unccpathfinder

finally had time to check her out...the timing was way outta wack...the cams must have rolled over when i tightened the rockers and not noticed it...she cranked up and purred like a kitten...with the exception of a lifter ticking a lil bit... now i just need to verify the timing

nope just a southern kid that hated cleaning up magnoila leaves...

on my 95 theres 1 inline right behind the battery...but i think its going to be more than a fuse...mine blows as soon as i hit the light and havent gone searching yet...

add a full size spare...after seeing how much it saved...or lack there of for wheelmans pathy i wouldnt recomend removing it... he got rear ended and it barely dented up the rear hatch and the bumper...and never broke the back glass or anything like that still opened and closed...but it was totaled where he was pushed into the pathy in front of him (guy was in a f 150 or 250 and doing about 45)...if no1 would have been in front of him it would have saved it...lemmie see if i can find pix... u can kidna see the back here... and the front yes it would have been fixable but the insur totaled it and he made more $ selling parts... but i think it would have been a lot lot worse without the carrier

hey she looks good...u can run 31's stock might rub the frame at full turn a lil bit...but a BL would be cool...after i finish ironing out all my swap issues i plan to add some BL on top of my SL... welcome and where abouts are u from...looks like the south land cuze the grass and trees are still green...and the magnolia tree hasnt started making a mess yet...or thats an older pic..anyways welcome

i replied in the ohter post the oldest was a 95 but i'll PM its pretty much the same from 87 till 95 and on most other vehicles just a lil diff here and there

i broke my warn studs...i got some grade 8 hex heads from NAPA and put some thread lock and torqued them... i dont remember what size tho...

yea those are bad... mine looks kinda like this but not as beefy this is a GM and the FSM was for a 95 and newer but its the same deal...i'll send it if ure interested?

i always pull the intake...well used to till i did it on the EFI...it makes it a lot easier if ure alone and u get the spring tension off of the rockers...check PMs im not sure what year ure rig is but if its newer than like 93 i think i have it for ya

use a harmonic balancer puller...looks like a chicken foot and u put 3 6mm? bolts thru it with washers and tighten it down and it presses it off after you have remove the crank bolt...

mine will run on below E for about 120 miles b4 the light comes on...it drops to the e after about 160 miles of driving and sits for a while then drops below e then finally the light will come on and off then it'll stay on

bronco or bronco II...i had my bronco II for 5 days B4 it got totaled...then i got my pathy... so it all worked out in the end... if i think of something i'll let u know... ECU i dont care if its bad i need it for an experiment...

yea i'd go with something that has the warranty and u know its the right parts and a quality part...

or throw an Eaton M90 on it...if u have access to a shop i think its easy to do...i started looking into it for a senior project then some1 out bid me on the SC and lost intrest...then my truck broke so i said screw it...plus i believe thats what L&P used?

i calculate my gas milage everytime i fill up (about 3 times a week) and i have calculated it up and i get about 45 after the light comes on...but it'll come off and on sometimes so i dont try to push it...last time i pushed it i had figured up in my head that i was going to be .5 miles from making it to the gas station by work and stopped 1.5 miles before hand and with rounding errors i had about 8 miles left (~.5 gals)

glad to hear ya got it out...i got lucky and used to do a lot of wheeling alone and was lucky to never get stuck where i couldnt get out... i've had many friends call me asking to come and pull them out...one was right after i told them not to go out and it was pouring rain (and had been for a while) and they have never been back there and it was about 10 PM at night...they walked to my house and grabbed my come along tied it to a tree and his bro worked for 2 hrs trying to pull him (in a jeep cherokee) out with his bronco till he got stuck...then they spent a couple hrs getting that 1 out and went back the next day after it quit raining and spent about 4 hrs getting him pulled out...the floorboards got flooded and the mud sucked his exhaust off when they finally snatched it out...then the bastard kept my comealong for about 6 months and i needed it but luckly i rocked back forth enough to get out...

hmm air down the tires turn side to side and keep on spinnin thru 3rd or 4th gear...keep tryin to rock back and forth...i'd dig around and try to remove any of the sticks and what not to reduce slashing a tire but from the pics with enoug hell i think you can get out... also a sheet of plywood/floormats or something like that will lay over the mud and can possibly give more grip...this is fairly unsafe but u can place some boards on the ground and jack the truck up to place wood under the wheels for tracktion but be very careful and dont be under the truck at all while its up like that...

hats off to you for the design...hope you patented it before leaking the pix out everywhere...if not some1 will steal it from u and u will end up screwed and owing them $... i would be interested to see some duribility testing ...and that would bring me to another topic...having the calcs for all of that to prove that its road worthy FMVSS might have some standards for selling something like that but i dont know for sure...if the price was right and all of the documentation was presented i would possibly give it a try but i dont see the cost being less than about $2k-3k

dude i envy u...ure garage is huge...well prob the same size as mine but i gotta scout sittin there...looks like ure having fun...hope you have better luck than i have...everytime i think i have her back road worthy either something breaks or i mess something up...if i can correct the timing this sat (and that is 100% the issue) then i will be finishing the susp and gages and going for a ride...

check your PMs...u have a surprise

12mm is correct... loosen the top 2 bolts on the alt...loosen the 1 on the bottom front of the alt then run down the tensioner screw get the belt over the fan and on then tighten the tension bolt and the other 3 and ure done...

k just got time to go and mess with her some...my issue is timing i played with it and got her to run smooth and not have any issues on being sluggish...but the timing marks on the crank pully doesnt match where its suppossed to so i think the guys that did it the 1st time did what i did the 1st time i pulled 1 off and took all those bolts out and didnt know about the timing marks? b/c its somewhere along the lines of 180 degrees off and i was on #1...i also found that those plug wires were still kinda loose...so now at least im 100% sure that i didnt crash any valves (was pretty sure of that yest but after she ran like crap i started double guessing myself... so i gotta spend time with the gf today (clean up our cars and watch some football) so i will have to get after this issue next weekend... ohh yea damn it hurts when u jump an arch from the dist to ure hand...

yea casey i am going to do that this am...i pulled it to pull the last screw on the valve cover so i could loosen up the rocker arms...i've done t belts without loosening those up and it makes it pretty tough to get the belt back on alone... i pulled the dist when #1 was at TDC and then i might have accicently shifted the cams/crank before putting it back in... pulled the intake to pull the driver side valve cover...

yea all of that stuff was good and 100% sure of that the only thing i can think of is i didnt have #1 at TDC when i pulled the dist out...so i need to check that again but all 6 header pipes were blazing hot so im sure i was having exhaust...

i've done this a time or 2 before and never had any issues...today i did the timing belt cam seals and water pump...when i cranked it up it was coughing and not wanting to start up so i adjusted the dist. and then she cranked up and idled fine but if i hit the gas it was like it was flooding out... my initial gueses are that when i put the intake back on i missed a vaccum line, i somehow mis aligned the dist. when i as putting it back in when i was reinstalling the valve covers...im beat b/c i had to pretty much change my roommates brake booster for him cuze he doesnt know tricks to get things to work...so i want to know whats wrong with it but i just cant physically do it right now...and im sure i the cams and crank were all lined up and i counted teeth and all that but damn this sucks.... hmm just remembered i didnt tension the accel cable would this affect it? ideas... thank god my neighbors are having a 2 kegger tonight cuze imma guzzle me a bunch down.... -alcohol-