unccpathfinder

yep I do not believe that is a completely true statement...or maybe just a warning should be added ot make sure the idle is set back to the original position it'll run without the O2 and run pretty good when I 1st was testing the swap i ran it without an O2... still couldnt pinpoint my coolant leak so i didnt get a chance to warm it all the way up and let it throw more codes if its going to...I was just curious as to how it handled multiple codes Thanks for the replies

support it and slide it backwards so that the input shaft comes out of the clutch/engine/flywheel thorleys have 2 down pipes (or at least the sets i've seen do) that collect on the driverside like teh stock set its best to weld in the middle but I think a compression band can be used as well what all do you have disconnected? you need to have all your plumbing and electrical disconnected...i would disconnect the clutch slave cylinder from the tranny as well as the electrical stuff in case it decides to fall it wont rip up all of that stuff...shifter linkage and all that has to be disconnected (set of snap ring pliers help but I always use needle nose since the ring is so stiff) pretty much if everything in the FSM that is supposed to be removed is removed then yes it can be pulled...make sure you get the bolts going from the engine side into the tranny removed or it wont separate i missed those the 1st go round and got really pissed b/c it wouldnt come out then i found those a tip for the tranny bolts...dont pull them all the way out until u're ready to move the tranny...this way if it shifts and goes to fall the bolts will keep it in and keep you safe/alive also keep the motor mount bolts tight until the tranny is removed and the engine is supported by the hoist...a ratcheting wrench will help for the mount bolts on the drivers side...

Very good advice...I had a buddy who welded for the 1st time ever on his trans am for some bracketing where he put a locked ford 9" in...I told him that A. I would get more than a 110V welder to do it B I would get a pro to do it since he has right at 500RHP...He didnt listen and the welds cracked (luckly there are bolts that go through the plate into the subframes so it did not come apart on him but he has since reground and welded several times...but still wont take my advice on getting a pro to do it...I suggested that we paid Richard a visit b/c I know he's good with his metal working and wouldn't over charge...but ohh well when I started learning I practiced with all different sheet thicknesses and some tubing including some chopped up pathy frame rails with a 110V wire feed and it took time to dial it in but when I started building a bumper out of frame rails i did the fat ass test and laid it across 2 tires and jumped up and down on it probably 100 times (probably about 500lbf assuming my jumps were about 2g) on the front and rear side and didnt get any cracking so I assume that they were good enough welds for something like a bumper...

sweet thanks...

Finally got around to diagnosing the 87 to see what the SES light is all about...I got code 13 which is engine coolant temp circuit (which I removed not thinking it would negatively impact anything and installed an aftermarket gage...dumb me) my question is for the self diagnoses does it start with the lowest code and go up from that...i know I have more than just the coolant circuit thats bad but it only flashes the 13 so I didnt know if it flashed all codes or shows the 1 it experiences 1st or what... the truck runs like ass and im almost 100% sure its not the engine coolant temp causing that (unless its making the ECM go crazy)...I'm going to start with this and see if that corrects it if not I guess i'll scan for more codes...the fsm doesnt really go into detail on multiple codes in the self diag setting Thanks edit: just tried it out and the error is gone and the idle straightened up a lot and it doesnt seem to studder anymore...I also found that the intake had come loose on my journey across the country so with those 2 it seems as if it fixed it right up...i didnt get it up to operating temp right now b/c I cant keep coolant in it so i know when I get that leak fixed I will get at least an O2 error since I dont have a heated sensor yet...but was still curious as to whether it will show more than 1 code at a time...

I believe thats when they were trying to sell it overpriced and I found like 5 or 6 of them on Ebay...

I've done gassless and some MIG...I like gasless for learning...I have been able to lay good beads without a lot of slag buildup...I have done gas a couple of times and it was way different than the gasless...the wirefeed needs to be a lot slower or you create these huge worm beads...its 1 of those things where I think no1 can really teach it to you (they give you the basics and then you figure it out from there) pick it up and do it and figure it out...I want to get a miller or a lincoln to start off with flux core but has the ability to expand to gas...I always watch the Sunbelt Rentals site for a good used 1 but I havent gotten 1 yet...the next hobby/toy is down to welder/guitar/xbox360 or wii...I think the gf will get me a wii or guitar so I wont spend more time in the garage but do get a chipping hammer and brush to make sure u have solid welds (i didnt really know about this and when I went back and checked all my welds they were good for the most part...a couple had slag buildup but most were even and all the slag was on top...

