unccpathfinder

what year X engine...i should be able to get u a FSM...

ohh.....never seen the 4 banger but i'd imagine its pretty close and possibly easier to work on?

hmm...it shouldnt be too bad...def have an engine stand.... ~u have to remove a plate on the front and rear of the engine (where ure main seals are) ~the pan is easy to remove ~pull the dipstick tube then once u get in there there are 2 10 mm bolts that hold the oil pickup tube ~then the cradle has about 8 bolts i think but u prob need a breaker bar b/c they're at like 90 ft lbs or something ~then the bearing races and connecting rod back plates but i think the pistons dont have to come out to get the crank out but i havent pulled the crank all the way out of our engine but the 1's i have done u had to pull the crank before i could get the pistons out IIRC you could probably do it in 2-3 hrs depending on how fast u work and if you dont run into any problems

http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/refg...hfinder/fwd.pdf http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/refg...hfinder/fwd.pdf if u change the make and year it has most of them...

or...... http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/refg...hfinder/fwd.pdf fo free

sounds like corrosion and/or loose connections possibly...

i'd say u'd have to swap the TCU like cd said...try and get a hold of the circuit diagrams for both and possibly cross reference part numbers for the ecu's and TCU's...the stealership might be willing to plot off the diagrams for u but im not sure or possibly a parts store can get them for u

also i just checked on a couple sites and they show the 87-90 and 90-95 as different listings but the part numbers are the same and they're off a 95 anyways so that would cover ya but im almost 100% sure they're the same esp since my 87 mounts worked for me...(now i know as soon as u get these mine will go bad)...sent a follow up PM as well

i've got extra's PM me...shipping would be from 28262...say $45 for both plus shipping...they're off of a 95...i thought i would need them for my 87 swap but the 87's are exactly the same

glad it worked for ya...if theres some way to make another tool work for what you need and it costs at least 1/2 of what the special tool is i'll try and make it sometimes they work sometimes they dont but usually i get it to work eventually

first of thats uncc...and 2nd off using the find funtion i dont find the word smoke in the entire thread until i hit my thread so if u'll so kindly point that out to me i'll read it... not trying to be a jackass or anything ::edit:: and when i say broken t belt i didnt mean the current 1 broke if u read my post it says: i've been there done that know its possible just trying to give any other suggestions to try and figure it out

ouch...i must have missed that pic slick...even mine with the @!*% welded to the top didnt look that bad...was it smoking really bad or just loosing compression like crazy... but if u say it doesnt run that makes me think broken t belt replaced b/c i def know mine ran off of 4 cylinders and i drove it like that for a good couple miles before i convinced myself i wasnt paranoid anymore that i actually had no power...

ohh yes...our engines vapor lock in a bad way...the way i do mine is fill it up run it till it gets to running temp and top it off periodically with the cap off let it cool completly with the cap off and that works most of the air pockets out sometimes it doesnt but then i just do it again...wish we had air bleeder valves like most other cars have that have cavities to catch the air and bleed it out does your exhaust smell like raw fuel? if so then u know at least 1 cylinder isint firing (burning off the fuel) check all connections of the plug wires and that they actaully seat on the plugs and cap...disconnect battery for like 30 mins to reset ecu (i cant remember if u said ualready did that or not)

if ure not burning oil...im guessing a busted tbelt previously they replaced it and put a new water pump on it so u could quite well run off of 4 cylinders...i set the timing in mine to do so when i busted my tbelt and put 1 on to see if i bent valves... try to adjust the cap so it'll run...if u get ti to run pull 1 plug at a time with insulated wires and if it dies or changes RPM then that cylinder is good if it seems the same its dead...u can also run a compression check...and check the oil/coolant to see if they're mixing if ure oil looks milky then head gasket is blown for sure or something interal is busted...

