unccpathfinder

if you see on the brackets you have a ball and on the lift arm you have a socket...I simply took a hacksaw and carefully cut the socket (strong arm) off of the ball and used the old ball instead of the one supplied

thats the Compression Rod if I'm not mistaken...do as suggested and check your frame for wear where it connects...I'm going to guess its find b/c of the bushing but if i is worn you will need to probably have it blown out and have a sleeve welded in or something to that affect...

i believe that is your charcoal canister if they have one of those? but from that link it looks you have a vaccum leak somewhere dealing with emissions... did you just fill up it could be the gas cap? http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gen...malfunction.php

My 87 has has this issue since I purchased it when I was 16 (so almost 6 years ago)...Getting to the short rows on my 2 year long project and I decided to clean her up the other day and that molding really pissed me off so I figured if I couldnt get it back in I would replace it or do some RTVing...(sorry no pictures) I slid the molding out carefully and tried not pulling so that it broke off the christmas tree extrusions...I then hosed all the junk that had built up in the tracks which took a while and that was a good explanation to y it wouldnt go back in they were full of crap.... I then went through and pulled out as much of the loose/stringy silicone that squeezed out when they put the glass in and then slapped the molding in I cleaned up the backsides of the moldings they were too full of crap I laid them out in the sun for a while b/c they had deformed since being out of the tracks and then slid them in and down the track (not beating them in perpendicular) and for the sections that were deformed I carefully bent them and slid them into place I did this 2 weeks ago and none of them have popped back out as of yet and I took it for a drive this past weekend and nothing fell out so I guess this is a pretty good fix This may need to go to the how to's but I figured it only applied for the 2 drs

I've had mine get rusted in on my 95 and my 87 but with enough twisting they came loose...1 time the bulb broke loose from the base but no biggie...I guess I could have mentioned that you remove it from the front but I didn't really think about that... when you finally get it out and replaced I would put some of that dielectric grease on it to keep it from rusting/corroding b/c a lot of times I would have to pull my bulb and clean the contacts and it would continue to work...

is it one that goes up and down or fixed...if fixed yes...if motorized no...but the fender is easy to remove... or you can get a new FM antenna and mount it somewhere else...

you can also search the you pull it lots...I got one off of a 94 and put it on my 87...Think I paid like $20 for it

did you check the connector under the dash?

I wouldn't pay 3k for a 2wd truck personally (being a 95 that is) although out here in cali there is a lot of baja stuff...i just moved out here from the east coast and out there you pretty much have a useless truck/suv if its not 4x4 unless its a grocery getter...I kinda wish I would have gotten a 2wd truck now instead of a car but I really needed the MPG's and in my book one of the biggest sins is a 2wd truck

im prob a lil late but getting the fuel lines loose can be a lil PITA...the lock ring was stubborn on mine as well...I would make sure all the dirt is cleaned from around it B4 removing the pump b/c then it will drop in your tank which wouldnt be good

its going to be a hellofa lot cheaper for you to figure it out then pay someone else to...and a lot of places if they find the problems then some places wont release the vehicle until its repaired (i think thats a law in some states)

are you pushing in on the bulb and twisting?...if you break one make sure its not your hand against the bulb and then if it breaks use needle nose pliers

If no1 chimes in PM 88Pathoffroad may know but by searching around you will find it...I think its 33 but as long as you give them the year you will get the right ones...Make sure to replace the studs with ones not provided by warn I used regular grade 8 bolts (not from lowes or home depot)

get vent visors and bend up a clothes hanger so it will slide over the lock and store it in your trailer hitch...I made the hanger after locking my keys in my truck in my buddies driveway while showing him to "hold the handle up" on my 87 well he finally figured it out right after I showed him...and yes the keys were in the front seat so I bent the hanger and he was like you'll never get it bent it and got in in less that 5 mins...so I stuck it in the side of my hitch and looped it around the bolt so it would lock into place and it stayed there for about 4 years before it finally got too rusty and I removed it but I got to use it a couple of other times when my keys were inside and I just needed to get something out of it...

nope just as casey said... they're pretty straight forward to replace...an engine hoist helps so do the factory lifting points (my 87 had them) but the rest of the engines i've seen I havent seen them so I just attach them when I need to move an engine it keeps it nice and balanced

drop in time to time with or without troubles and you can possibly help someone if they get into this and have a problem not discussed

I didnt even remove the pin...my 95 is a turn buckle with a jamb nut so I just climbed under there with a wrench and adjusted it

yea...well my 95 the cruise wouldnt set and then it would and if you hit coast or cancel it wouldn't react and then about 5 months later the horn went out...lemmie see if I can dig up that post where I shimmed the ring down(I was cheap and didn't have time to run out and get new copper cylinders so I took the plate to them instead of them to the plate... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...1&hl=cruise its the last post

I think AC has the sway aways...nice find...check that the frame is not rotten...

the gage cluster connects on the LH side beneath that air vent where the cruise button is...maybe a loose connector as zonian said... you could have 2 diffent problems occuring though...when you hit the "cruise" button do you see the cruise light on the cluster? if yes then does your horn work? the reason I ask this is I had the copper button for the horn/cruise wear down and quit making contact so I shimmed it up and it was fixed...

theres a bolt on either side its actually the bolt head on the opposite end of the green arrow on the right side but yes you are correct

check out some of caseyT's posts he's got a good write up...and it can be done pretty easily esp since you have both vehicles at your disposal...

I honestly dont think its a roll cage right now (maybe work into one)...I believe its just holding the roofrack up so he could throw that big ass tire on top

your only sensor is the ABS valve on the passenger side it sounds like it may need to be bled if the MC is good and you dont have any other leaks in the system...theres a post somewhere around here that I made not too long ago on the bleeding order...if the ABS valve has air in it I believe that will set the light off...and air in the system gives you soft brakes and so does a bad MC

in NC he would have ot have flares so that less than 2" of the tire is sticking beyond the flares...but they rarely stop for that... I bet that thing has a ton of body roll...I think I would have at least dual shocks too