unccpathfinder

i've welded a couple of times now just renting a lil dinky 110 wirefeed from sunbelt...my buddy who is a welder by trade did 1 floorpan in my scout and i watched and he gave me some pointers and i did the other 1 and just welded some other crap togehter trying to get some good beads and after about 2 hrs i went from the crappiest weld i've ever seen to a decent looking weld (not exactly nickles laid over but a consistant bead) it was also galvenized steel to reg sheet steel and he said that galvinized is harder to do than just reg steel to steel so i felt good about it.... buy some extra tips i only goofed up 1 got too close and the wire melted in the end

good call i didnt really think of that...it would be nice if we could tune our ECUs...my buddy has a ws6 that hes done a lot of head work and has written a bunch of differnt fuel maps for different setups (ie track on a warm humid night, pass inspection tune etc etc) hes trashed the MAF and all that stuff if i recall correctly...so it'd be really nice if we could tune up our ecus and what not (i dont think its possible to do that but could be wrong)

i meant for the ECU...it wont run correclty with 3.3 L displacement with the ecu fueling it for 3.0 L will it? but i could be mistaken

yea what he said...i would lean a lot more towards broken belt.... and that looks sweet but i believe i've heard problems with getting that bad boy in with the TTs...possibly a right combination of lift and fab work u could get them to fit?

good luck...keep us posted

theres a thin wire that runs from the left hand track to the right hand track...its possible it got streached out and isnt pulling the fingers up high enough on the 1 side causing it to stick...i just swapped tracks and all that stuff with the 95 seats b/c it lost the ability to slide forward when u pulled the lean back lever...i had bent mine and it wouldnt fully engage that 1 side and after a lil tweaking with some plyers i got back going

it cant hurt it that bad...mine gets coated every time b/c i dont put rags on it...maybe i should but i dont... i've always used new oil and never had a problem but i guess it makes more sense to use old... this might seem a lil crazy but try to tighten up a lil more to break the seal then loosen it up...

heh i was going to ask the same thing...my roommate has this 3 prong adjusting oil filter remover and it works charms i hemanned my oilfilter on about a month ago and couldnt get it off without that thing and i didnt wanna punch and spill more oil although i've done that in the past...

also i dont know how many of yall have BL's but i believe if u had that u dont have to touch the axle...i just know from my experiences both 87 and 95 that i could not get the engine out with the FA still in place...the oil pan hit that and the intake caught the lip of the firewall...

every1 i talked to said it was b/c as soon as it died my natural reaction was to hit the clutch...but i dont really thing the bottom end would slow down that fast...i imagine the top end only made it maybe 2 revs after it broke but the bottom end prob went a couple more thousand u know? i could see where the valves hit the pistons tho it left lil half moon crests but no visible cracks

u can pull up the carpet in the hatch area and theres 4 10mm bolts that pull up a plate which is ure access panel to the fuel pump i'd assume thats where he's talking about... also could check the vent line tube i donno about SST i think it would be costly...i cant remember if theres hardlines that run down the rails i think it is so u'd only need a couple of 3ft? sections

all the extra parts can always make u some money back if u part it out... the swap is not scary...unless the axle falls on ure finger so dont do that (that was just me being tired and careless i had done it about 6 times b4 that happened... but like i said its not scary...just a generous amount of work but if u have time its not a big deal...it depends on how slanted ure driveway is but if it were me i'd like to be on a flat surface... is ures auto or manual (i might have missed it) but for my manual 87 to get my engine out (not in the correct order)... ~jacked her up and put it on jackstands ~loosen t bars and eventually dropped out cross member ~disconnected cv's from the front axle ~unhooked the front axle bolts up front then the 2 cross member bolts and dropped out the axle ~ loosen up the bolts on the tranny...remove the starter and the 4 bolts that go from the engine side into the tranny ~removed slave cylinder ~remove rear drive shaft ~remove down tube ~dropped tranny out ~undid the 4 motor mount bolts after ~removed radiator and fan and ac compressor ~removed and tagged all the electrical coolant and vaccum lines ~slowly jacked the engine out ~hood...u have to pull that bad boy too and im sure im missing small stuff here and there i can try to go to kinko's sometime if u wanted and copy the pages out of the FSM for u or maybe get the gf to scan them up at the engineering building if its an auto the biggest thing is getting the torque converter loose before you pull the engine out if ure going to reuse it and u have to rotate the engine by hand and hit each of the 4 bolts individually thru the starter hole... heres everything that i removed to get her out (minus the heads those were the maxima heads waiting to be put back on the other block:

