unccpathfinder

IIRC the way i did wheelmans was on a learning curve...but if u bust both the upper and lower loose from u can manipulate the spindle without disconnecting anything else and get them in place and i think u have to do the lower 1st then the upper...but it might be the other way around... i will confirm this weekend (hopefully...the gf graduates and commissions on sat so i get to do all of that fun stuff)...

i think 12 exhaust studs...theres quite a few write ups on these topics...i have a couple myself on swapping an 86 maxima engine in and what has to be changed and putting a 95 into an 87... theres a recent write up on some1 that did a rebuild in their garage...

define sliding...were u in ruts or not?...i think u r talking about a sway back and forth while in a set of ruts and this would be normal...but i dont think i would have been in 4L...and with a good set of ruts the pathy can go almost anywhere in 2wd on 31's... i used to drive on the beach every weekend down at carolina beach and i've been out to the OBX and as long as im in a set of ruts i can go anywhere in 2wd and sometimes if its rained recently ruts or no ruts it'll go anywhere... and for that i've never dropped my air...i understand if ure driving a big chevy or ford dropping them down to 18 or so but the pathy's so light unless its really bogging down i dont see dropping the air in the tires... also what'd ya catch?

sounds good... yea im gonna do all 4 balls ironicially enough the 1's i have in the garage are the 1's i helped wheelman install on his about 2 weeks B4 it was totaled so i have the right tools and know the tricks to get it done without unhooking anything except the balls and the order that will make it all happen...

i've done that...a piece of trash fell into the cylinder when i changed the plugs...although i always blow/vaccum them out with the air compressor/shop vac it must have been jammed and when the plug came out it fell in and welded to the top of the piston on about the 5th or 6th revolution...

WD21 is 87 to 95 (ok im an idiot and dont pay attention up to 95...i missed that the 1st go round) i have both the 2 door and 4 door...but the 2 dr is much cooler and a D21 is the hardbody...

i just always use 3 or 4 cans of the rubberized undercoating from advance...like $40 total and an old pair of jeans/sweat shirt...scrape what i can to metal and spray on...and i always mask off the paint so overspray is not an issue...

the thing about it is...i dont know if it was the guys who did the CVs for my cuz or the people before then with the previous owner...i really wish i could find out cuze i'd tell them how much they suck... granted i have done some things wrong or took a short cut...but that was my car and i knew it didnt run the risk of killing some1 or the vehicle... i have a DTA (dont trust anybody) policy with my trucks and if i cant do it theres only a couple guys that i will allow to do it and none of them are a buisness per say just some good ole boys...

yea... i have a feeling a majority of this is coming from the lack of balancing...from 0-55 or so theres hardly any and then 75 is still pretty bad most coming from the back... think there might be a warped drum (not a lot but enough that i can feel it during braking) so this weekend i will try to get them balanced and swap out the ball joints (have them laying in the garage floor) and if that takes care of it i'll be happy...if not i will swap the wheels off of the 87 and if it goes away i know theres a bent/warped rim...

ok reworked the wheelbearings today after suspecting them of being loose they were...that removed about 75-80% of my shakes/vibrations but i still have some...its around 50 mph that the wheel will kind of bounce back and forth (i think this is mostly a wheel/tire being out of balance) ?'s: Will worn out ball joints cause vibrations/shakes i noticed that both of my uppers have boots torn and no grease and look pretty bad (will be replacing this coming weekend along with lowers)? CV's are both good and tight braking doesnt have an effect on this so im pretty sure its not the rotors being warped know the tires/rims arent completly balanced i dont have any slop in the steerings (so i think that takes care of tie rods and that stuff) what else could cause this shake/vibration?

well ever since my cuz bought the 95 i now drive it has shaken pretty bad over 45...and i always had a hunch it was wheel bearings and today i decided to jack it up to check them...while pushing on the top and bottom of the wheel i got about 1/4" worth of travel (not good) so i proceed to take everything apart...they cross threaded both caliper bolts into the slide pins and yea they broke off so i had to borrow from the 87...the snap rings were all kinds of messed up (looks like they grabbed them with a pair of pliers and just pulled)...the best part was the spindle lock nuts...i removed the 2 phillips head screws on both sides and then put my index finger on the locknut and with no effort removed them...both bearings had very minimum grease and i dont think it was really grease (it resembled ear wax in color and density) so yea i really hate the guys that worked on this thing B4 me

that is very true...esp after i heard a salesman (most are ignorant anyways) say that "yea we (chevrolet) designed the camaro to keep up with the GT" god i hope not cuze the GT is pretty slow...

