RedPath88

hmm, apparently not How about local search sites that offer reviews? Maybe you can find some guidance there?

I've set up a couple of cell's for tracking in the past, of those most used the GPS chip (if equipped) to get location and then transmits that info back to a website over a cell network (because the typical GPS device only receives), where you can then retrieve the location, usually on a map to make it easier for the human brain to comprehend. My current phone uses the GPS chip as a primary and then tries to supplement that info with Cell signal and local wifi information to try and increase accuracy. But the primary is still the GPS and keep in mind that this is one of the higher-end current phones. As for HTC phone's GPS not working after Sense was removed, it was probably due to the carrier's GPS chip access being integrated into Sense. Now this does not apply to all older or maybe even current phones because the carriers often lock out the GPS chip from use by anything but ther own paid service offerings. If the chip is not locked out then there are a number of programs that do this now, two of which I recommend based on my own experience with them. For families Life360 and for security/theft recovery (I recovered my stolen phone using this) Lookout But keep in mind that both of these, just like any other locating software for a cell phone, requires cell coverage to report its location.

With the time it takes to make such a Lo-Tek part, it better be good.

Remove the ducting and block the outlet under the drivers seat and mount it there?

Although I have not actually installed mine yet, my plan is to mount it in the same general location as 5523 has his amp, with heavy cables running back to it (so it can operate at full power) and a remote power switch. Although, since my truck came with an internal spare tire mount, I have a compartment there. Since I no longer use the mount for a spare I plan to remove it and place the inverter inside the compartment, with 1-2 fans for cooling, if required (# based on actual need.) Now for access, my plan is to wire outlets in throughout the truck, with 1-2 each up front, for the rear seats and the back cargo area.

If the fluid is clean then it should be ok, if can breakdown but it's unlikely. However, if there is air in that line then yes it will be a problem. Have you considered replacing the wheel cylinder (drums - $15-20) or caliper (Disks $50-60)?

Along the lines of what B said above, if the fluid is dirty looking it might be a good idea to change it as well. You can have a fluid exchange done professionally or siphon out the fluid in the reservoir yourself, pour clean in and bleed them until new, clean fluid come outs at each bleed point. Just be sure to monitor and top off the fluid level throughout the bleeding process.

There were several different springs/diameters used, so without that information there is no way to tell if something bought online will give you... no lift, or x amount of lift. You'll have to do your research here on the forums, ask sellers for specific information and pray that they are not lying. Then of course there is the age of the springs and just how fatigued they are... all that will play into the amount of lift they will, or will not provide.

Upgraded to the most current version of Tapatalk. Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

Traffic was low so I used the opportunity to do a quick forum software update. So if anyone visited only to see an offline message, now you know why.

We can't pin everything, or there would be no room for normal threads So we bump certain threads now and then

Had a local shop weld one in, but you can get a bolt in replacement iirc Bolt in should be simple enough as long as the existing bolts come out without much trouble. Before you take that step you should figure out if that is your problem or not. Some shops will check it out for free, if you ask them.

Replaced the cat

Had a similar problem years ago and in my case it turned out to be a semi clogged cat. converter.

B is correct, it’s an all or nothing game. If there is an update to a first post that needs to be done, feel free to type it out in a new post, then PM a Staff Member asking us to replace the text in the first post. But in this case, please type out what you want the entire first post to be (in a new post) so all we have to do is Copy and Paste, this way there is no interpretation required on our part and you get what you wanted once the edit is complete. An alternate would be to do the same in a PM to a staff member rather than a new post in the thread. Either will work, just make it complete. Thanks,

Someone poured salt in his fuel tank

Drove it today.... it's had some time off from the daily driver assignment (this is a good thing considering I do on 100+ Miles Per Day M-F) Shoul belt swap on 2Dr's? Highly reommended and very easy IMHO Rear Brake Litght Swap on 2Dr's? Also highly recomended, though not quite as easy as the belt mod. (speaking of that, it's about time I actually install the 3rd I've had sitting in the garage for ages!)

Please welcome the following two new members The_Magicians_Eye captandy You should both have an email with direct links to your pages. www.nissanpathfinders.net

I'm having no problems using IE9 or Chrome. Make sure your up to date and using the latest versions. Check for updates on Java and Flash while your at it.

Sadly, the website that he hosted most of his pics on is long gone.

Your PC possesed? Nope, no issues here

Moved your post into it's own thread. As for help, you might start here: http://www.nissanpat...t-rod-bushings/ Becoming a fairly common problem on WD21's as they age, mine has this same problem too. The bushing cups start breaking free of the frame and allowing the rod to move. The common fix is to weld a new cup in, when replacing the rods and bushings. Welding bearing race's in as new bushing cups is mentioned in the above linked thread.

Tikiart, First of all, Welcome to NPORA! Second, I moved your post into it's on thread in the Garage section. Please post questions in the respective sections and/or threads. It will not only help you get the help your looking for, you'll likely get it faster and it helps keep the board more organized. You can find your new thread here: http://www.nissanpat...strut-rod-help/

SteeevO, What B and Simon mentioned above is basically it. The forced move from IPB's servers accelerated the move we had planned to do anyway. The decision to move was made because it substantially reduced NPORA’s operational costs. Over the years, covering those costs where supplemented by member donations. But a recent donation by one member allowed NPORA’s bills to be paid up for several years… yes everybody, that means NPORA is at no risk of going anywhere for AT LEAST the next few years, (not that it really is anyway) I completely understand where you are coming from and agree than cross-support within the community can be beneficial to all. However, as a member of many forums I also know that an ad free environment makes for a more user friendly forum, especially in our modern ad rich society. Now, with that said I also believe that a low number of smaller non-intrusive ads can be of little issue, when properly implemented. As for NPORA adding ads to the website, that is not my decision. NPORA is not run by me or any other single person. Decisions are made by the Mod Team as a whole. We’ve had discussions regarding the addition of ads to NPORA a few times before and we’ll revisit it again.

Thanks for all the time you've put into this