unccpathfinder

try replacing the relay? maybe it has some corrosion on the inside or something causing it to hang up and not engage

ohh yea...well theres the updated pictures of today...somethings not quite right...the dash didnt go in perfectly so the glove box has a gap on the right hand side so im going to have to work on that tomorrow...i managed to crack the glass on the guage cluster so i've got to some how replace that but i just removed it since it broke... but im going to try and get it all finshed up tomorrow so i can go for a spin around the block...i think im going to keep it nascar style for a while (drivers seat only)

but its going to look a lot better this weekend

ohh man...i wish i would have seen this earlier...i have dunlop mud rovers on my 87 great tires very quiet clear awsome in the mud and have great grip on the roads even in the rain (which they were rated poor as) the AT's IMO suck they dont clear mud (at least NC clay/mud) and they dont have very good traction on the road but i hope u enjoy them more than i have

sweet u 2...i race like 100 of those a day on the way to and from work... i've had so many cars rev up at me and im like uhh im in a SUV...ure in a car power to weight u have me even if i had the same power u had... although i ripped a camaro a new 1 1 night...he reved up at me and i look over and he wouldnt look back so for @!*%s and giggles i reved back...light changed i dumped the clutch and he stalled out....the next light he didnt even pull up next to me he stopped 1 full car length back...god i wish i would have had that on tape... but i'll race any 2 dr wd21 now (well in a week or 2)

hmm my older trucks...when it goes out i slap the dash and it comes back on : they're getting good at hiding screws and what not to remove things so be careful if u go to pulling things apart...

ehh...u might not be too screwed... thats not true...i did the same thing...after the cams stop spinning u cant $#&% anything else up...u prob bent some valves...depending on ure speed if ure manual or auto and ure reaction...i broke a belt doing like 55 and hit the clutch as soon as it died and i bent 3 valves...pulled the heads replaced the valves and gaskets put it all back together put it in time and ran like a champ... if i were u and mechanically incline i would pull the heads if the pistons dont have any cracks or not shattered i'd rebuild the heads and put it back together...and then either sell it or keep on trucking... with my truck i kept on trucking until i changed the plugs 50k later and something fell in the cylinder and i hammered out a rod bearing (i think but not verified) but i did have a chunk of metal welded to the piston... if ure anywhere close to charlotte NC i could possibly help u with a rebuild for some gas $ and beer... (just read a lil too far) ***also u could run a compression check on the cylidners before pulling the heads to see how many valves u would possibly have to change...*** if its 4 or more i'd say u got major problems but maybe not (i'd pull and examine the extent of the damage... mine i put a belt on it put it in time and she ran off of 4 cylinders really really ****** then did a pull each plug individually to find out how many cylinders were dead which was 2 #1 and #3... kill the exhaust in 1 and both in 3 if u can tighten and loosen bolts and remember where u pulled everything and operate a torque wrench while following step by step instructions u should be able to do it...the hardest part is the timing light deal...its a lot of work but much worth it...if ure willing to take the risk if u mess up...

lets see...on my 87 fixing to go in: 95 dash, seats, possibly a diamond plate floor(not putting carpet back in),cb installed in dash and a custom headliner seen below with 4 3.5 speakers in a homemade box and the dropped down interior light...some guages (going to work on some a pillar guages)...also going to put the bracket in for the rear hatch ceiling speakers) my 95: cb installed in dash covereed the divide piece from front and rear ceiling with american flag pattern cut out rear carpet (had some stinky sticky crap melted in it and it broke the carpet down) and going to weld in some salvaged flooring from wheelmans pathy to make a consistant "truck bed" and then rhino line it

well go enjoy Ted...and i cant remember 100% but u might have to remove the windshield wipeers and cowl but once its loose it should just come off if its tight at all theres still a screw somewhere good luck

the 1 (Far left) is ure shift control unit just saw u had the others known...i think it is something like wiper power amplirier or something...mine (wheelmans) was black tho but maybe it was on the other side hmm i'll have to check sometime tomorrow

ok hmm i just remembered wrong...i'll blame that on dropping the axle on my finger... you could change CV's and hubs couldnt ya? and that axle would work? or would u have to do the spindles too?

