unccpathfinder

the finish is only as good as the surface prep...rattle canning is ok...I've done it on several parts and masked off areas and did touch ups...if you want it to look factory I wouldnt rattle can it b/c i dont think your going to get a perfect match... as far as shops...it depends on how many coats you put and clear coats and the quality of the paint and what not...maaco may do it pretty cheap...but their cheap coats will fade over time...

my 1st pull took about 6 hrs by myself...

I was also thinking that you could set up a toggle with a relay for the taillights/headlights for a cheap simple fix...

i would think missing coedes were probably in the prototype ECMs and they decided to not need them and got rid of them for one reason or another...I know when I was at freightliner they did things like that...the other would be that they started with lines 1 5 10 15 and added codes as they went (you generally do this in CNC coding in case you need to add something and it makes it easier)

yea man...full nissan engine (dont know what state it is unless you investigate) but its only like $140...I almost pulled a rear end damage one...until I showed up 10 mins after they opened (scoped it out the night B4) and some chinese #$!&^% had began beating on it and had punched a hole in the oil pan cut the timing belt and was in the process of breakin the intake manfiold open with a BFH...he was trying to get the distributor...i showed him how and he left but I didnt want to take my chances after what he had done to it... www.pull-a-part.com check their prices its crazy and it was the cleanest JY i've ever been to...I almost got a chevelle hood and fenders just to keep/sale b/c they were perfect and original...i miss getting up early on sats to go...

depends on where you get it from...i bet a JY tries to charge $400 for it and that may be stripped... now at the u pull it yard I used to go to has prices like this: and that would include strong arms wing hinges and anything else you could remove that was still attached to it... Part Name With With Core Standard As-Is Price Warranty Charge HATCH W/GLASS $33.93 $5.99 N/A

wow $500 installed was that with a clutch and flywheel (resurfacing)? if so that'd be completely worth it...

hey got a picture of it...does it take an act of congress to ship to the islands...i've got one out of an 87 if it'll work... sell it to ya for like $10 plus shipping with the non intermident switch and all that jazz...lemmie pull the pictures off...I was going to list a bunch of parts tonight on ebay so if its what you need we can work something out...i'll upload a picture after dinner... worked great till i did my engine harness swap and its been in a rubbermaid tote ever since...if you dont want the connectors/wires from the factory harness i'll keep those if not they're yours...the only issue with it is the white lettering is rubbed almost completely off of everything

is the engine actually jumping around or is it just the RPM gage? my gage went bonkers all the time...

I'm pretty sure the studs break then the manifold warps...if you dont replace the broken studs and then put thorleys on I'm pretty sure with time you will warp those as well...as metal (and most objects) heats up it expands and depending on the temperature it can change grain structure when it cools this also changes the properties of the metal so if it is not bolted down properly the metal will deform (warp)... change the bolts to some good grade 8 studs and get the manifold machined or get throleys and a good gasket and you wont have to worry about a leak

get away from that game... Welcome back...sorry I never got around to that bumper...glad to see your doing ok and back into the swing of things...

I tore my boot a long time ago( i think it was keeping all the fluid in cuze the seals musta been gone) and didn't notice it until I had the positive cable rub throuhg on the frame and melt my battery...so i fixed that...mind you I just drove 5 hrs across NC in snow/ice and still had 2 hrs to go...so after walking a mile in the cold to find the fire alarm had been pulled at the gf at the times dorm I finally got a batteyr and taped up the cable so we could finish the rest of our journey i jump in and hit the cltuch and it went to the floor and stayed...checked and no fluid saw the boot was ripped up...filled it up with fluid and drove the rest of the trip...the next day was spent replacing that and the battery cable I would say get a new slave cylinder or slave cylinder rebuild kit...

sounds like a leak somewhere...check the boot on the slave cylinder and inspect the lines and make sure the CL MC isnt leaking (it will leak either on the outside or inside right above the pedal down the firewall and under/on the carpet....

i think the tape would make worse problems for the pacesetters

Alright here are the results...It's not as clean as I'd like it but I'm going to work on that...I dont think it looks too bad...I thought about maybe doing other folks if they want it done but I'll have to clean it up a lil...

can you jump it with the new alty or does nothing happen? it could be that the bad alternator killed the battery...also what was wrong with the alt...was it just not charging or was the voltage regulator bad...if it was the regulator its possible that you fried some stuff...check all your fuses and that jazz

yep...your screwed.. did you check all the lines to make sure you didn't burn through one or break one? you just did a lot of work on it right? that would be my start

I think a shop would charge about $600-$800 to do it

so is it a MT or AT? if its the MT the fluid change isnt going to help the throwout bearing and you want to make sure you use GL4 b/c I guess GL5 kills the tranny (i've used GL5 and havent had any issues but maybe i'm just lucky) and you want to make sure you get the qty right b/c they put the fill plug in the wrong location so it needs to be filled from the top (through shifter) or lean the truck (never used this method)

thats where i is on everything (wd21s and HBs) from 86.5-95 unless someone did some relocating

looks like W/P area...there a weep hole on the underside of the snout on the pump...thats where it would be coming from unless its a gasket...if its all gummy/wet there then its the pump...it could also be the t stat housing or a couple small hoses back behind the t belt housing...does the w/p look new...and how long ago was this belt and pump done... its not completely impossible that a brand new pump would start leaking...my buddy had 1 do that on his camaro and it wasnt reman it was brand new nad started leaking 2 days later with bad bearings...luckly its not as bad as the nissan one to do

so is it fixed now? Also make sure the plug wires seat all the way down into the dizzy cap...I had some issues with the wires that wheelman had on hat engine I got from him and evidently he had been driving it a while with them "disconnected" the boots didnt let the wire seat into the cap and you could see all of the arc's where it had been missing...I guess the impact of the wreck knocked 2 loose b/c it ran like ass and then I did some inspecting and got it fixed B4 I gave him the yea I want it...

buying an engine isnt always the result...but a rebuild of the heads at a minimum unless you are lucky enough to not bend anything (this has occured a couple times from what I've heard) I've broken one and I ate 3 valves and doing the work myself set me back like $300...when you do it or have it done change the water pump and cam seals and theres a couple of other things you can have done to make sure you dont have to pay for the labor again on that...search around and you will find lots of information on this...

adjust it...theres a turn buckle on the underside...follow the cables back to where they join into one and you'll find it...just PB it up B4 trying to tighten it... I think you could also check the drums to make sure the shoes are set properly... Geaux Tigers

I ran 31's on my 87 and 95...the 95 had to get some trimming of the front valence (the nice curved one not the boxy one) and removal of the fender flares even after a lil crank of the t-bars but the backspacing on those wheels was different...and those were BFG A/Ts The 87 ran 31" Dunlop mud rovers and would rub the frames if you turned all teh way but the way to fix that is to adjust the bump stops...I just knew when to stop turning and it didn't kill my radius all that much...I didn't do any cranking on those bars either but it didnt have the flares