i would suspect rings more than valves like 88 said...i believe heat cooks rings a lot more than valves and valve seals...but you could always pull the covers off the rockers and pressurize the cylinder and replace the seals... a swap is not bad...its a lot of work...i know on the manuals and prob the automatics too...about 3 6" extensions and some U joint swivels make the top bolts on the tranny a lot easier to get in and out... having the right tools is half the battle and i have learned this over time...the only thing im missing that would make the job a lot easier is a tranny jack...but i have devised a system of 2 2 ton jacks on a creeper with some rope up thru the shifter hole to balance it out...some people say u can do it without dropping the tranny...i tried and it didnt work for me and ive also tried to do it by not dropping the front axle and that didnt work for me... if ure around charlotte NC and need some help i might be able to lend a helping hand

heh...my 87 did that but only 1 side would go out i'd give the dash a good whack and it would come back on...but glad ya found the problem and u might want to take the time to follow it connects to make sure the wire is still intact i'd guess its loose in the connector if u havent blown any fuses but none the less it'd be good to know thats where the problem was...

replied in the other post...i had no noises (besides the radio)...

i broke mine doing about 50-55 and she died...i coasted about a quarter mile listened for the fuel pump it was coming on then i pulled the top cover and saw the 2 cam gears but no belt...changed the belt realized i had 2 dead cylinders...replaced all the valves and slapped the heads back on and she ran for 40k till i changed the spark plugs and something fell down inside and welded to the piston causing all kinds of banging... but like i said mine was completly quiet didnt hear any banging or clanging...i would pull the t belt cover and if u see no belt or no tension on the belt then theres ure problem...i would suggest doing what i did change the belt if she runs on all 6 ure damn lucky if not either compression check or use insulated plyers and pull 1 plug wire at a time while its running and listen to changes in the engine noise if theres no change thats a dead cylinder... this was the 1st time i had ever done anything internal and i had my gf at the times dad help me do it we did it in 2 days but 1 day was b/c we got a wrong valve in the box where abouts are u located? if ure near charlotte i would be willing to help u out with it

on wheelmans when we were working on it i noticed that and a very very small damp looking spot and after taking the tank out and everything during the strip it has to be a hairline crack b/c i cant see it on the inside or out...but the smell was strong

put the old plugs and 02 back in...dont say anything to the dealership...get them to change it and drive it home and have that happen and blame it on them...but if htey know that u did anything they will blame it on u...even if u have to drive there and clean it up a block away or something...but i def would try to make it their fault.... this is just because they will say its not their fault and ures (which it might not be either but it will give u a possible out esp if u have any kind of warranty)

checked mine the past 2 days and at about 50 degrees which isnt really cold on my 95 she ran at 1500 for a while till it hit running temp then dropped back off to 700

i dont know if the mounts are the same but i think i've heard people talk about them... but what i would do is find an x that was either wrecked or had a bad tranny or something...if the mounts are the same then heres what i'd do.... measure the dash and see if it would be possible to install...then strip the x all the way down (have to to get the wiring harness out) strip the pathy all the way down...kinda check and see if u can fit the dash in without any of the other crap...they'er really tight to get in and out (at least the 95 was hard to get into my 87) lay the harness out in ure truck drop the engine in...u'd prob have to change out pedals and all that good stuff but if u have a whole truck its not a big deal... i think it would be slick to have an x dash in the pathy...but then again i thought it was cool to have the 4 dr dash in the 2 dr...but i'll hopefully get to see what every1 thinks at URE good luck

holy @!*%...please tell me thats not from a broken T-belt...and that cradle is donkey how'd u manage to do that...but i guess that shows that it did its job and didnt let the rod go thru the bottom of the pan...

yea what he said...that or somehow the wiring harness plug that goes thru the firewall came out or theres 1 inside the fender that could have come dislodged but most likely the cowl being stuffed with trash

every 10k? but dont hold me to that... looks nice BTW

yall use those up there? heh...i bet no1 pays attention to the hand signals unless its a middle finger...if u want when i get home i will try to look and see on the wiring harness what the PN is on it and i could possibly send that to u if i can locate it in that mess but i dont think the flasher should have caused u to blow a fuse unless u have a short somewhere but i could be wrong... they run that wire for the right signal in a kinda crappy place and its quite possible that the insulation got rubbed off and its grounding out on the frame i dont know if u backed it all the way out or not but it might be worth a shot if some1 else thinks its a short...

in an addition to what precise said when mine was going it wouldnt leak until maybe 10 to 15 mins after it sat i guess the pressure had to build up or something from it not circulating but it didnt leak instantly but that doesnt mean it will/will not in ure case i was just going to throw it out there