well i will say that my 95 has a lot more rust than my 87 (almost zero)...but i haven't really seen a lot of rusted frames... and the 95 i think the guy that originally owned it b4 me and my cuz ran it thru some salt water b/c the rust is below the battery and on the back sides of the front and rear bumpers... as 88 stated i always flush the insides of my frame rails undersides and everything else...i've undercoated my 87 2 diff times and i need to get after the 95 but havent taken the time or effort... but good job on the repair looks good...

ohh yea...if u do find some bushwackers on ebay...the fronts are the same on the HB and pathy...but the right rear is diff for the cut out on the fuel door...pathy is rear of wheel well and HB is in front...i learned that the hard way...but they were easy enough to sell back...

I dont care for all the carbonfiber trims but I wouldnt mind seeing 1 (not riced out or course) but tweaked and tuned to beat up on some american muscle esp the new mustangs and camaros... but then again if a 71-72 chevelle comes up at the same time for about the same price...i would prob get that

ohh yea...my buddies dad taught us (me and him) i think i might have had a permit but my buddy didnt have anything and we just drove around the neighborhood only...which was great b/c 90% of it was flat and then there was 1 road that had some good hills with like 3 stop signs on it...

u do have them set up with a relay right?

3.6-3.8 L is a friggin huge v6...i'll def go try and test drive 1...

find a flat neighborhood that he can drive a round in...1st things 1st find the friction point (ie sit on a flat surface so it doesnt roll put it in 1st and slowly let off the clutch until it starts to roll/bog down) this is where the cltuch ingages so that gives an idea of where u need more gas...i learned on a miata that was friggin easy...the bronco II i got took me a lil while to master and the pathy was a breeze... when i 1st learned from a stop i would rev to about 2k and when i let the clutch out i gave it more gas then i progressivly got to matching the gas and clutch... pointers i would give... 1. dont yell at him (i broke an ex gf of wanting to drive cuze she was nervous and almost rolled back on a BMW that got right on our ass on a small hill) 2. if it starts to stall either slower on the clutch release or more gas...or cltuch to the floor and go again... 3. 1st and 2nd are going to be the hardest to master but the others wont be a big deal 4. once hes comfortable on flat ground try some small hills and progress from there 5. lay off the gas when clutch is hit... 6. i'd say shift about 3-4k if u want to give him advanced training the synros will match up about 3000...pull out of gear let the rpms drop to about 2100 for a split secont while u put it in the next gear and u never have to hit the clutch...

i wanna see 1 of these things close up and take it for a test drive... http://www.thecarconnection.com/Vehicle_Re...S184.A9513.html

i put 95's on my 87...i had to hit a couple of extra holes but if you get all of the lil plastic dealies it works out...the only diff is the front valence cut out on the flare is diff...but i think that is also interchangable (or at least can be made to fit)...i also took a dremil and got rid of the flaps...

i've noticed that quite a few people that had whips didnt get strong signals...i think this is due to the resistivity...i get a lot better signal out of my 4' firestick than my 8' whip...although i havent gotten to check out the swr lately (need to get 1 the ex gf's dad had 1 and we tweaked it in but now i've switched co ax, antenna's and trucks...i wish i knew more about this electrical stuff but u guys are learning me

hmmm short ground...i think this might be my problem that and the relay deal will prob help too...i get god awful ign feedback...

i believe the 2wd is going to be hellof a lot easier...as stated earlier...but i'll send u a lil present via PM (if i can find it i dont have my PC right now...toasted my MB so i dont have any bookmarks but i'll see if i cant find it and send it ot ya it'll answer everything)... but i believe u will: remove T bars, tranny Xmember, Tbar Xmember, exhaust down tube, starter, driveshaft, 8-12 bolts on the tranny, shift linkage and possibly lever and all of ure cooler/electrical lines...just keep a look out for the message cuze my new MB should be here weds if i cant find the link... **edit** PM sent... and i forgot...about 3 6" extensions and a U-joint makes the removal and install A LOT easier (esp the very top 2 bolts)... pepboys has the 1/2", 2/8" and 1/4" drive u joints in a bunch for like $8

i'd pull the 2 bolts off of the MC and look in the brake booster to see if thats where hte fluid is going...theres a weep hole on the bottom side of the MC against the booster and usually the fluid leaks there when its going bad...so if not like i stated previously its prob filling up the brake booster