unccpathfinder

I forgot to mention that you can check the bearing without pulling the axle... place your had at the top and bottom of the tire and push and the right and left (creating a couple) (in leighmans terms put a hand at 12 and 6 and push and pull in opposite directions like push in on the bottom and pull out with the top and rotate back and forth and do the same at the 3 and 9 oclock positions) if it rocks or rattles excessively the bearings are loose and/or need replacing...prior to doing this make sure all your lugs are tight...

is it the entire lock or just the internal components that spin...I suspect its not the entire lock assembly but if it is try to hold it and turn the key if it works then the clip that holds the lock in place came off somehow and needs to be replaced...

make sure that the clip on the engine side is in place and pulled tight (the cable runs across the top of the firewall and should be retrained there pretty tightly to keep the cable from moving (binding up from the cable) you could also put a strap or something across the topside where it mates with the dash to keep it from popping up or try to shim it in...

its easy to get the axle shaft out...4 12mm? bolts on the backside the beast is getting to the bearings...I think you need a press and a specialty tool to get the locknut free and get the bearings/races out and in

yea that what I called the chicken foot is foghorn the technical name? I have only heard of it as the "chicken foot" if it is...I usually pick up 3 studs where the image shows 2 but I guess thats up to you

I think you should separate the tranny into auto and manual...this could be a helpful topic for those looking to get into a pathy and make a choice on auto or manual did lack of power but i cant really complain but it was between that and aftermarket parts

you can just get it from a parts store... thats not good but its not too bad...you just have to make sure when the engine is at TDC that the timing marks line up at 0deg with the arrow on the timing cover case (i did this my 1st w/p job) get a chicken foot puller...Dont use a clap puller it wont work or if it does it will screw something up... yea just clean everything up really well before you put it back together...

no problem...Hope its something that simple...it could be a loose C clamp up at the engine side and possibly a loose gas cap in the rear b/c I think the tank needs to loose pressure to allow the fuel to go back in the tank...when I drained my system I had to let the fuel pump prime 3 times b4 I got fuel up front... theres other things that can cause the same problem it was just a thought for a start

mine never starts 1st go round like I keep the ignition turned over for like 5 secs or so B4 she fires up both my 87 and 95 were like that but never turn the key all the way off and back on to start (except when i busted my tbelt then she would never start )... its also possible that you have a leak in your fuel line somewhere and it let all the fuel drain to the tank and after a couple of tries it primed back up and you then had fuel to get ignition

NSK is pretty good if i recall...I believe you will have to pull both LH and RH cam gears off (they are grooved so they only go on one way just make sure you know that RH is drivers side and LH is pass side...once those are off that will let you access the 4 or 8 bolts holding the back side of the timing belt cover on making it easier to remove the cam seals and cams if it is going to be a couple of days make sure you keep the lifters good and oiled up so the internal passages dont try out...I'd replace the Tstat while I was that far in and theres some coupling hose that people have had issues with (paging slick) and I would def do the water pump and valve cover gaskets along with the intake gasket...

I may be able to help you out this coming weekend if you need it...I would have to run it past the gf who will yell at me b/c my pathy still isnt running and I always work on other peoples stuff but if you really need the help I can see how far of a drive it is..if not I can at least walk you through a good bit of it on the phone if you get stuck

no no dont pull that...just pull the radiator out with the shrouding and you will have a ton of room...when I get home from work I'll send you a message with some additional help...where are you located anyways?

no...put a bucket under the RH side...pull the skid plate and take the lower rad hose loose... theres also a drain plug on the block...after busting 2 cheap rad plugs i just do the lower hose and call it good...makes a lil mess but its ok...

engine in or out? with it sitting on jackstands or with the t-bars hooked up and fully cranked? if the engines out or its on jackstands I would assume that you will have some issues with clearances...esp with any flexure so just keep that in mind before going out and running some trails

in the garage I've got my craftsman roll box that mom got me for Xmas last year (she got it really cheap which was great b/c I felt bad when i saw it b/c at full price it would have been like 3-4 weeks pay for her) it has all different brand tools from snap-on and mac to gumby tools found on the side of the road and in JY's but it has my "mechanics tool set" by champion (sears knock off brand that I think is better than craftsman that mom got me when I was 16) which has done 95% of the work on my pathy's and a ton on other cars I also have 1 of those molded craftsman boxes for the 253 piece sets to carry around with me which I got on sale the day after thanksgiving like 2 years ago for $100 off... and since speaking of tools and boxes...a good cheap way to pick up new tools for cheap is go to pawnshops and find cheap busted sockets/wrenches and whatever else by craftsman/snap-on/mac and whoever else has a lifetime warranty and return them for brand new tools...

