RedPath88

Apparently one exists, but I have never been there. Just can't stand facebook... I really don't care what everyone ate for lunch Mostly from what I have heard back about it, the FB page is a place for disgruntled and/or suspended people to go and whine about how "bad" NPORA is... then not long after they show up here again. I am sure it is more, but I seldom hear anything else about it. Remember, here we can keep things in line with what made NPORA what it is, while on FB there seems to be little or no control over the user experience.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33223-classifieds-changes-effective-612012/

Any good system should have a whole shutdown/vehicle exit procedure that must be followed with a manual trans vehicle before the remote start option will operate. My alarm has the option although I have never installed the relay to allow it to bypass the interlock switch. But I have tested it from within the Pathy (to operate the switch manually) and by reaching through the window to depress it. You have to activate the shutdown, then follow the procedure to a tee. It includes iirc, two pulls of the parking brake, shutting the truck off (system keeps the engine running) exiting and locking the truck. After the it's locked and the alarm is activate, the remote start system turns it off/kills the engine and the remote start fuction is availible. If the alarm is tripped, disarmed or in anyway disrupted, remote start status is cancelled and you would then have to go through the shutdown procedure again.

Congrats

I know what you are referring to there, but no this would not/should not cause problems with the alternators function. I agree with everyone else in that the likely problem is the alternator it self. Regarding the in dash regulator you read about, see the first topic in 88's post (first post) in Pathfinder Common Problems/Fixes, Read this first!

Nope, not at all Looky here New NPORA Sticker Now Available fleurys has been making them for the community for years

Thanks, they were connection errors to the database server They are logged and if they continue I will pursue it further.

Yeah when I was looking I could not find straight GL-4 anywhere local in anything but a 5 gallon bucket and that was from a fluid shop. So I had a parts store special order Redline MT-90 and had it in a couple days. But the bottom line is, make sure that it is just GL4 before you buy it. I had a few parts stores tell me that this and that was gl4, but when I read the bottles for myself they were "GL4 compatible", which generally means that they are actually GL5. "GL4 Compatible" is not compatible with out transmissions.

Continuing with this... https://www.google.com/#q=class+iii+hitch+extender&tbm=shop

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36803-steeringcenter-link-problem-helpppp/

Holy crap k9... digging a couple pages back are we? Not that I am complaining, we have so much info on the forum that older members have forgotten and newer members never look through. Keep it up

You can use inner TRE's from a late WD21, there is no "exact" changeover date, Generally the changeover is in the 92/93 years with most 92 and under being Small Taper and most 93 and up being Large Taper, so if you go 94/95 you should be safe. But I suggest you take them off and see which is actually wrong, the TRE's or the CL. I would imagine that it is the CL. And get that replaced that way your consistent throughout the steering. Oh and there is no "advantage" to either taper.

Oh and I would recommend that you figure out exactly what the problem is before you put a new alty in. I'd suggest that you pull both and have them tested independently.

How do you know the battery is good? Hopefully not just because it is xx months old, because I just had a 6mo old battery die on me (along with the alty, which one could have killed the other.)

hmm, I was towing my trailer while this was happening.

Oh right, new front wipers today and discovered that my aftermarket radio's illumination has suddenly synched up to the blinkers... dim, bright, dim, bright

New used under $20 Quest/Villager alternator installed. Previous one was also a wrecking yard unit and it lasted just under 7yrs, hopefully this one lasts a while too

3.8L's had the dual speed fans... but yea, just in case someone swapped a 3.0L fan in (resulting in cooling issues with the Taurus) your looking for a 3pin connector and iirc 9 blade fan (I'll count later)

I did not really notice a change when I converted. I think if this was an old V8 running a full-time fan (with no clutch) then converting would make a difference. But since the stock design uses a thermal clutch, the fans are not under full power all the time, when the engine temp is below the clutches threshold, there is minimal drag on the engine. My advice would be the same as I did myself, wait until your clutch goes out then replace it. Otherwise it's money better spent elsewhere. Besides, the minimal amount you will save on the trip, will still be less than the cost of what your considering. Another tip, to save on the efan conversion (if/when you do it), hit a wrecking yard for the fan from a 3.8L Taurus.

Most people stick with stock gearing when moving to 33's. Is it ideal? No but it works well enough for most too not bother with the high cost and work involved.

Have you asked what the buy back rate would be?

Can't speak for just the lift and tires but with the mods I did over a relatively short period of time I noticed about a 3-4mpg drop. * 3" Suspension * 3" Body * 33x10.5 MT's * ARB Bullbar * 12,000lb Winch * Thule Roof Rack w/Extension * Full Sized Spare on Roof Rack * HiLift Jack on Rack All that together equaled a combined average decrease in the 3-4 range. Of course that varies based on how and where I am driving, along with conditions. Oh and the average distance per weekday that was based on was 100 miles of combined city/highway driving. But as always, your results may vary.

Make sure 2" is good enough long term, if in doubt go 3" from the start otherwise you may end up spending and working twice. Lift installation work is the same for two and three inch with some minor differences. You have to stretch the brake line coils further with the three on, but that is simple. With the 3" you may have to notch the floor for the transfer case shifter and work the steering shaft out further than with the 2" (some weld the the shaft, just in case). Or do like some others, including myself, have done and hit up wrecking yards for the TC lever and steering shaft from a Hardbody. Since they sit about 1.5" higher off the frame than pathfinders do, those two items are a little longer stock.

I've seen but never used one, nor have I known anyone who as (at least not to my knowledge.) But I can tell you that what I do is keep a full set of new belts in my truck. They are not that hard to change, it takes a minimal amount of tools and does not take to long so I find that worth it. If you change your belts at the first sign and not when it is a "must" then you can throw the old ones in the back as temporary backups as well.

Don't know for sure about Nissan but I would say that any vehicle that uses chipped keys and has a valet key, has a chipped valet key as well. The whole point of the chip is to prevent the vehicle from being started and driven without an authorized and verified key. I don't have the Valet key that came new with my Lincoln, but I know that it was also chipped. Think of your normal key as a master key that will work on everything, while the valet key will only do the drivers door and ignition. For theft prevention of personal items, valet keys typically will not operate the glove box, trunk or (in equipped vehicles) in cabin trunk release.