unccpathfinder

trash around the resistor or in the fan...

thats what i always did? i know its not the proper way but i dont have any feelers...some1 else might know more on that but on the 2 i've done i just did it by feel...

i wish i had that the other day...but luckly i calculate my milage everytime and know my gauge is wrong so i had it roughly done in my head that i would end up 1/2 a mile short of where i usually fill up and there is 2 miles between that and another station so i stopped at the 1st 1 and after filling up i had 9 miles left (which would explain my rounding errors) but i would rather be long than short when it comes to gas in the tank...

i hear ya man... im hoping to not put mine back in lowrider stance for a while...she sat for like 5 months like that and it made me sad everytime i pulled in the driveway... whenever i finally get her 100% squared away and she quits being a lil bitch i'll be very happy...i just dont understand im trying my hardest to not send her onto another owner or worse the graveyard but she keeps on tempting me to make some thermite or c4 and burn/blow her up... then finish off the sides with a 12 ga.

i think thats b/c the directions on how to get it in LO suck...i found LO acciently...just happened to push down on the stick and it fell into place and i was like awsome...i've only had to use it 1 time and that was to show my buddy the most torque she could put down...like 1/2 or maybe 1/4 of what his car puts out but we shot up that hill and he held on tight and said damn so i guess it was good enough

yea that would SUCK...im usually the same way but i havent slept worth a crap this week b/c i've been laying there thinking about how to correct all the crap thats wrong with my projects at work that are going to start being built in less than 2 weeks and i have to somehow fix the designs (already fixed mine but other peoples are the problems) and thats 1200 chassis' being built so thats my priority right now... ohh yea either my wheel bearings or brakes started squeelin bad today (a lot worse than yest) on my DD...so tomorrow as im switching tires from the 87 to the 95 im going to check the bearings and hope that its the brakes or that they need to be repacked so i can make a small run at URE...but then again i dont wanna go cuze i wanna fix my white truck or at least know the problem

im pretty sure this is the intial time its leaked well noticably...and i've prob ran it about 2 hrs or so since the swap...and i know it wasnt leaking when wheelman was driving it... i was planning on doing the t belt tensioner and w/p anyways to play it safe in the next month or so...so thats not a big deal i just really hope its either the cam seals or crank...and not the friggin oil pan...but im pretty sure its 1 of the seals...just b/c its leaking out from inside the timing belt cover the right cam (pictured) was the only 1 tha had any signs of leaking...i know its leaking at least a lil bit but i dont know if its enough to cause what was on the ground... i do remember there being some space between the back plate of the t belt housing and the head so im wondering if the oil is running out of the seal and down behind the t belt housing and following the edge to that ear and dropping off...the only reason i think this is if the japanese are as particular as the germans that would be the intelligent design...so the oil runs down the back side and not on the T belt causing it to slip eventually and slam some valves... i knew this job went way too smooth (besides the dropping the axle on the finger) and of course i would have written a check for a lift today... i'll try the powder trick if something doesnt stick out boldly...havent heard of that but it sounds really good but possibly a lil messy but what the hell right?

at this point im really discouraged about this whole project...just when i see the light at the end of the trouble this BS happens...first off...last weekend i pulled that housing where the temp sensor is and drilled it and tapped it for a temp gauge...so i dont think this plays a part in it but it might... i cranked the truck up and wanted to bleed the air out of the coolant system and make sure the temp gauge was going to work...and right as she was getting warmed up and the tstat opened i look down and start seeing droplets come down... (see below) and it seemd if i reved the engine up more droplets came out but i shut her off as soon as i saw them... i looked her over really well before dropping her in and didnt see any leaks and over the past month or so when i'd run her she never leaked a drop of anything (cept my power steering gears) and then today just gets warm and that happens... so heres the oil spot she left... i initially thought cam seals but im thinking it might be that crank seal up front... heres pix of all the above...i did look all around up top and didnt see any kind of signs that the head gasket blew out (i didnt think that would be it b/c she wasnt running like crap or smoking... ............................................ ^ on the lil ear where a timing belt cover screw goes in is where the oil seemed to be dripping out of... im now thinking of canceling my URE trip and staying home to tear the front end down and see what i can find... right now im pretty disappointed and just am gonna get a shower and go hang out with the gf...

or go wheeling with him and out do him with the stocker pathy

i have an 87 and i had to drop the axle to get the engine out...tried my damndest to get it without pulling that FA..stupid oil pan was all in the way

02 sensor? would be my guess without looking at any codes...or a dirty MAF... and whats terrible gas milage...b/c i've heard people say that and they were getting what im getting but came from a car and i was like uhh its not gonna get any better...