He's got the FSM... RTFB... read the friggin book?

no you have to pull the front drivehsaft to slide the tranny backwards... sawsalling is a bad idea...just causes more cost and work.... Check PMs and get lots of extensions and U joints...I think I used a 12" extension and a couple of 3" and 6" extensions with deepwell sockets and it made getting to the top 3 tranny bolts a cinch...

if you did change did you get the right amount of fluid back in? if you fill from teh fill plug I believe that will be the wrong fill level... when you flushed it you did bleed the system correct? if so then... it could be syncro's but I dont think all gears would go at the same time (my 95 has a bad syncro for 1st to 2nd and sometimes into 4th if the clutch isnt all the way...and if you know how to shift it right it wont grind)...I just reread and it sounds like it could be them...what is your pace of shifting...I usually have a pretty quick throw and I found out it would not grind from 1st to 2nd if I stayed on the gas a little shorter after pushing the clutch in to go to 2nd and then let the RPM's start dropping b4 going to 2nd it would not grind...so you may want to change the force and speed of the shifts...mine would not grind all the time just now and then usually when trying to pull some1 off the line from a light...I can also RPM shift it without grinding and that helped me gage my shift points and speeds...its been doing it for at least 2 years and i have not had it drop out on me...but as i mentioned it is periodic and mainly on the driver and how well they adapt to the truck... (my 87 in the cold you have to go towards 4th and drop into 2nd or it wont go..its never ground but it just simply wont go unless that is the shift path and its only when its like 45 and below...so i have different driving styles for both trucks)...I also noticed if you go to N at stops to get it in 1st without a grind if it was grinding, I'd push the clutch in wait like a second or 2 then shift to 1st and that would keep it from grinding if i did it normally it would grind... it could also be that your clutch is starting to go...does it ever slip...go find a steep hill get it in the highest gear possible and get it up to about 4500RPMS and see if you feel any slipping (if you cant feel it or dont know what ot feel for watch the tach if the speed remains constant but the tach still increases without any acceleration the clutch is slipping

check your fluid level...if its low check the slave cylinder boot...you should have noticed a change in pedal stiffness if it was that...since it was sudden and in all gears I would be willing to bet that you have a leak in the clutch system or possibly moister and maybe just need a flushing... I would also find the harmonic RPM's somewhere between 2500 and 2000 rpms to shift without using a clutch if you cannot find the problem right off the bat to help save the syncro's as much as possible

yea I thought they were too small for the T bars and the T bars dont have those funny ears...I'll go with the retainers for the U joints...

I wouldnt worry with swapping dashes and what not...you can change the speedo in the MT so that it is what u have...then get a clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, pedal asssembly and plubming...fix up the park interlock and you should be good...there are several writeups on here from AT to MT swaps...

you can kill the key release all together...a cable runs from a solenoid on the shifter...you can either pull the column cover off and pull the cable out of there or pull the cable from the shifter and use it as a release...or you can replace that solenoid...but make sure thats what it is 1st...I'd also make sure its going all the way into park...ever have any problems starting it?

a lot of people say its not worth it to bore the block...it just depends on if you will run the risk of blowing out an oil/water jacket... yea I think you made the right choice by tearing it down completely...do make sure you get a good set of ring expanders and the intaller sleeve(not sure what its called) I would also make sure that the rings are easy to get I have noticed that sometimes you can get 1 with a bad spot and if you go to expand the ring to install it, it will snap in half and if they are hard to get, that means more waiting...if there are some napa's around you should check them out they can usually get anything pertaining to rebuilds...and if you do a good bit of business there you can try to see if they will throw it on 1 of their business accounts to save you some $ (i knew a manager back home and got most things at cost then i got to know the guys in charlotte and they gave me about 10-25 % savings on most things)

I would ask the opinion of a trusted shop...if they think the walls can be honed and call it good or if they would recommend that it be bored and honed...I am not familiar with the thickness issues with nissan blocks but i know the older 350s had casting problems and it was always a good idea to get the cylinder walls sonic tested to make sure the thickness at a water jacket wouldnt get too close and cause an eventual blow out... I would think going 25 over would be the best if the cylinders are in good shape and do need machining...go the smallest you can in case you ever need to do this again the block isnt trashed b/c you cant bore it over any more...

