unccpathfinder

if that looks like too much work/cost...i've got a vg for sale...all u need to do is swap out u're intake and u'll be good to go

what about full time 4wd? no hubs at all...i dont like auto hubs...they've gotten me in trouble a couple times...but i got a lot of grinding in the 95 last time i got stuck and was shifting back and forth from r and 1st to rock out...and i had the auto's not engage 1 time when i was in the 87 and theres a video out there of them partially engaging and grinding like hell...manuals are the way to go...i always lock them right b4 wheeling but i always see what i can do in 2wd b4 4wd so locking them allows me to shift the tcase and not have to get in the mud

if it were me they'd run down the track and in the back door...or get the oem light bar that connects where the 4x4 logos are and run the wires in there...thats what im going to do with my lights after i get them (after i figure out y shes giving me troubles) but thats b/c i hate drilling holes...you could possibly drill through the oem rack and remove the headliner before hand from the inside and drill a hole that you can fit a grommet through or maybe right in front of the rack drill through the roof and put a grommet...

go wireless backdoor is looking like the way to go then...but let us see the pix and go from there...i've yet to run wires for the lights for the new light bar...but i did run some to the rear bumpers which i need to rewire and pull the power from the rear b/c im really worried about a + line chaffing and causing a fire

I dont like drilling holes does the rack happen to mount where the 4x4 logo's are on the side? if so i would figure a way to route through the rack and in that way... if not I would pull power from somewhere near the rear of the vehicle to put my relay in so they'res only signal wires running all the way up front and not the powered lines if u have a factory roof rack you could possibly remove it and drill under it somewhere to put a grommet to make sure it seals good and put the rack back over it...got any pix of the set up to give better illustration?

no worries...that would be a heck of a trip for them...although my uncle did that when he was stationed over in germany...he picked up an axle for his camaro and had it shipped out but i think it cost him what the car was worth...good luck

i've got the front diff and rear LSD axle out of a 95 (h233b) with the 2.6xx gearing...its in charlotte...you pick it up and name the price and its ures...

loose/corroded wire on the starter or short in the starter solenoid signal wire...i'd start probing as pavlow stated and possibly pull the starter off and take it somewhere to get the solenoid tested

can you define slapping around? i mean my stick in both my 87 and 95 shake in gear esp if i hit rough roads...i believe that mainly comes from where the shifter goes into the transmission theres a little space in there for the ball and socket connection there that actually moves the mechanisms to shift so there is some play there...plus the shifter is so long that a little movement at the base of the shifter translates into about 2 ins or so side to side at the top of the shifter while its in gear... my roommates camaro and my buddies trans-am's shifters vibrate and have a good bit of "play" and their only like 5" (stock camaro) and maybe 2" (custom short throw) long shifters and just a side note did you fill it to the proper level...i would be curious if the new transmission had the fill level plug relocated to the correct level...if not i would make sure i filled from the top side (shifter input)

yea pop the retainers out...i usually have to pull the battery out to get the pass side b/c my hands too big to get in there...the retainers will only go on 1 way...the slots on the lamp and studs on the retainer are spaced differently (IIRC) so that it will only go on 1 way... once those are loose pull the bulb out the backside and fight with getting the bulb out of the connector and then put it all back together...

correct...it pulls air in...

how sure are u that the battery is good...if u have a dead cell it will jump start with no issue (after cranking u can live off of just the alt)...i have had batteries that were brand new off the shelf and 2 weeks later (mainly after a weather change from cold to hot) the bastard quit working...my roommate went thru 2 batteries like that and the 3rd has been in there for almost 3 years now and no issues... i guess im saying just cuze its new doesnt mean its not bad... also a bad spot on the starter solenoid? but im gonna go with bad battery...

i may be in for a fly...the way things are panning out i will have the 87 which right now im having a ton of emissions issues (not in nc but cali would def not pass it for anything)...and it looks like i'll be getting rid of the 95...i got an offer from the guy which was f'in horrible but i talked to him tonight with a ctr and he better meet me halfway or im not coming...but i will be optimistic and if im there and its in july fro a weekend i could possibly fly if its not more than like $150 or so gf said the gas is $3.40 in the area there? they're talking about $3.00 by the end of the week in SC (cheapest gas in the us) which i'd hate to see the price here in nc i keep forgetting to look but i've heard its at $3....

