unccpathfinder

yea...hope you did the w/p too and if not I hope Murphy doesnt get you

loosen the rockers back up...and pull the dizzy back out (next time you dont have to remove it) turn the RH cam back to the alignment mark and slide the dizzy back in (make sure the adjustment screw is about in the middle so you have adjustment in both directions...adjust the rotation of the dizzy until the rotor is at the right position (i think its right before it makes contact with the #1 tab on the dizzycap which as long as the timing belt is off no...unless you roll the truck while its in gear or manually turn it over with a wrench or jump in and try to start it and the starter is still hooked up then you will have to reset the crank once you loosen the rockers up (since you have the intake off still hopefully) and you ahve the dizzy back where it needs to be then align both of your cam marks and verify the crank mark and count your teeth and then tighten it down and you should be good... Just check everything and verify it...I always feel like I just screwed it all up...and most of the time its just me being paranoid esp when I'm passing into new territories

I dont have my book with me but if you google around you can get an idea for OD/ID and thickness and also get a good idea of lb/ft and that is where I would look I would say probably something that has 1/8" wall thickness will be pretty more than sufficient maybe thinner for the bumpers and you have to decide if you want to go with a 1 tube design or 2, 3 or 4 round tubes of if you want to go with square tubing... I made a rear bumper out of a WD21 frame which I chunked b/c it was so freakin heavy and I moved across the country but it was good welding practice I liked the frame rail idea and if I could have lightened it up I would have probably used it but I needed a plasma cutter to do that effectively you also want to make sure that your welder can handle the thickness that you are going to be welding...I have done mostly 110 welding and the joints seem to be strong for something like a bumper or roofrack but I would't use it to build structural/suspension members...I tested it and tried to break them (jumped up and down on them and beat the hell out of them with a hammer) and didn't get any cracking... Know its not exactly what your looking for but maybe give you some idea's and with the frame if you go squared you can measure the frame height to get an Idea of how tall it is...

I know NC doesnt require reverse lights... he has turn signals...look on either side of the radiator...vertically...

just be careful with it b/c if the mileage doesnt change with inspections or oil changes it will be reported as an odometer fraud vehicle and could be hard to sale if that day ever comes

that looks cool...I may have to get a couple of those and maybe some stickers too...I need to go back and read the thread but could you do custom slogans on the back...i know the FIND YOUR PATH is a punnish kinda slogan but I kinda think MAKE YOUR PATH is more punctual (although it may lead people to believe that you dont follow the tread lightly motto)

yes the air/fuel maps are different...I dont know if it will work or not but with that being said I have a good cali ECU out of my 87 pathy...you will need to cross check #'s as well

thats the 1

napa can look it up for you I believe

all of my rockers and springs look brown on all 3 of my nissan engines didn't know it was a bad thing

but sorry I dont have any pictures. I tried looking online but it doesnt seem that they update their website with readers rides...if someone get the magazine they may try to scan it in but it looked pretty cool its up in SD. sorry for not having a pic of it...i did google around though and couldnt find it

did you check it really well for FOD (nails/screws and whatever else could be in there) I had a nail wear the head off of it and it clicked and I never could find it until I got new tires...it never lost air or anything like that...just a thought what about beauty rings on the wheels rocks can get trapped in those as well or something in the drum or possibly the dust sheild is bent and it hits the drum... also I have had a "clicking" from up front where I got some pretty ****** brake pads from advance and the shims slid off and started hitting the hubs and clicked 6 times per revolution so you may want to check that out as well

nope just be careful with those phillips head screws and make sure you get all the coolant lines hooked back up when you reinstall it...I am having a hellof a time finding my leak and its from one of those on the rear side that goes to the intake only serious conversations are allowed on this board just wanted ot make sure i was in the right

another thing you may be able to do is jack both rear tires up and rotate them since your LSD it will be easier with both wheels off the ground (i dont even know if you can do it with just one off) some1 else may know but does an LSD click like a locked rear end? I dont think it does but I havent ever experienced one well thats good bearings you can get at any parts store I think but I have had issues with getting the front outter bearings to fit over the spindle due to bad cross over references I dont know about the tool...autozone didnt have it in NC but then again the guy may not have known what he was talking about so it cant ever hurt to go check

no dice on p/n's I can take measurements still if you would like...just lemmie know (and send me some pix please if you get time and this is that particular pathy)

nope thats for the front but that looks awfully a lot like mine trying to locate Nissan part number and image...be back momentarily....the thing with the rear is the axle shaft has to fit down the middle of the part so you could make 1 if you have a welder or strap wrench and means of removing the center of whatever socket you can find that will work

if it happens to someone else you can take it to a shop and you can put it on a lift and run it in 4x4 to make sure its in deed working or put it on some pavement in 4H and you will know if 4x4 is working or not...both are not great for the t case but its a quick check before going through a bunch of unneeded work

manual swap could be a lot cheaper if you have time to acquire good cheap parts...

I know being on a budget is tough but from what i've read its better to go with the thorley's and the set on his truck that i purchased look good still without any rusting just some discoloration from heat but thats expected...

I've got an extra set of heads i'll see if its etched on them but I doubt it...can nissan provide you with the dealer PN b/c that may be easier to x ref to find more parts...or how about me measuring the keys?

im kinda late on this 1 but I have the exact same idea but left everything in dash and pulled the lines and compressor...I have not fabbed up brackets for the alt but I want to run all of my accessories off of it adn possibly a welder...I did tape off my evap openings in case i ever go back and put ac on but highly unlikely i got the cond out by removing the grill as you said and left the bumper in tact...

I know there is a tool is for the locknut

wheelman had thorleys on his 95 auto...I put the 95 engine in my 87 with a manual and it fit without any issues...

in my 87 i ran reg casterol all the time..then i got the bright idea to change to the high mileage and it started leaking like a sieve

your not going to be able to see much...and have the band-aides ready...the door is a PITA to work on I broke my driverside handle off 1 night and it took me 2 hrs to replace it b/c of that stupid lil actuator arm and clips (and probably not having the right tools) You didn't to begin with? Dang... I used to open mine all the time for the gf...but 2 years later I got power locks with the remote and that went out the window...so now she gets it if I come to her door 1st or if I'm feeling like a good ole boy