so you dont have to follow the link....

very carefully...theres a little strip on the inside edge that goes between the light assembly and truck body that likes to tear loose so be careful of that...I gotta go dig around and see if I still have those lights and see if I recalled correctly...

nope no seam...your best bet would be get a sawsall and go to a u pull it yard and get the back corner and take it to a body shop..if the flexing gets too bad in that area you will eventually bust the back glass I would suspect that it would rip over to the glass then follow either up or down on the glass and then down the top or bottom edge of the glass whichever path it took prob the bottom path and then across over to the triangle window granted that may take 10+ years but if its wheeled a lot and flexed it could happen a lot sooner...i'd get it fixed right to ensure the truck lasted a while more...

I havent heard of it...to me it looks like there has been a whole corner piece spliced in back there from about an inch below the start of the top of the glass all the way down to about halfway up the fuel door... that part of the body doesnt seem like it would be a high stress area b/c most of your loads are transfered in the corners...if one were to rip I would guess it would be the rockerpanel area that would go 1st where you get most of the body twisting...there arent any seams in that area either so that makes me believe it was repaired at sometime esp if theres bondo...might not be the prev owner but maybe the owner before that and kept i quiet... I think a body shop could fix that without a problem with slow and easy spot welding until its done

my fuel pump had 250k miles on it when I pulled it after busting my engine and swapping in a 95 (higher PSI requirements) it had barely any dirt on the screen in the tank...if you would like a spare I still have it and I have no use for it was actually going ot list it on ebay...make me an offer it then if it goes bad you can change it in a matter of about 30 mins or so on the side of the road if the rear carpet doesnt give you a hassle

new and old...I hadn't seen that 1 B4...but i did like this comment.... they got the exact same and my 87 tended to get a lil better gas mileage...

ahh good point I forgot about the rubber hoses up front...I was just thinking about the rear axle which I dont relaly see the need to put the braided back there but we did it on wheelmans and they were pretty pricey from what he said and then it kinda leaves the lines out there to snag something and rip off...but yea up front the steel braids may be nic

haha yea...I have done it 2 times now...once while working on it and was a lil intoxicated and was testing my relay forgetting it was in gear and bumped it and I moved forward...luckly I have pretty good reflexes even after a couple... and the other night I was trying to hit the hella lights and hit the damn ignition toggle instead...guess I need to separate those a lil bit more... I did the same thing in my buddies chevy one night b/c he didnt have a shift pattern and I assumed that 1st was down and to the left and he neglected to tell me that was R and he was backed into a spot that was right on the edge of a nice steep cliff behind it where there wasnt a curb...so having the reaction time when I tried to turn the ignition far enough over to hit the cab light she jumped backwards and cranked...lukcly I was fast enough to get on the clutch and brakes to keep us from going over...he then rewarded me for the sweet save by allowing me to do a couple burn outs and light to light runs

dont the HB fenders flare out more? the interior will swap from a pathy to a HB with some work on my many ventures to the u pull it yard in charlotte I met the same guy about 5 different occasions and got to know him pretty well where he was stripping pathy parts and building up his HB he had put the pathy grill and headlights in his along with the bumper and did the dash, door panels, A pillars and I think thats about it the real answer is anything will fit with enough time and effort but a lot of times its not worth it If im not mistaken you an pull the lens from the taillight and apply brake fluid (or any other paint remover) and it will lift the yellow and red out of the plastic leaving a clear lens...I accidentally had a bottle of fluid spill over on wheelman's smoked taillights and I know when I tried to get the fluid off inside and out I got a bunch of red dye from the inside but I don't remember if it went completely clear or not...I'm thinking it did but maybe not

braided lines are nice but expensive...brake lines are pretty cheap and pick up a bender and a flaring tool and I think you could redo all of your brakes for about 1/2 the cost of braided lines..get a brake line wrench it will make life easier b/c a reg wrench will round them off...lost of experience on this and it sucks b/c then you get into the vice grips and channel locks...makes a nasty mess for the next person...and i have been on the giving and receiving end of that 1