i roll up under it and pop the 2 bolts out and drop the front skid plate...then grab a hold to it from the front side and from the bottom...and rotate right then back left then back right and take loose the connectors then drop it over the CL...the rotations are while im pulling it forward and it comes out without too much trouble...getting it in is a lil harder but not a huge deal if u pay attention to exactly how it came out

not really any crazy 1's for the pathy besides the positive cable rubbing thru and melting my battery and tie wrapping/taping it up... the craziest road side repair that i think i've done is changing out a rear end in my buddies z71 in the uncc parking lot...it sat on jackstands for 2 months B4 he got the money to get the locker and we could install it...they didnt mind it too much which surprised me... i also helped a guy change a clutch in a pathy in an apartment complex parking lot with the bare minimum tools here B4 having to do mine (i thought he was doing a lift b/c the t-bars were laying on the ground...but some pizza and cold beers and 6 hrs later we got it all back together and i got the experience i needed to feel comfortable doing mine

depending on your location...i have a LSD rear axle and normal front axle with the 4.6 gear ratio...I need to get rid of them and the price will be very reasonable...PM me if ure interested...located in charlotte nc

yea... i remember it being so tight...umm...she popped and that was it...maybe thats y im still ridin her out...i wont ever get rid of that bitch...i dont care if she ever runs right again...i'll drive her till the day i die...

i've got an 87 and a 95...the 87 is good for a wheeling truck (its lighter, thats the only reason i can come up with i dont get it stuck) the 95 is nice to have the 4 doors...i usually leave both with the back seat laid down and with the 4 door u can def get to things easier... im looking to get rid of the 4 dr but i would prefer to keep both and build both up as rigs so me and my girl can go together...the 87 is the 1 she wants...so i would have to settle with the 4 dr... both have their +'s and -'s but their about even... I would say get the 4 dr b/c its newer and its different...if u dont like it sell it or trade it for a 2 dr...the 4 drs are pretty much the same as the 2 drs to work on...but u will have to deal with MPFI on both unlike the 87 which is kinda a pian to work on but not too bad... i really would like to 1 day have a 2 dr wd21 4 dr wd21 and a r50... but we'll see how everything plays out... that being said...the 1 that is more mechanically sound and has the lesser of the common issues and best bang for the buck is the 1 i would do...

thats a good POV on everything...since i walked in the door a year ago at work and the same for my peers its WFO all the time just when u think u have a second to relax 10 tons of @!*% fall out of the sky right on ure plate to take care of and its take care of it now or see ya...and i have always worked hard growing up (although its mostly been manual labor till now)...i hate having unfinished business and try to get everything complete accurately asap

as long as u want...but it could require rebuilding the top end...or even worse a new engine...i was cheap and didnt replace the belt when i did a w/p and busted it...i learned the hard way and it sucked...i would say dont push the limits...do it at like 100k or even 90...esp if u dont know the history of the belt/water pump... I would also do cam seals...and maybe valve seals

From my daily involvements in projects with our corporate office and vendors in portland/seattle and from other folks inputs of their dealings with other companies out there... for the majority is everyone slow with their dealings on projects and what not...i have noticed multiple times where the project is urgent and it would take me like 5 mins to do but it takes them "20 hrs"...since i'm looking to move/work out there i was just curious if this is mainstream?

i would have to say yes b/c 3 days B4 hand i was behind him thinking damn those are dark...the state trooper didnt know about DOT #s and the owner of the truck and trooper decided u could see them well enough...lucky for him...

a lot of times u have to ask for that...but man im sorry u had a bad deal on the pathy...hopefully u can find another 1 soon...

yea thats what it looked like..i donno if ure suppossed to pull it and let the truck roll backwards and it locks and then when u pull forward it will release...i bet theres some crazy trick to it

is it a manual? someone may have lived in the mountains and didnt feel confident in the regular drum brakes and/or the loading on the gears in the rear axle/ transmission while it was parked?...just a stab in the dark...im working on redesigning an axle park brake at work...but i never asked y some1 would prefer that over a regular brake