unccpathfinder

i donno that thats oil slick...antifreeze makes a pretty big mess as it falls and evaporates it gets pretty greasy/gooey and turns blackish

my 87 when it had TBI and i believe my 95 does it but not as bad...but on cold mornings it has a warm up type code in the ecu or possibly something with that warm up flapper on the TBI engines (coming from a couple of mechanics i've talked to) i would crank up and idle at about 2500...and if i drove a lil bit and pulled up to a light shed go up and donw between 1500 and 2500 and then either i drove or it reached operating temp and it would drop back off to my 700 regular idle... so if its doing what mine was/still do i believe thats normal...i'll find out in the AM if my 95 does it b/c its going to be kinda chilly and doesnt nissan take a punch and hit the throttle adjustment screw so it cant be adjusted or should i say "shouldnt be adjusted" but i could be mistaken

no problem... check the sockets as well with a multi meter i just had an issue where the bulbs were not seating all the way...but as the others said change out the flasher and check the wiring...u also might want to check the rust/corrosion in the sockets and on the wires esp up there in the salty roads land also to diagnose my splicing job that somehow got botched i took the left turn signal loose (my working 1) and plugged it into the right side to nix out the actual burn signal assembly

hmm interesting.... i have steel wheels so that shouldnt be an issue and they're on their 3rd coat of krylon by me...now the drum issue is of some concern but if i managed to find the time/money to do a disk conversion then i shouldnt have to worry about that... thanks for the input i'll make note of that...

sweet well def give me a shout i'd like to get some camping/riding in b4 the cold season gets here.... im falling way behind schedule on my truck today a couple of tractor trailers and about 4 cars got tangled up on 85 and by the time i got on 77 and down harris to back track back to my house it was 7 15 so needless (oh yea i stopped at northern tool to pick up my high lift too) to say i didnt get any work done today...but im going to bust ass this weekend and try to get her completly done i'd like to change the T belt too but i dont know if i have the time...grrr i really wanna have her rockin and rollin... will AAA come pick her up from the campground and haul me back to charlotte if something did go wrong?...i've been meaning to sign up for it since im traveling 140 miles a day and just havent gotten around to it yet

just did this tonight sorta...my reverse switch is busted so im just going to throw a switch on the dash so i can hit it for seeing behind me while backing...use as reverse lights when needed...and of course angled upwards to blind the common tailgater on my way to/from work esp since its soon going to be dark when i get to work and dark when i leave 2nd fuse box...that sounds good...i mainly jump off of a fuse in my existing panel instead of running an inline from the battery...i might make 2 smaller 1's 1 in the rear for lights and what not back there and 1 up front for all the auxillary crap up front so i dont have to run wires all over the place

i know this was against ure idea but....weld a piece of 3 in square tubing on the bottom of the carrier with a hole for the pin...build a grill on like piece of square tubing that will slide in the reciever thats the length of the existing carier...bend up at the end...weld a boat seat swivel with holes and a smaller pin so u could slide the grill in and swivel it to fit while traveling and while ure cooking u could swing the carrier out pull the extension out and swivel the grill around and that woudl give u prob 6' from the truck and that should be plenty of room for heat... u could also weld on a j bracket to hand a 20 lb cylinder on while in cook mode and for ure hitch u must install a bumper dumper

Please dont move to trail run events...i know thats where it should go but most people never check down there... but i want to see if any1 is heading that way from around charlotte...if so i am planning on either going friday night leaving here about 6 30 or so or getting up early sat morning and making the journey...but if some1 is going from this area i'd like to possibly meet up and ride together since this will be the 1st trip and prob most of the break in to the 95 swap and i would really hate to break down in BFE (not that i expect that to happen) i originally wanted to get 500 miles on her but its not looking like that is going to happen b/c the earlies i can get the title changed over is this sat and i still have some work to get done...im going to try my damndest to get those miles on her but i would still feel more comfortable with having a trip buddy

theres some stuff on AC...i just dropped a 95 into an 87 but i did the entire wiring harness as well...i've heard of folks doing it that way but IMO it's a lot easier to rip it all out put the whole harness in and be done with it (but thats cuze i had it available and after comparing the 95 diagram to my 87 i found it easier to swap the whole thing but the 89 might be a lot closer) but like i said in the swap section on AC they'res some good info just takes some searching depending on the options in ure hatch it might hook up...i know i did some splicing b/c they changed a lot of connectors but a lot stayed the same but the wires had the same colors... i know everything on my steering column was the same, the heater and all the ac pull cables are the same and the resistor too and all that crap was the same, the stereo didnt matter to me b/c i have that hard wired in...the fuel pump was the same... the gages ran straight down to the fuse block after splitting to the vent on the driver side that controlled cruise and something for the AT....the gages between 87 and 85 were completly different i went auto harness to manual and just shorted (twisted together so they're always on) the inhibitors and run the auto ecu to the best of my knowledge the ecu just sees the accelerator being pushed and thinks the truck is always in park which isolates it from the transmission action hope some of that helps

