unccpathfinder

Grade 5 or 8.8 is fine for manifold bolts as long as they don't "shear" (fail in tension)

So whose done it...I'm doing the quickcrete...etched it tonight but holy @!*% I scrubbed the oil stains from the previous owner but I swear he dumped all his used oil on the floor or his lawnmower and both cars leaked a quart a week on the floor...stains lightened up a bunch but still visible So...I hope it sticks good...gonna do grey without flakes then clear coat it and hope for a showroom shine So anyone else used it and if so hows it holding up? I didn't get pix of the before but before coating tomorrow I plan to take pix...share uses if u got them

Pictures didn't post...drums are easy...just like any other vehicle...if u can't get them loose by tapping them with a dead blow u will see 2 tapped holes...think its like an m8 (whatever the body panel bolts are) that u can use to press the drum off the shoes

That's cool...never really thought about a scaler on that scale...looks good

And yes what ole blue said...if Its not every time it could be there is a bad spot in the solenoid...getting the starter tested won't necessarily show this problem. Eventually the bad spot gets bigger and the starter won't work...starter test just tests the starter not the solenoid

Its a pretty basic principle...I was intimidated by relays for a while until I got one and figured it out...basically the relay u need has 4 posts (poles)...what I did is looked at the schematic and got 4 pieces of wire and a relay...I ran 1 wire down to the starter and had my relay and other pieces of wire up at the battery... 1 wire goes to the + terminal of the battery and then to 1 of the poles on the relay (if u post a pic of the relay it will have pole #s on it and we could tell u What wire to go where) the pole th..at coorelatss to that is typically across the relay and it will go to ground but typically the ground is hooked up and the positive has a switch BC when these are closed it causes the relay to engage...one of the other relay poles will follow to 12v+ on battery and the other to the starter solinoid...so basically now when u connect the original + it will close the relay and tell the solenoid to turn the starter over...before u do any of this make sure the vehicle is in Park or neutral BC if its in gear it will roll...once you get the poles figured out u can mount the relay in the fender well and basically run back to the key switch or put a momentary switch in at the dash...mine is push button start right now... Now with all of this don't worry the truck won't start unless the key is turned over to position 3 BC its not getting furl by bypassing the starter I watched a few mins of this and its pretty good http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=US#/watch?v=Mru8BbTGDwM

New switch panel drivers side should fix it...or maybe one of the others..iirc they are all in series so one bad will cause problems

I hate ABS....I've got to bypass it on my Tacoma but want to figure out how to trick the wiring so I don't get theABS light on all the time...I learned how to drive without ABS and ABS has almost fskced me several times...when I did the 95 swap the rear ABS module was left off intentionally...if u know how to drive u can actually stop faster without ABS than with it. Especially on wet or snowy roads

350 swap cheaper easier faster? I'm just kidding...good @!*% man...I'm looking to do some engine upgrades down the road...so this whole project could be useful...before swapping from tbi to mpfi I wanted to throw the Eaton m90 on...there has been thoughts to do nistune with the 3.3 SC but this just throws more into the mix...keep the updates coming

I think a few folks have...maybe my1path or nunya

A rotary cutoff wheel makes nice trims...I had issues with my sawsall bending the fenders up...I never said u couldn't run 33s on a stock truck...I said you can't run 33s on a stock truck without modifying something or rubbing... I'm def over cranked tbars and wearing out IFS components...saving for the SAS and 37's

Forward one is amp...oj Passenger side right above the harness laying in air

Yes should be on passenger side kick plate...panel by passengers right foot...the other is in the rear right hand side near the auto trans controller if u have an AT

Grant the t bars a touch or adjust the bump stop...make sure u get an alignment if u adjust the tbars...or do what I didn't on my 87 and learn where the rub and don't rub... Glad u picked the 31s over 33s BC the 33s would have been worse

Just don't see how u clear the rear fender and front of the fender unless u r cranked to the stops and even then u will rub something at sometime...unless you trim...id be interested in seeing pics of ure wheels cut at the rear and front BC i know with 31s on a stock 95 and adjusted tbars they hit the front valence and bumper and over speed bumps I could grab fender depending on the bump and my speed... 31s are your safest bet to fit with no issues...and take it from me u keep evettything stock and crank tbars and the front end will be a nightmare in time..and at that point start upgrading early BC the cost of replacement parts will kill u sooner or later

Yea like I said...I figured u had it right but the picture is deceiving...I have dealt with things that people didn't look in the open and close or in and out position so its great in one position but not abother...one was locking an oil filter b place and making it non removable....or one of my heat shields I designed straight out of school and it couldn't be installed after market...it happens

I've damaged almost everything on my pathy except the fuel tank so that's y I say its prob about the safest place...other than inside the cab...def mounted where the HB is I would have ripped it open on the trail

If its cyclic and a slight click check the shims on ure brake pads...if they r cheap pads the glue melts and the shim will hit the hub

Replace the tach in the dash...or full gage cluster...my gfs before I swapped over a new cluster (put her speedometers/odor in the new cluster)

Hey ryan...u gonna crash into anything above the links/truss...pic may be deceiving but it looks like with some articulation it may hit the floor or that rear x member but maybe not...I know this won't be as extreme as the hb but figured it'd be worth mentioning

This truck was abused before I got it...the windows is cracked and the trees went down the entire roof Its got new fenders, bumpers, passenger side door...hope to weld in a rear quarter panel this summer Now

Crank pulley can be a but aggravating to get off as an FYI

I just drive it hard...no sway bars...I put 2" wheel spacers to clear fenders. I lift front tire when I turn sometimes according to different folks that have rode behind me...I just don't see 33's on stock not ever rubbing...like I said the gfs is on 33s and the tbars r cranked and I had to trim the front fenders and the body was already beat back by the tires before I got it ... 95 w/ 33 X 12.50s with spring spacers in the rear and cranked t bars This is what they looked like when we got the truck but he wheeled it hard New fenders before 3" body lift Now w/3" bl:

One of the rubber ones came out while cornering...knew exactly what it was...the metal ones were still on the springs when I tossed them...they sale these things at advance and autozone...its like their ricer wheel spacers....don't do it

Tank is in the safest place where its at IMO...just weld a Jerry can holder to the stock carrier...spares under the vehicle will hang too low if wheeling and if ure stuck and need the tire...it'll be pretty difficult to get out from under the vehicle