RedPath88

hmm if I had read this sooner I would have snapped a couple pics fro you. Mine is a 2Dr but the frames are the same design. You might think about finding one locally and taking a first hand look (maybe pics too) of one, or a wrecking yard. As I am sure you know, seeing it for yourself would be much better than just a picture

Yes, they suck! Not at first as JJ pointed out, but after a couple oil changes/movements of the fittings/hoses. Changed my oil tonight and now mine are leaking more that is acceptable, as nige defined. Looks like some solid barb fittings are in my near future now too

As Pezzy mentioned above (and Simon confirmed) Rough Country UCA's are the same as Superlift UCA's. In fact SL makes them for RC, I know this for sure because I originally bought some RC ones but a manufacturing flaw was found in the lot that mine were from, RC referred me directly to SL for replacements. The ones they sent me were SL branded arms. The only difference is that SL's are zinc coated and RC's are powder coated. And yes you usually do have to say that you are ordering them for a D21 Hardbody and not mention a WD21 Pathfinder at all. Hell, tell them you bent one and need replacements if that's what it takes (you bought the truck with them on it if they ask) I see that Steevo says he has some, give him a call @ Rugged Rocks and see what he can do for you too

http://www.dtccares.com http://www.dtccares.com/states.shtml

3+3=33's

I am not sure where these prices are coming from when they are "comparable" to an after market modified CL unless these are dealer prices, but JJ was right when he said that stock replacements were around $100. However, I recommend replacing it with a modified one if you intend on having the truck for a while and/or take it off road, because they will last a whole lot longer by eliminating the flex that is in the stock setup. I have a modified CL, originally built by Phil of L&P but it was such poor and unsafe construction (see sig and topic in the garage for further details) that Trailchaser reworked it for me. Now it is 100% better and safe for use. The difference a modified CL made was immediately noticeable. Steering felt sturdier, tighter and more responsive! The tech who did my original Lifetime Alignment at Firestone commented about it, he said that it was noticeably better just by looking at it and the way the steering system responded during the alignment. I have never had it inspected though as luckily we do not have to have that done in my area.

That's awesome DJ... hopefully it really is over and glad to hear that he paid up right away

US Military (Army/Air Force) "MANUAL FOR THE WHEELED VEHICLE DRIVER" Vehicle Recovery section is Chapter 22 (page 143 of the PDF) Link to the complete manual: http://www.transchool.eustis.army.mil/ADSO...es/fm21_305.pdf Link to Chapter 22: Vehicle Recovery, only: http://myweb.cableone.net/wdohrn/VehicleRecoveryCh22.pdf Additional info: The 4WDMonthly channel on YouTube has some instructional videos offering tips. http://www.youtube.com/user/4wdmonthly HiLift channel shows you how to use a HiLift jack as a winch along with instructional videos covering the use a of a HiLift in it's many forms. http://www.youtube.com/user/hiliftjacks *There was a really good video I watched on youtube a while back that showed and explained the setup of multiple snatch blocks on a single pull (iirc it ended up being a 7 line pull!) but I can't seem to find it right now, when I do I'll add it to the list Feel free to add more useful info/links to this

Agreed, I always count the teeth between the marks before I trust them as being right

Another thing, if the belt was rubbing enough to smoke then he should consider a new belt. Last thing he needs is for the rub to shorten the life of this belt and cause it to break on him

Wow good to hear your alright First crash... what dumbass's! Even 4Runners have a roll bar factory and teh front pillars are built to take a blow in a rollover. Second crash... if he was in fact on top, well then he's a dumbass too! That is always an option

Wow, I totally forgot this thread! I have not looked at it since before the 30i's came into it! I live over by Olympia and am very interested in this for my 88 30i. I have aftermarket cams installed and will hopefully be installing the headers sitting in the garage in the next couple months.. maybe sooner if I can get to it or come up with the extra cash if I must have a shop do it. If remapping the chip can allow the truck to take better advantage of the cams/headers then I am all for it. I'll start looking around for another ECU, if your up for it

umm, I meant.. and

Jeromy, First of all I am going to move this thread so it will hopefully catch more attention from other members Second, when buying any automotive parts (especially something as critical as a timing belt) you need to use extreme caution in my opinion. If you are sure you are getting a high quality part and the price is very good then it's not so bad. But it's hard to be sure of what you are getting until you have it in your hands

There are two tabs at the bottom, if you pull them out it will allow the glove box to be removed. Did you bait the trap?

Baited mouse trap is best and quickest option period Poison, if you "want" the chance of a foul odor and you feel the need to tear your truck apart Clean out the blower housing before the resistor catches its nest (if that is where it built it) or something else on fire.

No matter what you do, make SURE you follow that link and clean out motor case! Same story here, my 88 is bit slow when cold but once moving it will over heat the occupants!

Also if you know exactly what you are looking for you can post a requested in the "Parts Wanted" section of this forum

I also had a problem with it at Les Schwab (Tumwater, WA) couple days later I went to take a tire off and had to jump up and down on a breaker bar just to make the lug nuts move!! I called them up and got nowhere... drove down there and ended up having the raise my voice to near yelling, in a customer packed lobby, before they would do anything about it. And they fixed it in record time!

Although I have not mounted the basket yet, I have a bracket already made that allows it to bold the the side of my roof basket Where do you mount it now Mookie?

I was able to get my engine out (backed by a 5spd) but yeah, it was NOT easy, however it is possible.

Sure will, I did it on my 88

Oh geeze... I remember hearing that before too... disregard

That's not going to help him... "Nissan Idler Arm Gusset - 98-04 Frontier & Xterra 4x2/4x4" ...he has a 1991 WD21 Nevermind, they use the same parts!

Just after I bought my truck I had a run of ongoing and steadily increasing problems... I tried a lot of things people suggested even though i had a gut feeling I knew what it was. Couple months later it was completely undrivable, I finally said screw it and ignored every ones "new idea's" (guess's). I went to the wrecking yard and bought a used ECU, replaced it and she fired right up and ran smooth So yeah, it may be uncommon, but it's not unheard off