unccpathfinder

Full hydro isn't street legal in most states so be aware if u plan to drive it on highway

They're self trappers...I check mine periodically BC it gets loose over time

So here is me on a 5 gallon bucket after not driving my truck for 1.5 years...its throleys and no y pipe....under high revs flames hit the concrete...don't mind the dough nuts marks in the road, house struck by lightening or the burnout in the driveway lol... http://vid193.photobucket.com/albums/z48/unccpathfinder/Pathfinders/testdrive.mp4 Sounds like poop but I won about $200 in showing folks it had a Nissan 3.0 l under the hood Here's the first crank...my roommate told me fire so That's y there was the freak out...this was first crank with mpfi on my 87 after it sat... hence the couple celebratory hollars...straight pipe again no y pipe http://vid193.photobucket.com/albums/z48/unccpathfinder/Pathfinders/alive2.mp4

I like how my pathy sounds with straight up headers but the torque lost BC of no back pressure sucked....now with cracked headers Its worse...I will hopefully be tigging those back together at work soon....Its a good sounding v6

Sucks man but I understand...my WD has a long time before it sees a trail again...its sitting on jackstands in the garage with no rear suspension and no front axle awaiting 4 link and SAS but between work, family and a new house its gonna be a while Good luck on everything

unccpathfinder... http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z48/unccpathfinder/Gulches%2004-29-2012/DSCN7073.jpg If the gesture is "too obscene" then lets go with this Once again...apologies about size...photo bucket needs to make changing size a part of the address lol

Looks fine to me

I used a sceptre rubber adapter and made it work after broke on the trail...have been running for 2 years without an issue

Going old school on Hatteras ...unccpathfinder

Welcome...born and raised in fayettenam...went to school in clt and now live outside of Augusta ga in sc...welcome

From my experience...worn out lca bushings and other worn components allow for the steering to "toe" and when driving with more than acceptable toe things break...TRE being the weak link...everyone at moab was telling me less gas...I was romping the throttle BC I had cracked headers to keep the truck running but never spun the tires and2 times was just doing a slow crawl but when the susp drooped toe gets worse and it gripped...drove in a bad anglr and pop

Good luck getting the LCA bushing out...mine are coming off when i cut that part of the frame off

Tripped over the d44 again

I'm not a rock racer...slow and technical is my game....just at certain angles without sway bars and full rebound it was always a known...I basically knew if i was going to bend something before I got on the obstacle...but that's just me knowing my truck...other issues contributed but I'm fixing it with a D44 I bent a free TREs while it was my DD but there are always some in my rescue box BC if i don't need them someone else might...

I don't like the severe bends in the TRE's clearing the CL...believe they will bend/break there just as easily as a stock TRE when put into any severe offroading application...but good work in figuring it out and hope it works for you...just always carry trail spares

I know mine was throw out...when I took it off the bearing was grinding and hard to turn and had nice buildup of clutch dust inside of it (the oil seals were gone) my pilot bushing didn't show signs of excessive wear... Either way drive it till it gets noticeably worse (vibrations and worse sounds than a grumble...when you change a clutch, you should always change the pilot bushing/bearing and the throw out bearing, along with the rear main seal and i always change my flywheel instead of getting it machined

Not sure about the r50 but on the wd21 the front hooks are fine for recovery. Basically if you aren't sure loom to see if What your trying to pull with connects to the frame or "frame" for unibodys and the size of the fasteners and quantity of them...the Wd21 is like 2 13 mm bolts into the frame in lkne...the shear strength on that is a lot so its a good pulling point. Don't ever pull with suspension parts or axles as this can mess things up...that said I was snatched 4 times pretty hard to get me out with chains around the rear axle BC i had no other points to grab from on my 95 and I got lucky and didn't break or bend anything

I agree that it sounds like a throw out bearing as well...my 95 did it for 2 years in the winter time until I had to change the clutch

Mine aren't capped but if your really worried about it just run a hose between them or get caps...I don't think you would have it fail BC there's no electricity going thru the radiator to increase the corrosion but it wouldn't hurt to cap them...I chose not to

Those are probably the inter cooler for the transmission...about 8mm in diameter? See below

So what are you using to compress the liquid and create flow? The problem is there's no such thing as a 100% efficient system...most cycles are 30-50% efficient...yes geothermal type systems are energy conservers but cannot be used to create more energy than what was there originally. Energy in = energy out...meaning its heat, mechanical power etc and so forth...

I don't think you will hit the pressure or flow #'s...start reading up on thermodynamics and back out the theoretical efficiencies and if its worth the time or $

Alan wrench and a hammer...acts like an impact...that's how I get mine off everytime...

Punisher is what I thought of lol....cool stuff ryan

Its all a matter of who you talk to. Body lift will let you clear bigger tires while moving your center of gravity (CG) up but its only raising the body which is probably 30-40% of the weight of the vehicle...a SL on the other hand lifts all of the sprung weight (80-90% of the vehicle weight) increasing the CG even more... Everyone will have their opinion on the matter...but that's my $.02