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unccpathfinder

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Everything posted by unccpathfinder

  1. At moab a year ago I spent 4 TREs in less than 100'....start with lessening the crank of the tbars...i was shocked that after we dropped them on the trail I didn't drag the diff and had my fenders cut back far enough that the tires didn't rub...but my issues were amplified by bad LCA bushings, bent idler arm, bent Pittman arm, bent/wore out center links, bad lower compression rod bushings and so on and so forth...basically I'm sasing now BC.I can't get my LCA bushings out of the frame...i was out of spares after 4 so a highlift arm was used to bend it back mostly straight....when you break a TRE its LOUD Yea buddy a year ago in 6 days 2500 miles from home in the middle of moab
  2. Krystals truck has bad lifter knock...sea foam helped but didn't fix it which sucks but in time I will rebuild the heads of a JY truck and one weekend swap them...the head job can be done for ~300$ or less if u do all the work yourself...I broke a timing belt and did mine including replacing 3 valves for about $300 and where I got my estimate from
  3. Just some NC and SC folks had it before this carolina kid got it...crazy crap
  4. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44.htm http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html That is all...
  5. I bought a set of wheels/tires with them but havent used them yet but it took quite a bit in all 5 of these...problem I have heard is hitting pot holes and taking a mile or 2 for it to "Rebalance" also slow speeds you can feel them...other then that tire shops hate them
  6. I cracked my doug thorleys in the Eisenhower tunnel in CO on the way to moab....complete loss of torque
  7. I didn't have provisions for one on mine and didn't want ton spend the $ on the brackets 4x4 parts Here is what I did with a stock carrier are
  8. I have been advised against leafs to stuff 35s and against keeping my 3" BL with my coil over...I'm going to keep the 3" bl and try to make 35-37s work with a SAS but less sprung weight lift and use the BL to clear tires but we shall see over The next 12 months
  9. Inside or outside? Most people find junk yard or build an after market one
  10. Id get that skid plate back on...but that's just me and the way I wheel its a requirement...
  11. If you're interested in traveling or shipping your truck hit up Carolina Truggies...they do good work from what I've seen...I met Alex at autofair with about 8 of their rigs...I know I've been costing mine out and to do it myslef and is gonna be about 3-4k... Steevo at Rugged Rocks Offroad is working on a SAS kit for WD21s and is also a good point of contact for parts
  12. Not bad if they fit and if that's for a set of 2...I don't have any experience other than mine rusting bulbs in
  13. It kinda sucks to fish out from behind the skid plate...can u rotate it forward and tie it up that way?
  14. I drove from CA to SC and from SC to UT with a trailer and it wasn't the worst without any sway bars but not recommended
  15. I've started my SAS...I haven't planned too much other than a couple brackets I'm cutting off for sure (leaving some that I may want to modify instead of cutting off completely) I have my axle which I have started disassembling so i can cut the putter C's and fix my caster angle once I determine my pinion angle...I have ruled out leafs and am probably doing a 5 link up front (some variation of JK, TJ or YJ) and plan to do the RROR 4 link kit in the rear but I'm on a 6-12 month plan to get 2wd working...I expect this SAS to cost about $4k by the time I'm all said ajd done including my rear springs, 4.88 gears, driveahafts etc so far I'm $200 in so far including gas to go get my axle and its got a of work to go
  16. I honestly don't think the disconnects would help offroad...we wheeled the gfs truck this weekend and I didn't really see any difference except we didn't break anything on hers and I usually waste a TRE or 3 on mine...yes you get more travel but I think it stresses the suspension out more and leaves you breaking stuff
  17. Depends on what type of driver you are...I've had front sway bars off of my truck for 3+ years...I can drive it but it scares the @!*% out of people who rode with me...I've heard from folks behind me that I would lift a front tire off the ground...I wore out a lot of suspension components and broke a lot of stuff...all for no real advantage...id leave the front on and the back off...just took the gfs rear off and she realized a slight difference but said it was an improvement for her
  18. IMO if you can get the harness and ecu out of the frontier then id swap that into the pathfinder. Also you need to investigate what suspension you will run along with what transfer case and gears you will run There is lots of stuff in the hardcore mod section...I would expect a SAS, 4.88 or higher gears, some form of doubler and probably some rear suspension geometry changes... All the above is under the impression this will be wheeled and not a street truck
  19. I had some clutch chatter with my centerforce it was really bad in 1st...I haven't noticed it in a while and I won't drive my truck again for a long time...I pulled all the IFS out...my clutch got 120 highway miles on it and I let the blue smoke roll on a trail...and have had it hot/smoking a couple of other times and I haven't had any more issues...this also includes an 1800 mile drive to moab thru the Eisenhower tunnel (forget the pass name) pulling a heavy ass trailer The chatter has all but gone away...sometimes I got it on a cold morning in 1st gear until it warmed up....my 2008 Tacoma has the same issues in the winter as well
  20. Hopefully we can get a template made and material this weekend...only tricky thing will be the snaps...we repaired a battery cable tonight and have to figure out how to uncoordinated her AC drain BC i cleaned it once and its still dumping ice cold water on the floorboard when pitched or off camber while off road... as soon as we do if it turns out good will def post up pix
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