i found that airtools work wonders on that...I had the same issue...this is prob ill advised but you can push the boot up and clamp a vice grip to the shaft and tighten...or press (hitting may work but I couldnt get it to work) the top of it to seat the tapered shaft into the spindle so that it wont spin anymore...they make special presses for removing and installing ball joints but a standard C vice should work... I wouldnt follow the vice grip advice but it worked for me in a jamb but is a bad idea esp if u tear the boot... good luck

nice write up...I sold a guy the tail shaft off of a driveshaft I had and it was a PITA to get that stuff apart...esp since I had never done it...I ended up using 2 blocks of wood a BFH a 6" extension and an old flat tip...I worked both ends loose after soaking it in pb by hammering them a lil on each side then I removed 1 side and carefully removed the other with the flat tip and gentle taps to get the cup off... I wish I would have had a press life would have been easier... the grease makes the needle bearings stay in real nice but make sure they're all there...1 of the 1's I pulled was missing 1...in that 2nd to last picture I hope thats some sort of cutting fluid/gasoline/or some other working fluid in that jar in the background Good write up...

the cylinder walls dont look horrible...but the rust on the top of the pistons where the rings are does and I would suspect where it looks scaly that it put some nice pits in the walls which would eat up the rings and burn oil and then start blowing oil out of the dipstick... I havent done a complete rebuild on a nissan engine b/c I dont have all the right tools to do it completely...I have rebuilt the top end and disassembled everything except for the bottom end on an altima engine (whose cylinders had that rust haze on it from sitting but no rust actually down in the cylinders (now that i think about it i bet thats where they pulled the intake and let the coolant run down in the cylinders)I didnt like the way it looked so I put the heads back on it and everything and did a compression check which came back good...then I got my 95 engine dash and wiring harness and didnt ever run that engine... I have rebuilt a couple of lawn mower engine completely and learned that letting the owner talk me out of taking it to the machine shop to bore out the cylinder was bad...it prob had a good 3000-4000 cutting hrs on it and started drinking oil b/c of the bad rings...so we honed it and I installed the new rings...it cut about 20 mins b4 billowing blue smoke and lost all compression...the cylinder was egg shapped from wear and needed to be bored over with an oversize piston/rings so now it sits and waits for me to come back home and do it again...the right way to remove the rust I coated a rag in motor oil and wiped it all down and it all came out so i wasnt worried about it... Slick has a good paint tutorial...send me a PM with what year pathy/egnine is and i'll possibly be able to give you some insight...

is this in 4wd on the beach...possibly spinning the tires and if its auto it trying to find the right gear? I got lots of miles in the sand in NC and never experienced anything like that...

thats some good KISS (keep it simple stupid) advice... I pulled the 95 with tranny attached wish I had pix...but its only cuze the front end was smashed so I just took the sawsall and i pulled the good driver side fender and then cut straight down and folded it over then she came out really nice...it made me think the next time I do this I may want to drill out all the spot welds and just pull the front clip off and then when reinstalling it put weld studs in so if I ever need to work like timing belt and what not I can just pop it off and have the whole front end open but I'm not sure if it would work I didnt pay that much attention to it... Any updates??

that looks pretty rough...I'd say do an entire rebuild...pull the pil pan then the cradle and then pop the connecting rods loose and pull the pistons out then pull the crank out and get it all checked out and machined as required...it looks like that thing had some water in the cylinders for a while...

5. looks like 1 of the studs around the water pump maybe for the tensioner? 6. looks like t bar snap rings or retainer clips for your u joints...

slick did you do install the clutch and flywheel before dropping the engine in?...the FA is a mother...I seriously thought about modding the oil pan (BFH) so the next time if there is a next time I wouldnt have to worry a bout it

make sure its not bolted in from the top side...it could be stripped as well...that will be no fun...if thats the case then you may have to take off that 1 sides manifold and jack the engine up and weezle it out (given that the other side comes loose) thats your call...take a look at it and see what it looks like if theres hot spots and what not change it but completely up to you...if it were me i'd change it and keep the old 1 as a spare if i got into a tight spot and needed to change it just to get it around make sure you put oil in the new 1 work it to the front as far as possible then disconnect the wires...or do as i did and let it hang down to the ground but make sure u undo the oil pressure wire 1st... yep very mad that i didnt just go ahead and do the oil pan gasket while i was 50% there when i did my last clutch so now it leaks