if they do it the right way yes worth 130...if they just kinda goop on some silicone to make it stop leaking for a month or so then no... u just have to drop out the down tube, disconnect the cv's drop out the front axle and a cross memeber...i dont think u need to touch the LCAs...but i could be mistaken... and ure 100% sure its not the rear main seal and/or the valve cover gaskets...i thought my pan was leaking and it was the rear of my valve gaskets just running down where i couldnt see and falling to the pan looking like the pan...worth a check

heard a lil whistling today...so im pretty sure i have a small vaccum leak somewhere this might be a part of it...but no crazy idle in the past 2 days...i guess i'll wait till another day to try and figure it out

it should be in the fuse box? lemmie try and think what the name of it is... if thats not the case i'd check all the wires to see if any somehow broke loose

where the tow hooks mount there should be 2 holes on each side almost parallel to the ground next to the things u circled...

an engine is pretty straight forward if u have mechanical skills...ie can take something apart and put it back together and it work...the biggest thing with our engines is making sure its in time the 1st crank or u could have some issues... i broke a T belt and rebuilt the top end...no machine work no nothing just new valves and seals...she ran for about 25k more until i dropped something in the cylinder and she started knocking...compression check i was still getting 129 psi on each cylinder and she had 225k or maybe a lil more on it... dont hone the cylinders with a hand drill...and take it to a shop that knows what they are doing when they machine it i've seen some jobs done where they didnt sonic test the cylinders 1st ot see if it could be bored and honed and didnt have any break thru until a lil while down the road where the pressure eventually blew out the cylinder wall b/c it was too thin

yea i figured as much but i wanted to put it out there to make sure

yea u can get to it somehow thru the firewall...im in the middle of making the mechanical gauge work with the electrical stuff and i know theres a black sleve that the cable passes thru once its in the firewall...follow the cable up past the manifolds behind the engine (mines orange) and see if u can tell where it goes thru the firewall and u might be able to remove some sort of retaining plate there to back it out... i have extra gauges out of an 87 with everything except the speedo and the cable but if u think it is the actual gauges i have a tach, fuel, and speedo as well as the circuit that goes on the back of the gauge cluster...did u check the gauges fuse?

doh im an idiot...i know what a block heater is...i donno what i was thinking...i think i saw a pathy the other month that had one built in or at least it looked like it

this happened the other day and today i noticed it on my drive home...i get the early morning high idle in cool weather so i know thats not the issue but its similar to that... yest i took the gf home after driving home from carowinds and when i went to stop the rpms jumped from the normal idle of 800ish up to 1500...i hit the gas and they dropped back off... today after getting off the highway (about 65 miles) i notice at the 2 stop lights b4 work she was just staying at about 1500...the same happened this afternoon but coming back into charlotte theres a couple more lights and after the 2nd it seemed to be normal...coming to a stop and it idled at 800ish what i do know is that i have a good size exhaust leak and i think it has gotten worse in the past couple of months...also i think the voltage regulator is going bad on the alt. (i was wondering if nissan threw in a sensor that measures output voltage and adjustes the RPM to a certain extent to get it to a good level? i dont think this is the case but maybe?) so i was thinking i might need to clean up the ole MAF and/or replace the o2, and fix the exaust leak...i havent checked for codes yet but i dont have any SES lights or something like that...the idle is a lil rough but i dont think its any different than it has been but then again i dont notice things on a normal day until i notice something isnt quite right then i start thinking everything is wrong... any idea?

is this the same thing as a wabasto but for gas engines?

yea i plan on covering it with the rhino lining it and possibly if thats still slipery cover it with some of that grip paper...but good look out...plus i've got to wait till some gets to the scrap yard again so its only $1 a lb

i have plans for that in the near future...i am still finishing up the minor details of my swap but my carpet never smelled until i disturbed it and then the insulation stunk pretty bad (just an old smell) so i pulled it out...the back hatch area is just like a truck bed but u need to cut the carpet at the back of the seats to still have material on those or make some sort of back plate... on the rest of the cab theres like this 1/8" thick insulator stuff thats not consistant across the whole floor so that would need to come up and possibly make some metal plates to cover the electrical wires to level it off on the floor...im really thinking about trying to put aluminum diamond plate in the driver and pass side floor boards and maybe in the back seat and rhino lining it... i donno how long it will take me to get to that stage but its the plans

i know on my 87 theres a tube that runs down the center between the intake and engine block and then it has a connection where it splits to the heater core and somewhere else so maybe there? i donno if its like that on the newer models but worth a check

did u accidently unhook the shift cable...or r u a manual...if so did u have to unhook the slave cylinder and forget to put it back on the tranny?