u can popl the fender off...theres 3 on the door side like 4 or 5 on the top side then i think if u pop the corner light out theres 1 behind it and 1 or 2 more on that front edge then u can pinch the clips and back them out from inside... did u check all of ure relays? possibly has something to do with 1 kicking on when pressure drops after it warms up (im not even sure thats how it works but just a thought) i've also got a coil out of an 87 thats got maybe 2 months on it if its the same as ures say $15 and u can have it

im sort of in the middle of this right now...but my project was a lil bigger... i put a 95 auto wiring harness into my 87 manual pathy with the engine...this past weekend i got it to crank up using the auto ecu and hooking up the connectors to the auto shift knob (theres an inhibitor switch in there) other than that u need to change the wiring harness to the tranny...also u'll need a different plate that covers the floorboard where the shifter comes up... i believe the axles are the same its the actual CV's that have different splines but i could be mistaken i do know both have 6 bolts and they're in the same pattern and pretty sure they wouldnt have changed up the spacing on them due to an engineering work load stand point... the rest is the obvious...pilot bushing,flywheel,clutch, clutch slave and master cylinders and pedal assembly if i can think of anything else i'll let ya know and if u have any questions shoot me a PM

hmm that is nice to know thanks for that info 88 this means i will prob throw a code once its up to running temp and no O2 is hooked up.... also i think i figured out y my temp guage wasnt working...i didnt fill the coolant system before the test crank due to the fact if it worked i was going to have to remove the radiator to run the final position of the new wiring harness so i think it was just reading ambient air temp in the block which probably looks like 0 this leads me to the question if the guage/sensor goes bad which way does the needle end up (pegged at hot or cold) i think my buddies jeep pegs to hot when if it goes bad as a fail safe for drive to know that the engine could be in jeopardy

im kinda confused on this whole relocation thingy...what is the purpose if it....wheelman had it on his engine that i just installed in my 87...i popped it off (after i installed it in the truck b/c i couldnt get the partial lines off where i had cut the original lines to get it off)... and i put the stock filter on and i thought it was easier to install than it normally is with manifolds... the only concern i have here is this heat related? which i dont think is the case and i dont think there is any difference in the 87 and 95 frame rails except they moved the brake lines on the 95 to the top or bottom of the rail where the 87 runs down the side... anyways i pulled it off and will prob leave it off b/c i didnt like the vulnerability of the the filter when its relocated...

yea me too...i was going to post up the video...but my gf's computer doesnt have dvd drive so i could edit it and get it down to like 5mb from its 2gig initial size so i guess it'll be tomorrow sometime

DONE...she fired up didnt throw any SES lights... i had to hook up the auto shifter i forgot it had a sensor for park...bump switched the starter...and she fired up like she always has... only things that dont work right now is the temp guage.... video to come with strait header roar...

ohh hell yea... wired it up...thought about something and hooked up the auto shifter...turned her over and BOOM she cranked right up

sweeet lookin setup...

^ i got 1 too...actually 2 sooo whats ure point give'em a sell i was mainly curious cuze i didnt know if it was a pwr unit for that lil pwr button...im a noob on auto...and goddamn it wheelman y couldnt u have an auto...this swap would be more straight fwd...

LMAO...a guy at work was like WTF is that (i drove us to lunch) and i was like what and laid off the gas and he was like that &^%*@$# chirping...i was like pathfinder 101 exhaust leak...he was like fix that @!*% and i told him to give me 300 for some headers and he laughed...

ohh thats a must do...but ure truck is just like a woman...if u touch it wrong shes gonna be fukin pissed...(sorry ladies...u prob say the same sheet bout us tho)... if u set it back ot the stock pos... and disconnect the battery for a couple hrs what does that do...i'd imagine its got some sort of "stock" setting

i was kinda thinkin the same thing esp with all the wires...but hey i like to try and find out what things do...but i have pretty good sense about what i can play with and shouldnt... but anyways hope u get it figured out without any major issues

is that for the auto tranny or for the speakers...if its for the auto and i get my manual conversion to crank i'll sell it to ya

its sorta like thisbut not really but that might help some1 or be where he got it from... i dont 100% follow that...but thats cuze i hate wiring but its something to that effect... i've got my diagram out and was comparing it to see how i can pull this off... my real delima is me doing the auto to manual swap and the difference in the wiring there and but from what i've read and people have said its not an issue but from looking at the diagrams i think it is... but what i have in mind this weekend is to make sure everything i need to switch on will at pos 4 (the on pos) then if thats the case (havent checked out the diagram close enough to see what pos 5 actually turns on and if its all momentary) and i have a momentary switch that i will run straight to the starter and if the inhibitor relay needs it i'll do that but i havent seen anything that restricts the coil pack so i assume that if at pos 4 everything is on and i just need pos 5 to turn the starter over then i should be money...but with my luck thats not the case... i plan to go thru this fully on sat and hopefully get some straight pipe roar (open headers and yea i know its going to throw a light but i cant get the O2 out of the old exhaust...