unccpathfinder

i dont think u have to go as deep as the write up says...i'd pull the hubs and the spindle lock nuts and snap rings...then hit the cv to axle bolts...push towards the spindle and drop down the end towards the axle and pull out from the inside and slide the new 1 in... dont hold me to that but i think it can be done that way... if u try to get a used 1 be careful b/c the # of splines change somewhere between 87 and 95...im sure a lil search will clear that up...

yea thats a good cause too esp on the RH side...b.c u cant change it without leaking...unless of course if u have a relocation kit or threw in a 90 deg adaptor (i dont think thats possible) well keep an eye on it and GL...

just curious...did u check out the shift cable? im not real familiar with autos but i worked on a caviler that did the same thing and it was slop in the ball joints on both the tranny end and the shifter end...

and u didnt bend any valves when u broke the tensioner? that would be friggin amazing and lucky...if u bend valves it can possibly still run and idle pretty steady depending on what you bent i bent #1 and #3 on my 87 and we set up the timing so i could drive it across town and do a top end job...but it had NO power at all...

yea sorry for the lack of details...but thanks to the other guys that covered it...

^^yea what he said...but it will be a good bit of work/ time but its def possible...if ure looking for a quick fix for now i would throw the 91 tranny into the 88...

ok...u have some1 pump up the brakes and theres a bleeder valve on each of the 4 wheels and on the abs sensor...i'll look to find the order but i think its abs valve RR LR RF then LF... do it about 7 or 8 times for each 1 and check to make sure theres plenty of fluid after each go round and u should be good... a lil note...if ure not noticing any leaks and it starts smoking like a SOB...a guy i know just had 1 go bad and instead of leaking out of the base of the MS it leaked into the booster and started blowing it into the intake and started puffing god awful white smoke...only reason i know is cuze he was like i blew a head gasket and i told him to let me check it out and we foudn that he had no water in the oil and no oil in the water and all the plugs looked normal so we pulled the hose off and noticed if he pumped the brakes brake fluid came out of the vaccum tube...

a couple of balls of duct tape on the bottom and RH side will keep it from doing that...between the previous owner and my dad ramming into my truck when i was 15 all but 1 mounting spot broke and i didnt wanna spend the $ on the new assy so i balled up the tape and in 4 years it hasnt rattled since...

Slick as long as he swaps intakes and all those components he wont have to do any ecu swappage...my ? is whats wrong with the engine in the 91? popped timing belt? if thats the case i would seriously tear down the top end see whats up with it...if its just bent valves swap valves and put her back together nad it would be a lot less work than swapping engines...assuming that the 91 is what you want to be driving?

like slick said...check the valve cover...i thought i had an RMS and oil pan leak and it was really my valve cover gasket got hot old and leaky and it was running down and looked like it was coming out of the bell housing...u might want to spray it all down just to be sure...

what 88 said...cept i dont always use a pressure washer unless im at home home

theres some screws that adjust it...i'll try to find the diagram for adjusting them with refs on a wall or garage door... heres some links...pretty generic but not what i had seen in the past but should get the job done.... http://monkeycage.island4x4.com/showthread.php?t=31654 http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_cen...221.html?page=1

u're goign to want to replace it eventually...depending on how bad its leaking depends on how long u can go...but i'd do it ASAP...

in my 87 i never saw it the 1st 3 years i owned the truck...then i was in BFE on like Christmas and couldnt get gas and the light came on... what really pisses me off...is this weekend on the way to the home/beach i avg'd 21 mpg (i believe this is the 60mph than the 70-80mph)...im not letting the odometer get over 300 miles on it anymore tho cuze i dont wanna risk that again...

well i sorta tried that and it sputtered so bad that i killed it for good...plus it was up hill all the way...

88 u tha man

yea...i've always never trusted idiot lights but over time i've kinda used it as a fail safe to my calcs...and when unpredicted variables enter the system it sucks...so from now on im being extra careful... the guys at work were nice enough to print me off the "official gas can award"

ok as some of you know i drive 70 miles to work and 70 miles home so i fill up quite frequently (2 times 1 week and 3 the next) I keep tabs on my milage every tank and get about 18.5-19 depending on how late i am for work...so knowing i was going to be close i did a pretty good calc if i could make it which i've done before and always within 10 miles on the plus side of the calc...so i figured up i should have enough to get me 20 miles past work no big deal...so i drive 65 instead of 75-80 i normally drive to try and save a lil keep in mind my low fuel light has always worked and i usally stop if that comes on...and the gas needle in my truck goes to E after about a half a tank...so i go to pass a big truck and she starts bogging i was like no effin way im out she started spittin and kickin so i throw her in N and kill the ign to try and not burn up the fuel pump and im like 1.5 miles from a gas station and finally get some1 from work to come and get to get gas cuze it was like 40 with 20 mph winds (cold and i wasnt walking down I85 (i parked...uhh coasted so i was at least a good 3 truck widths off the shoulder) so i ran the calc for my gas milage and it was approx 16.7 depending on how much of the 2 gals in the ****** gas can the store had went in the tank i figured all of those out and so i got the right milage to end up 40 miles short and my low fuel light never came on...and im so pissed that i ran out of gas...so now if i get close to 300 miles on the odo im refilling

Hell yea...we're all addicts...

i dont think its that easy...as plug and pray...if you carefully went thru and compared the harnesses and wiring diagrams i imagine u could make it work...with enough time and $ u can do anything... are there any nissan ECU's that can be flashed/programed/tuned or whatever u wanna call it...if so i'd try to make that work so u could set up different operating conditions...1 of my buddies did it on his trans am for different conditions at the drag strip and then for gas milage when hes on the road...and a setup for when they plug it into the OBDII so it passes without a maf, egr and all of that stuff... just a thought?

i used the outdoor PA from radio shack and wired it into the cb...

interlock means u dont have to have the clutch pushed in to crank it up...put it in N hit the button 1 time then dont hit the clutch and crank her up...(u can do this in gear but it will roll)

if its like the 1 in a 95 u need to have a key switch...i think if ure fast enough u can unlock the doors and get in and get the key in the ignition b4 it will go off...i just turned mine off cuze it was annoying...

cd...i should have 1 laying round here if thats what i think it is...the lil rod that goes into the LCA from the back side...if thats it just shoot me a PM and i can pull it off of the frame and if u'll give me some shipping its ures... or u could still make that trip down here and get that frame so i dont have to sawsall it and find a dumpster in the next 3 weeks

man i wish i was still working at the machine shop on campus...the machinest there has built tons of engines like that...not to that scale but anything from pneumatic to gas engines...and he machined all the parts they were kinda cool...i'll look for some links cuze i know they have a big show up in detroit with those...