back next weekend and get a tire carrier to try and install as well cuze there was 3 of them out there and maybe a roof rack

i'll snag one from T&D 1 weekend and measure it its all fancy with the magnet and what not...good info thanks

so my next ?...with 3 " of suspension lift how much will that increase the angel and should i have to adjust it?

got 1 of the 2...the drivers side weld nut busted off in the frame rail...im debating on making a new 1 or going back with my hacksaw...

i had an issue with mine not turning over...i just ran a wire from the solenoid on the starter to a toggle swtich to test roll over (and for now starting until i get the relay in place) for some reason the #4 pos. on my ignition didnt work... next ? did you change steering columns? some of the connectors sill fit each other and shouldnt this will cause problems as well...

heres a pic of the brush guard i got off of a 92 for $23...i wish i would have had a list of parts every1 needed b/c she was complete when i got there at 8 but now shes about completly stripped...

i believe you have to change the motor on the firewall as well which isnt very involved but dont hold me to that

interesting on the GL-4 and GL-5...I spoke with a dealership and they said they use GL-5 now b/c the 4 is not available b/c i couldnt find any...they said that it superseded the 4 so it was ok just like dot 3 and dot 4 brake fluid, you can go up from 3 to 4 but cannot go back down to 3 after you do that... and i checked the records on the 95 and the owner B4 me had it changed and they used GL-5...this could possibly explain my syncro grind...

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLM...n=Ignition+Coil i believe this is what i bought...i remember being shocked (not literally) ...esp since a chevy or ford coil is like $8 when u do this i'd recomend the rotor, cap, & plugs to be done as well

i've got a coil thats not that old maybe a year or so...i could sell yea for like $20ish i guess i dont even know what i paid for it off of my 87...

k...well then maybe the injector is gummed up or something? b/c 25 F shouldnt be anywhere near cold enough to gel fuel...i know it was like 19 here the other day and i didnt have a problem...and my 87 when it was still TBI never gave me a lick of trouble when it was cold

shouldnt be...the injector will make it mist...hmm possibly pull a plug and wire and turn it over to make sure theres spark getting to the cylinders...also check that the coil wire and all of that is hooked up...