Chuckster is trying to sell a jim conner racing lift...i am trying to save the $ for it but havent been very successful as of yet...i did some searching and it seems like they mainly used it on an 86 HB for their events

a big ole pine tree...or wait...do yall have those out there?

hmm mine is the other way around...i can open the glass but not the lock for the hatch...so i have to open the glass and reach in ( i have the back panel off) and manually push the lock down to get the door to open u might want to have a look at your lock mechanisms they might be outta wack and i donno if u can adjust them....

sounds like we have opposite problems...im trying to get my mechaical speedo to work with the electronic gages...but im in the middle of hacking my old and new gages to make them work...but now i realised i need to do some drilling in the steering column support to get the cable to line up so its going to be interesting but i hope i can get it to work...the main reason im doing it is the electrical gage got trashed when i was pulling it apart to inspect them... its not hard to take the gages apart and figure out the wiring differences it might be easier to swap in the eletrical gage to u're cluster

that doesnt look too bad...i think that is repairable ureself if u have the time patients and mechanical skills...

sweet well glad ya got it running...i know mine started runnin like crap and i replaced the cap and nothing was better after i had done the plugs and wires then i did the rotor and it was all better... hope she stays healthy for a while

i have manifolds and a flowmaster 40 (i think my cuz put it on not me) on it with stock cats...shes not loud at all...not loud enough to drown out my radio... now my 87 has straight thorleys and i think that would be defening at 65 +...its pretty loud at 5-10 mph

mine are were like that when i did the swap and 1 of the 2 fell out while i was dragging the whole crossemeber and both t bars across the driveway to throw in the garage...i guess after slinging them around in the garage 1 finally came loose as i was dragging it back out to install them...

if i do it i'll prob make my own and i figured i'd loose some pick but for some reason i always have these lil rice waggons and sometimes mustangs rev up at me at lights...it be nice to pop it open and blast their ears...hmm we'll see

cant think of anything....i know my original engine was tough against water...i do believe she ate some mud/water at 1 time but thankfully it wasnt enough to break anything...it used to always studder a lil bit after running thru lots of water and i know it was getting my cap wet.... did u check all the tabs to make sure it all looks good and not worn out....also if u possibly pulled a plugwire out u didnt break any of the wires b/c i know everytime i pull a wire almost it breaks the wire inside the boot... possibly the ignition coil has a bad seal and got wet on the inside?

i like the way she sounds strait piped right now...and i've got a buncha friends that are into camaro's and trans-ams and they all have forbiden me to put exhaust back on it(god my neighbors loved me the other night when 1 of the neighbors on a bike wanted to out rev my truck...he lost walked over and goes what the hell is in that thing i was like uhh genuine rice)...so im thinking about the possiblilty of running cutous...the question is how i want to do it... i thought about dual down both sides with some rock sliders and make it look something like the mustangs that run it down the sides and dump out in front of the rear tires but i think thats a lot of bending and work...

hmm im going to be looking into this soon as well...the 95 in 87 swap means the grey dash doesnt really match the blue panels...so im thinking of possibly leaving the bottom of all my panels blue and making the lighter shade a grey to match the dash..but i will prob photo shop to see if it will look worth a damn 1st them go for it.. take good notes and let us know how it works what u did/used and if it was a PITA to deal with...i've heard stories and seen 1st hand painting plastic with something other than a for plastic paint...it started melting and it wasnt good

alrighty...sounds good...yea i was def thinking of unplugging everything important...i just know i was talking to a buncha guys about welding on T tops and what not on nice boats and most of them at one pt or another fried their radios b/c of the antena still being hooked in and/or the ground

i've rarely done any welding but im fixing to weld some stuff on my 95 in the cab area...my question is mainly how does this effect the electrical system...i know u can easily fry marine equipment by welding on a boat if it is grounded to whatever ure welding to... so is this the case on cars...do i need to unhook eveyrthing or what...i really dont want to toast anything esp the ecu

theres also inner and outter seals...as well as bearings...i just changed outters when i did mine and it knocked the leak back a lot but it still leaks a lil...also any of the above could be true... and a buddy of mine had a bent axle shaft...we have no idea how it happened or when it happened or if he even did it (he didnt go offroad except on the beach) but in 3 years we replaced both 3 times and finally pulled the shaft and spun it and u could see it was out of round...changed it and it never leaked again

plug wires tight...if not did the plug rust overnight...check rotor/cap for being dry...also air filter like said above...also i would check all electrical connections if that isnt the case as well as relays...with pressure that high and depending on how close u got u could have knocked something loose...i always use purple power and the water hose....