unccpathfinder

Looks fine to me

I used a sceptre rubber adapter and made it work after broke on the trail...have been running for 2 years without an issue

From my experience...worn out lca bushings and other worn components allow for the steering to "toe" and when driving with more than acceptable toe things break...TRE being the weak link...everyone at moab was telling me less gas...I was romping the throttle BC I had cracked headers to keep the truck running but never spun the tires and2 times was just doing a slow crawl but when the susp drooped toe gets worse and it gripped...drove in a bad anglr and pop

Good luck getting the LCA bushing out...mine are coming off when i cut that part of the frame off

Tripped over the d44 again

I'm not a rock racer...slow and technical is my game....just at certain angles without sway bars and full rebound it was always a known...I basically knew if i was going to bend something before I got on the obstacle...but that's just me knowing my truck...other issues contributed but I'm fixing it with a D44 I bent a free TREs while it was my DD but there are always some in my rescue box BC if i don't need them someone else might...

I don't like the severe bends in the TRE's clearing the CL...believe they will bend/break there just as easily as a stock TRE when put into any severe offroading application...but good work in figuring it out and hope it works for you...just always carry trail spares

I know mine was throw out...when I took it off the bearing was grinding and hard to turn and had nice buildup of clutch dust inside of it (the oil seals were gone) my pilot bushing didn't show signs of excessive wear... Either way drive it till it gets noticeably worse (vibrations and worse sounds than a grumble...when you change a clutch, you should always change the pilot bushing/bearing and the throw out bearing, along with the rear main seal and i always change my flywheel instead of getting it machined

Not sure about the r50 but on the wd21 the front hooks are fine for recovery. Basically if you aren't sure loom to see if What your trying to pull with connects to the frame or "frame" for unibodys and the size of the fasteners and quantity of them...the Wd21 is like 2 13 mm bolts into the frame in lkne...the shear strength on that is a lot so its a good pulling point. Don't ever pull with suspension parts or axles as this can mess things up...that said I was snatched 4 times pretty hard to get me out with chains around the rear axle BC i had no other points to grab from on my 95 and I got lucky and didn't break or bend anything

I agree that it sounds like a throw out bearing as well...my 95 did it for 2 years in the winter time until I had to change the clutch

Mine aren't capped but if your really worried about it just run a hose between them or get caps...I don't think you would have it fail BC there's no electricity going thru the radiator to increase the corrosion but it wouldn't hurt to cap them...I chose not to

Those are probably the inter cooler for the transmission...about 8mm in diameter? See below

So what are you using to compress the liquid and create flow? The problem is there's no such thing as a 100% efficient system...most cycles are 30-50% efficient...yes geothermal type systems are energy conservers but cannot be used to create more energy than what was there originally. Energy in = energy out...meaning its heat, mechanical power etc and so forth...

I don't think you will hit the pressure or flow #'s...start reading up on thermodynamics and back out the theoretical efficiencies and if its worth the time or $

Alan wrench and a hammer...acts like an impact...that's how I get mine off everytime...

Punisher is what I thought of lol....cool stuff ryan

Its all a matter of who you talk to. Body lift will let you clear bigger tires while moving your center of gravity (CG) up but its only raising the body which is probably 30-40% of the weight of the vehicle...a SL on the other hand lifts all of the sprung weight (80-90% of the vehicle weight) increasing the CG even more... Everyone will have their opinion on the matter...but that's my $.02

I've never replaced them...

At moab a year ago I spent 4 TREs in less than 100'....start with lessening the crank of the tbars...i was shocked that after we dropped them on the trail I didn't drag the diff and had my fenders cut back far enough that the tires didn't rub...but my issues were amplified by bad LCA bushings, bent idler arm, bent Pittman arm, bent/wore out center links, bad lower compression rod bushings and so on and so forth...basically I'm sasing now BC.I can't get my LCA bushings out of the frame...i was out of spares after 4 so a highlift arm was used to bend it back mostly straight....when you break a TRE its LOUD Yea buddy a year ago in 6 days 2500 miles from home in the middle of moab

Krystals truck has bad lifter knock...sea foam helped but didn't fix it which sucks but in time I will rebuild the heads of a JY truck and one weekend swap them...the head job can be done for ~300$ or less if u do all the work yourself...I broke a timing belt and did mine including replacing 3 valves for about $300 and where I got my estimate from

Just some NC and SC folks had it before this carolina kid got it...crazy crap

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44.htm http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html That is all...

I bought a set of wheels/tires with them but havent used them yet but it took quite a bit in all 5 of these...problem I have heard is hitting pot holes and taking a mile or 2 for it to "Rebalance" also slow speeds you can feel them...other then that tire shops hate them

I cracked my doug thorleys in the Eisenhower tunnel in CO on the way to moab....complete loss of torque

I didn't have provisions for one on mine and didn't want ton spend the $ on the brackets 4x4 parts Here is what I did with a stock carrier are