RedPath88

Oh and here's something to read regarding the ratings of your recovery gear http://arbusa.com/Getting-Started/Road-to-Recovery.aspx it's an independently written article, reposted on a manufactures webpage... obviously praising their products *but in my experience ARB products are worthy the praise

Keep in mind that I say that having never had the solid d rings on any of my vehicles, since I don't use them perhaps it would be best to hear from those who do I have seen a lot of people use the loop a strap around a recovery point and through itself thing (as in the video) all the time, but it seems to me that the most, if not all strap makers tell you not to do this, citing that it effectively reduces the capacity of the strap. To me (again NOT in the position) it seems preferable to use a shackle to connect the two by opening the shackle, sliding it through strap loop and d-ring, replace pin. Now here is where people differ, some say the strap goes against the pin while others say it should be in the middle of the loop, but one things is for sure, you should never pull from the sides of the loop. Oh and many will suggest that you tighten the pin all they way and then back it off 1/4in to help limit it's chances of over tightening. As for the branch (carry 1.5-2in dowel if you're going to use this method) is there to prevent the strap from crunching down on itself. This helps to prevent two things, one it damaging and breaking itself and assuming it does not break, it makes it much easier to separate since it will never tighten up so much on itself that it cannot be undone.

Well considering that two of them hang from the front of my ARB.. I'd say the bumper But I would not be afraid the use a shackle to connect a strap to the hard mounted D-Ring if it was setup like yours. Just make sure you buy shackles rated higher than the work your doing, an important thing to remember is that your recovery "system" is only as strong as its weakest link. ie, you may have a 10,000 pound winch, 20,000 pound straps and a 30,000 pound tree strap, but when you connect them to 7500 pound couplers (shackles/d-rings), your system is only rated at 7500lbs Something that needs to be considered even more when tossing a snatch block in the mix!

I carry and tend to use shackles, but opinions may vary.

I'm just amazed it's not billowing black smoke, they all seem to around here

New pictures added to the first post. Thanks again to Precise1 for making a new set of 90-95 VG30E pics

What about welding a mounting tab to the inside instead of drilling? Shouldn't take much.

Turned the alarm off, to the dismay of all the little kids dancing to it while waiting for the bus , after a fart can Honda drove by.

hmm, well do they "fit" the holes? If you put a mounting bracket or such in? Get a shackle to attach that hook to the ring You should already have some or at least have a couple on your shopping list to fill a recovery gear kit

Are those the ones that fit the holes in the front? If so then mount them there and connect the winch hook to the d-ring.

Well if you have the means... /jealous ...and time you can buy the raw materials for it, including a premade weld-into-whatever-your-making receiver tube.

Then you may want to start reading this thread now http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38871-will-a-frame-from-a-different-year-work/

Did the ever make a pre-fab'ed one? Any custom hitch shop should be able to do it for you. That was my first thought when I saw it.

$155 plus $38 Shipping for the cheapest shipping method (using generic Dallas Zip) Amazon and Summit Racing both have the Performance Accessories 3in kit (Same kit the 4x4Parts offering starts as) for $122.97 and on ebay for 125.99 all with free shipping. Figure another (guessing here) $4-12 locally for the replacement bolts? http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Accessories-Body-Nissan-Pathfinder/dp/B000J3HSXA http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/chassis-suspension/part-type/body-lift-kits/make/nissan/model/pathfinder http://www.ebay.com/itm/Performance-Accessories-4053-Body-Lift-Kit-/400745315800?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ANissan|Model%3APathfinder&hash=item5d4e483dd8&vxp=mtr

You can order the early BL and get the appropriate bolts yourself. The body lift kits 4x4parts sell are exactly that, an early kit with replacement bolts. I know the bolt specs have been talked about before so they should be here somewhere, perhaps in the HowTo for BL installs.

All things considered, if it were me in the same situation as you are now I would start looking for another truck and using yours for parts... but that is just me.

It's pretty simple even without the pics. I will try and get some of mine soon (TBI Injection) and replace them in the first post, but no promises on when.

I am just a little confused as to why the "body shop" could not tell you the answer to that question, I mean, shouldn't they have or at least have access to the specs/drawings? Well anyway, here are the drawings from a 1989 FSM (2DR Model), print them out along with pages BF-68-71 in the 1994 FSM (4DR Model) found HERE and take them down to the "body shop" and have them look it over. Not sure if they would need more info, but it should be enough for them to tell you. As mentioned above anything from a 4DR PATHFINDER should work, comparing these drawings may open the search up to 2DR models as well... or may tell you to stay away Earlier would probably be better to an apparent change in the allow used, that made later models more prone to rusting out. I "want" to say that change was in '93, but I don't know for sure. One thing that should be noted is that the bolt threads between 2 and 4 door models are different at the rear body mounts (I those are the only two) Anyone who has one a body life on a 4DR can confirm this.

I have had them go bad without a high pressure "problem" being the cause, sometimes they just fail. And when your mating rubber to metal, it can happen or perhaps the rubber is simply failing due to age and environment On RockAuto, a PS reseal kit is $13, Return hose is >$10 and the pressure hose is $35-45, expect local prices to be a little higher and you might check with Alkorahil as well.

Well I don't know if you figured this out but I opened the dash yesterday to reflash it and as it turned out the notifier was wrong about there being a "new" firmware release. While in there I looked at the wires, but can only give you one (Axxess White/Greenn to Car White/Black) but keep in mind that this may not match what you have to do. Not only is it a different model, but it is also a different make Once you do get this going, you can take a look at their new Android App, Axxess Updater if you need to remap buttons or update it later.

In Washington there are a number of places/parks that you can officially wheel in, of which most need at least a day pass. If you plan on wheeling more than a couple times a year, then it is cheaper to buy a yearly pass. Then there are a number of private land areas that you can wheel in as well, but many of them have been gated due to irresponsible people destroying land and dumping trash. With the State/Federal lands, as time goes on places like these are starting to restrict ORV use due to environmentalist pressure... "I don't like it, so there for it must be bad for everyone and so no one should be allowed to do it" type of mentality.

Suspecting that it may be limited to RWD vehicles I looked it up on rockauto.com's 1993 Pathfinder, PS Pump interchange and found *This info was copied (and reformatted) from CarDone's website since I could easily not copy from the java window on RockAuto.

Not debating software preference here but does it really matter if it's only temporarily being installed/used? Free trials are fine for that. /rhetorical

A .rar is just a compressed file, you can use WinRAR to decompress the files