too bad ure not in charlotte anymore...i have an 87 engine ready to go never cranked it after doing intake,oil pan swap (it was a maxima motor)...i wasnt thrilled about the oil i found in the pan but i have 2 sets of heads that are good... my personal experience in my 87...doing 50mph uphill and it broke i hit the clutch and tried over and over to get her to crank and called my mechanic up and he said pull the timing belt cover and i did and saw no belt... so i put a new belt on it and cranked it up... it ran but ran like pure @!*%...comes to find out i was running on 4 cylinders i bent the #1 and 3 exhaust valves and # 3 intake it did nothing to the cylinders but left a lil dimple from wehre the valve hit took 3 days (napa had the wrong valve in the right box) pulled old valves put new in lapped them put the heads back on with water pump and belt and she ran like a champ (until i dropped some thing in the cylinder and it welded to the piston) i would say get a belt put it on and try it out im going to say u bent a valve 95% sure of that but i will say if i didnt shatter a piston and u can turn the engine over and it doenst sound like rocks in the block ure prob ok...worst case pull the heads if it looks like @!*% then go with a new engine...if it looks alright swap valves and rebuild her...like i said i've got all kinds of spare parts and im sure slick and others do too that could go for cheap and i'd be willing to let that maxima turned pathy engine go for like $300 to get what i put in it out (gasket set the initial engine $100 which my buddy reduced from 400 for me) water pump...but i wasnt 100% confident in it not smoking but i know the last time it was ran it didnt but it sat for a year or so after that but i do plan on trying to build a stand and hook up a fuel source and coolant system to see if its going to run smoothly or not (sometime) but you could at least figure out what the extent of ure damage is without spending any money (or u can pay some1 $800 like my roommate did to tell him he broke a valve spring in his grandprix which i told him without ever seeing the car and he didnt trust me and was scared to pull a valve cover) but good luck and keep us informed...if you have any questions i'd be glad to try and help out and i think i have an old T belt laying around if u want i could send it to u for postage so u can at least put it on and test but i wouldnt use it for a long term situation just b/c i dont know how old or how many miles are on it u could def use it to run a compression test sent u a PM...ure ryans buddy right?

ohh yea i forgot to mention that i quenched it quite freqently to keep it cool (sorry minor details)

heres the link off of advances site and it seems like they went up on the price a lil bit its now $15 http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....rtnumber=T72048 and for the 2 remaining prongs i had to grind them down so they were about 1/2 as thick and cut chamfers on the outside corners and heres a lil more description i found with google: AmPro # T72048 1/2-3/4 Ton 4 slot 4wd Wheel bearing Locknut Tool $9.99 hope that helps out

well the jy around here usually has the guages...if i find 2 i'll pick up the cluster for ya i should be able to get it for like $10

yea what they said...i had my slave cylinder go bad and shoot fluid out every time i hit the pedal and it would go to the floor and stick...so i'd try bleeding it out completly and i know sometimes on my 87 it'll bleed up good and then the next time i get in it'll stick again so i assume air is getting trapped somewhere and seeping out

sorry i missed all of that...maybe the relay gets hot and doesnt work properly? and the time it takes to get to it and whack it it cools off? i dont see that being an issue but who knows...very weird

hmm...get some wire long enough to run to the pump and just lay it across the seats and what not from the relay and slice it right into the fuel pump and see if that works maybe a wire rubbed thru or something and some how didnt pop a fuse... sweet thats around raleigh/cary right?

heres what i did...i took the locknut in with me to autozone and i think it was a dodge or ford spindle locknut tool saw which 1 had the closest holes that i could cut 2 off and round the other 2 prongs so it would fit and used my dremil and made the tool in like 10 mins for $7...attached are pix... new 4 prong locknut socket: finished product: with locknut resting on top to show fit:

welcome...where abouts in NC? did you happen to replace the relay and test it? it could possibly be clicking and not engaging? just a thought...

when i replaced my shoes i had the brake light come on...i think there was tension on the brake cable and after a couple of miles it went off i guess after it wore the pads down or everything settled in...not sure about the battery light tho the above posts are probably a good start

to me they also look like they're more than 10% worn