unccpathfinder

I run/ran 33's and the stock gearing isn't the best but not horrible...I'm only looking to run 4.88 on 35's or 37's Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

I had it on about 8 months before I traded my truck...I got a couple nicks in the fender flares from parking lots but its easy to spray back over it and it blends in perfectly...and I wouldnt day its easy to remove...you have to get it up then pull at a steady rate...pretty durable...grill never chipped, neither did the wheels...never used high pressure (pressure washer) to wash it but did hand wash it with no problems and a hose to rinse Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Yes bead locks are just to clamp the tire to the wheel inside and out to keep from popping the bead off when running low air pressure...the tire and wheel still need to be the correct sizes...meaning diameter and width...you can run wider tires on a narrow rim but i woudlnt do the opposite (I.e. 12.50 tire on a 10" wheel) Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Rtv and tie straps lol...sorry I can't help other than that and JY parts

When I had my taco I did grill, wheels and fenders Before After It comes off flat surfaces pretty easy too

As long as the gas didn't get water in it, its fine...gas doesn't go bad...mine sat with a full tank for almost 3 years and after the engine swap it drove fine with no additives or anything...check the intake for rodent nests

I pulled the grill and emblem to do it and masked off the already black areas...pretty straight fwd...wash and spray...ifbubsont like it

I would have pastidipped it

$3.09/gal gas $3.57/gal diesel I love sc

So I'm working on my SAS and I'm starting from the trans back...I'm not SASing without a doubler so I figured I would get some input from the forum...I can't afford an atlas and really not needed where I wheel on the east coast...so I'm down to stacking NP205 and 231...I've weighed both and will be reserved on which way I'm leaning... I can get both cases for $100 the 231 is more common and both need a SYE...gonna poll it up...please post your pros and coons...would love to hear from folks RU king 1 or the other

Holy blast from the past...can't remem: I pulled out but the pix r still around http://www.cardomain.com/gallery/7817929 http://www.cardomain.com/gallery/7817930

IACv is a blue plug iirc

Trash can? Never seen it before...maybe for a different VG?

Check the schematic and route some wires from the relay to the pump? Just an FYI u can pull the rear carpet and there is a plate that u can remove to get better access to the pump aside from droping the tank Or check the voltage at the relay to make sure its getting what it needs from the ecu...then go from the relay to the tank

Make sure u have all ure injectors connected and the harness in the right order...first id listen for the fuel punp to purge to make sure its working...if so then make sure about the supply and return on right then my first comment

I did yota bumpers from trail gear http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35784-swapped-my-yota-bumpers-from-the-87-to-the-95/

Just remember... if u r offroading there is always the chance to get stuck...all it takes is a belt to jump, no spare or even just hitting a soft spot that ends up being 2' deep but dry on the surface...I would reccomend always having some tools, spare parts and some means of recovery be it another vehicle, winch, high lift, come a long etc and so on

Many salt states don't use salt anymore...but the chemical they do use will cause corrosion as long as it gets wet meaning all year round rust...aside from 2 years ago where a trailer ramp rubbed on it from moab ut to grant as...I haven't touched/treated it in over 2 years Frame is solid and no rust wasn't undercoated until 2001 when I purchased it

Am antenna...I was cheap and didn't replace it with that windshield when I broke mine and I don't have any FM issues...am works as well as any am I've heard but honestly only listen to FM or USB

I thought the taper was different... could be wrong tho

Better throw a timing belt on that list...

Pull plug #1 and put it at tdc by hand cranking the crank with the crank bolt and wrench...I use a clothes hanger or weld wire in #1 to find tdc Next carefully rotate the cams (much easier if you follow the fsm andloosen the rocker arms then I get the belt on everything (tensioner last and put it on about 1/2 way...the trick is to only get about 1/2" of belt on each pulley and then slide it all in together BC if u go too far in on 1 u won't get it on...at that point check the crank to cam and the cam to cam and be sure u have ure 43/40 split...if not figure out which you need to fix and slide the belt off enough the 1 to rotate it and slide the belt back on.. Basically just setting time from step 1 BC I know all of the blocks I've used don't have the tdc mark on the oil pump housing so I just set #1 to tdc by the indicator (hangar or weld wire )

No. But u will need the at computer and fix ure Mt harness to work with all of that...but ifits just the engine u r changing it shouldn't matter if its at or Mt

When I went there were at least 4 wd21's