unccpathfinder

hmm...well theres the problem...i work 70 miles away from 8-5 and sadly its my only mobile vehicle at the moment...i am calling the guy tomorrow he charges based on chiltons hrs...if its not too expensive i'll just see if i can borrow 1 of my roommates cars for a day or so... im almost to the point of selling my trailduster and scout getting an altima and keeping the 87 and 95 as my toys...

i've just got dont reviewing the FSM and it seems like i would need some sort of press and need to make a locknut tool to remove the rear bearings...are these assumptions corrrect and if so can it be done any other way? i dont have a press or anything...or should i just drop the $ and take it over to a shop and let them worry with it... the RR is nasty sloppy (jacking it up you can hear the bearings moving around in the races)

changed my spindles (because i knew the races and bearings were good and was a lot easier to change), upper and lower ball joints and almost all of my shake in the steering wheel is gone at highway speeds... but further checking my rear wheel bearings are bad too and i still get pretty bad shakes coming from the rear but still comes up thru the shifter, seats and all of that stuff... chock the wheels, check that all lugs are tight and jack it up and push back and forth on the wheel (top and bottom of the fronts) if u get movement you more than likely have a wheel bearing bad... also check what others have listed...

trade my 95 for ure vw... ...no seriously im in a delima myself...sell the 95 and get (prob an 06 or 07 altima or tacoma) but i really need good gas milage over the 4x4 since i still have the 87...if i ever get my xmember back...

ohh...ok i thought that was the only way to do it well logically...my gage is fubared and does all kinds of goofy things...i try to fill up with the same pump at this same station everytime so i believe my records are pretty accurate for my truck

yes this is a pain without a tranny jack...after my clutch job this past week im down to using 2 floor jacks and an engine hoist thru the floor... glad to hear you didnt kill the engine with the dropped bolt...1 small metal bit killed mine on a sparkplug change when it fell into the cylinder and instead of blowing out of the exhaust it welded to the head... but congrats and bet your glad thats over....

the tank to tank odo...runs off the same gears as the life odo...with minimal losses its accurate enough...but i would like to see the differences you've recorded between the 2 but from what i read u only track the overall odo not the trip to trip...im sure the factor of error there is less than 5%...unless your saying you have to keep a log over time to find the avg milage your getting...in otherwards kindof the same thing i do...i know if i drive a certain speed i get a certain milage...but if not then i get something different...but we have a different control volume...

i had this happen 1 time...i started getting 16 mpg instead of the 18-19 i usually get...and my low fuel light didnt work this one time so i wound up 16 miles short of work out of gas... i know if i drive on I-85 (65-80 mph) i get on avg 18 mpg...if i drive 55-60 i get right at 20-21

sweet...got it finished up in right about 18 hrs i was figuring that the pressure plate material had a different stiffness causing it esp after i saw the action of the slave cylinder was normal... now im thinking the flywheel has a wrong pitch or something...it makes some bad noises as it fires up but i'll get on it sometime soon...but so far so good she's running great...

just replaced the OEM clutch in my 95 and the clutch seems to be about 1/2 as stiff...is there a diff in the oem and replacement or is this just normal...i know my 87 droppedl ike this with no problems iwth its new clutch...didnt know if the forks were diff or what....

i put a 18 in breaker bar and wack the hell out of it with a hammer....its kinda like a poo mans impact...but way better....

dont force anything...they're a couple of hidden screws when you do it... i took 2 doors apart and it was pretty easy just have to take time and be careful...

mines been whining on me for a year now...its only for like 3-5 secs every now and then if its not that frequent i wouldnt worry about it.... (this might be looked as bad advice but i dont think till its all the time i would worry with it...thats a lot of work for just the bearing)

throw out bearing...my 95 does it on cold mornings if i release the clutch slowly and u can feel it through the clutch pedal

yea 88's way is much better IMO...i've got my 87 set up so u have to turn the key to pos 3 then hit the toggle that runs to the relay to the starter...i think i am going to add another bump switch somewhere hidden so you have to hit both to start but if some1 wants it bad enough and figure out which of the 3 toggles is the ign they could follow the wires to the other switch and then just pull them out and bump them as if they were hotwiring it normally

on both the auto engine out of the maxima and out of wheelmans 95 auto i did not ever find this adaptor...just beat the pilot bushing in... for the timing belt cover...IIRC the 2wd truck is the same as the maxima...and when i built up the maxima engene i just used the same TB cover that it had just switched over from the short neck wp to the long neck wp (i know it was a hb i cant remember if it was 2wd or 4 im pretty sure it was 2wd tho)...and that way if for some reason you have a wp go bad right after a tb change u can pull it out of the middle of the belt with out effin with the belt...

babied her to and from work today...going 50 in a 60 and 55 in a 65...the bearings didnt get near as hot but i jacked it up when i got home and the RH side only goes for like 3/4 a turn and makes nice scrubbing/squeeling noises (they were 115F not near the other night i could actually hold my hand on it still but the driver side was only 90F so theres def evidence that i have an issue) and for @!*%s and giggles i jacked up the back b/c i have a vibration back tehre as well and the RH side bearings sound/feel nasty loose from my experiences with wheelman and my 87 truck i cannot find outter bearings that will slip over the spindles...we have napa, advance auto, and autozone here does any1 have a part number that fits (a side note i wont be driving her anymore this week a guy from work was nice enough to drive up 14 exits and pick me up and drop me back off for the remainder of the week (tomorrow and thurs)

and the hubs... yea i was thinking about renting a car...b/c i was guessing in a complete failure i would have a roll over...

ok did the ball joints undo the top then the lower...and back together in the opposite order...had some issues but they got resolved due to my extra parts bin... drove sweet yest afternoon and this morning with some shake (tires and what not b/c i didnt get that balanced) but tonight was a different story vibrated worse than ever before and once i got home the RH side hub was scortching hot and the driver side was normal i have a feeling since i only repacked my wheelbearings instead of replacing (they were prob bad after the looseness in the wheels) i think that 1 is starting to go completly... i've only got 3 more days of work (420 miles) do u guys think they will hold up till then so i can replace them...im going to try to catch a ride with a guy from work that makes the same commute but he ususally doesnt let people ride with him...

yep...$300 would be a reasonable price for the time it will take...you could do it in an afternoon or so with the correct tools as 88 stated...theres somewhere on here about making the spindle locknut tool...it involves the dremil or a bench grinder (or could be done with a saw and a file but that would be tough)... i would possibly do rotors and pads if they are questionable while your in there

i donno for sure but i would def compare the pickup...i would think the 4wd pan is deeper which would mean the pickup tube should be deeper...i doubt they used the same 1 if they did i would think they would have just used the same pans for both to have cost savings...a side note...i'd do rear main seal while i was in there

disconnect the battery overnight?

^ and i think its only like the front 1 or 2 screws up front...as i said i put 95s on my 87 and most were just the sandwich clips (plastic puts the metal in the middle and the screws pull the plastic around the metal so its plastic metal plastic)...i know the far fronts if u use self tappers or drill and use nuts and bolts it will hold it good...

y would bead locks be illegal...that doesnt make sense to me...if u go flat and still have rubber on the rim whats the danger?...

well the good thing about sand is if ure in a rut that leads out and u go really really easy u can get to asphault or hard pack jack it up and use various different techniques to re inflate the tire or put on the spare...