unccpathfinder

either a bad relay or fuse...the fuse runs right off the battery box and its inline...if you popped it as soon as u put a new 1 in it'll pop...search on rewiring fog lights...its common...

sweet...yea I'm still goofing off in getting my 87 back to a road worthy condition...But I'm having serous withdrawals since I dont even have the 95 to drive around and beat on...ohh well look fwd to your pix

theres one in the parts for sale I think I always knocked it to "impact" so I had a peskey spare tire carrier and it rocked the truck pretty good and soemtimes it was after I slammed the hatch and closed the tire and I sat down in the truck then the nazi alarm started screaming

sweet I may have to get information from you...I'm in california city and havent found any JY's yet but I used to go almost every sat morning in CLT to the pull-a-part there and you couldnt beat they're prices and there was always good stuff to find...I got my brush guard there for like $23 I think

I'd check with a multimeter all the way back to the headlight switch after checking both bulbs...I assume theres a relay for it as well so it could just be a bad relay for the tail lights...I'll try to check around and see but my FSM is on the other computer which is buried under 2 others right now...

yea...its really easy with air tools... If you check out my link above you will see kinda that it was post removal...I would love to have your engine as a spare but now instead of being an hr away I'm about 35 hrs away honestly if you just have a RMS leaking and the engine has less that 300k on it and it hasnt given you a lick of problems...me personally I wouldnt swap it...I would just replace the RMS and other gaskets as required...but thats me...I bought my 87 with 192k on it and drove it till it had something like 250k where the engine broke for the 2nd time (both breaks were my fault) even though it was knocking like a SOB it still had great compression...so I have good faith in the nissan engine...just make sure you saw the engine your replacing yours with either bench tested or driven and then removed or they have some warranty but it would really suck to do all that work to turn around and have to remove it again...been there done that and it sucks...if the engine has sat for a while that your are replacing with...change the oil pump I know a guy that did 4 swaps in 1 HB (they own a JY) and he had 3 oil pumps go bad just from sitting and had to do it 4 times before they got it done and sold...sorry to jack the thread but I just figured it could be valued information b/c sometimes what you have already is better...

no problem...you could crank that 1 if you wanted while holding a wrench on the bolt facing the ground but it would take forever... good luck

Theoretically, yes you could do that. I don't have much experience in A/F mixtures but I would think that if you could maintain that stability you could use dual TBs The way to go about the dual TBs I would think is to monitor the signal to the fuel injector and then create a module that would take the signal from the ECU and then send an equivalent signal to both injectors...my thought process is if you split the signal it will decrease and not preform properly so if you had a control unit that could make sure the right signals got to the injectors you should be in fat city with the exception of maintaining your AF mixtures. I suspect if the AF mixture is proportional to the original then the O2 wont have a problem with it just a thought to get the ball rolling...may be completely off base but it makes sense to me in theory...

you can leave the switch on all the time as listed above in the previous 2 posts... I dont think that is the case b/c I would always accidentally turn mine on when I was cleaning my truck and wouldnt find out until I went somewhere like the grocery store and open the back hatch and halfway through unloading it would go off so I'd sprint to open the door and put the key in the ignition and turn it on to get it to go off

you can remove the TC with the engine removed if you like but yea you need to access them from the front side of the engine (heres the link to I'm a Dumbass thread on getting the TC out http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...rter&st=20) ...I hadn't ever dropped an auto B4 and didn't know any better so the TC stayed with the engine until I needed it off to put it in my manual 87 theres 4 PITA bolts front side as slick mentioned and then I think theres 11 on the tranny side but that could be wrong...I would leave some of those threaded in partially until you have everything loose and are read for it to come out...it would be a bad day if it happened to fall on you also make sure you have all the electrical stuff disconnected and of course your drive shafts out of there along with everything else but I'm sue you've done all that already

ehh we all do things wrong now and again...sometimes it hurts more than others... did you break the jamb nut free on the top side of the torsion bolt? like you have the end facing you (the ground) and it goes through the X member...then you have a nut on the bottom side and should have 1 right above that (its the jamb nut to keep it from backing off due to vibration) loosen the jamb nut up a could threads then put a back wrench on the other one (bottom nut on the top side of the X member) while holding that crank the one facing you...if you tighten it it should give you lift... to make sure its turning you can mark the threads so you have a visual...I htink about 10 full revolutions is about 1/2" of lift or so

I assume you lifted the truck off the ground (front end) if so they yes did you move the truck after it was dropped back down...this willl change that camber a little bit...did you happen to measure from the ground to the wheel well height on the fender? that will be where you see the difference you may not notice it by eye... also the bars could be sagging so bad that you need to reindex them I have not read 88's write up but I'm sure he mentioned that you need a back wrench b/c if not you will just be cranking the bolt and it wont do any adjustments... ohh yea btw Geaux Tires

yep...loosen the nut then turn the rod to adjust it and then tighten the jamb nut back down

rust in the rear frames is what I was mainly referring to...body rust is a non issue...but when structure has major damage then thats when it can get interesting

this button your referring to is the "A/C" button correct if so it seems like your describing what its supposed to do... and if it stopped blowing cold air and you push the button in and it doesnt turn green...its very possible that you have lost pressurization in the A/C system which happened to occur randomly with popping the cig lighter fuse which is onluy shared with the overhead lights IIRC

if its been taken care of it'll run forever...they take abuse pretty well but search around for the issues to look out for...mainly rust and make that a #1 priority in the decision...

just make sure you dont bake your paint...

I'll go with...piece of trash in the cylinder welded to the piston/head and it knocks as it hits the TDC...thats what my 87 did when I changed the plugs...I bet I could still be driving it but I didn't want to risk it...but after it intially happened the sound did get quieter after about 15 mins but it was still there you did prim them up correct? if they have a lack of oil that would cause them to stick and then knock? or possibly the lifter assembly has an oil just clogged up and it doesn't put oil through to the lifters...

1 image comes to mind...

not sure I quite follow that statement but you should have a + and - for each speaker 2 rear and 2 front...so 8 wires total (4 + and 4 -)

if you have those "beauty" rings they get stuff caked behind them a lot...do you have mudders if so you may have ripped a lug off or anything listed above...

see mine came with the ball studs but mine were riveted in as coaz stated...so I didnt want to drill itout and tap the bracket b/c I knew it wouldnt work right for me so I just carefully cut the socket and popped the new one on...

if its the non power antenna it can be done without removing the fender...but its easier and faster to do it with the fender removed...

correct... summertime is a good time about 2 years ago I was pissed at the driver side poking out and I wacked it and being winter it broke in half...but it never came back out again I was pretty amazed that it held...The track they put in actually has ridges to grab the christmas tree fittings but I think once they come out that RTV and dirt keep it from holding...I tried pulling mine back out and it wouldnt come...I've seen many comments about it not being worth it to pull from a yard and/or trying to reuse the old so I figured I'd throw it out in case some1 wants to try it instead of waiting 4 years and then finally saying what the hell and do it anyways and it works...not saying it'll work for everyone but it worked for mine...

it is possible to have a bad gas cap but it's more likely that you have a leak somewhere else...and yea the evap can is the same as the charcoal I googled around and found a bunch of stuff on maxim's and altima's so I believe the same issues could be present in the pathy b/c they are ultimately the same systems as far as powerplants