RedPath88

2-1/8pt DRY Fluid Capacities are on page MA-8 in the '94 FSM (pg.GI-18 in '89 FSM's)

First step is to change the fluid, over time wear happens causing particles to build up in the fluid. Get the old out, new in and see how that effects the problem. The basic way is to siphon out the old in the reservoir and replace with new. You can use a cheap dollar store turkey baster or a fluid suction gun to get out the old. Then replace with new and cycle the steering by turning it loc to lock several times (putting the truck on jack stands makes things easier when doing this.) If the fluid is really dirty you may need to remove and replace more than once. Although I have never used it, some say that Lucas Oil's power steering additive can really help operation in older pumps, but that is something you would add after you have removed as much of the old fluid as possible. Also keep in mind that things may gradually improve over a period of time after you have done this. The new fluid (and additive) may slowly clean things up in the internals. Given that this is not an expensive thing to do, it is definitely worth doing before throwing many more dollars at it, in the form of a replacement pump and/or gearbox

This thread was originally about R50's but went into some details about WD21's lights. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/8444-headlight-problems

The vast majority of problems related to lights that are controlled by the combination switch, is cause by the switch. Was the ebay one new? was it of any known brand that makes replacements? If it was new, are you 100% sure that it was new... this was bought on ebay after all You mentioned still having the old one, have you tried taking it apart, cleaning and re-bending the contacts? I would do that (or do it again) and see if it works in place of the ebay one. If that solves the problem (likely temporary at best) then you have your answer. I had the problem not long after I bought my truck and I did the clean and re-bend thing 2-3 times before I bought a new one. During that time I contemplated buying cheap and finally decided that the long life of original units was worth a little extra and I bought a Nissan switch. That was well over years ago and so far so good Now I planned on doing the headlight relay mod soon after, but never got around to it/forgot all about it. But I would recommend that you do that as well. *put relays on the shopping list

Welcome Please create a new welcome thead in the New Members section ("New People Start Here!") and introduce yourself to everyone, with those pics you mentioned Here's A Shortcut Then later you can post what you did "today" here

UCA = Upper Control Arms. Of the main suppliers, 4x4parts, Superlift, Rough Country and Calmini I personally recommend Super lift and Rough Country (other than finish, they are exactly the same and both are made by Superlift.) 4x4Parts - Allows aftermarket shocks, but DOES NOT correct ball joint angles after lifting. SL/RC - Allows aftermarket shocks and DOES correct ball loint angles after lifting. Calmini - Reported interference issues with some aftermarket shocks, DOES correct ball joint angles after lifting, many report noise and early wear problems with bushings. That said, I highly recommend that you research them here on the forum and come to your own decision before buying, if that ends up being a Mod you would like to do. EDIT: Your options may also be limited based on availability locally or a sellers willingness to ship to your country

Research suspension parts options before buying there. There are things to know about certain parts, such as UCA's, before deciding what you should buy.

Let me know if these are ECCS Diagrams you were looking for. Note that I only did the VG30i pages and not the z24i versions, as that is the majority of early Pathfinders. I can add them later if they are needed. There are two versions of the foldout diagram. A low res that keeps the file size at or below 1MB which is where I try and keep them all. It is readable, but in case you want a clearer copy I attached another one but it is over 13MB. 1989-Nissan-WD21-FSM-EF_EC-018 1989-Nissan-WD21-FSM-EF_EC-020 1989-Nissan-WD21-FSM-EF_EC-021 1989-Nissan-WD21-FSM-Circuit-Diagram-Foldout_Lo-Res 1989-Nissan-WD21-FSM-Circuit-Diagram-Foldout_Hi-Res

Gave it an oil change and discovered that the Napa Gold filters that they sold me in place of the normal Bosch 3402's that I normally get, had the wrong thread... after I prefilled them with oil Had to run down to O'Reilly's and get a couple of the Bosch's.

Scan a combined 111 pages one at a time? If you can that down, I may be able to help out with some actual scans.

As he said, you should browse around a bit and get a feel for what you would like to do. And for reference your engine is a VG30i(TBI = Throttle Body Injection), later models had VG30e's (MPFI = Multi Port Fuel Injection) but you won't find a VG301

Although I understand the idea of siliconing the lid for piece of mind, if you use a god quality container (like Tupperware) then I doubt it would be needed. Just silicone the harness entry and work it into between/around the wires like GrimGreg did and it should be fine while still allowing east removal of the lid for diagnostics. But how often do you have to run codes? For me it would be so little that cleaning off the old and applying new silicone to the lid seal would be a non-issue

If there is, Nissan did not disclose it's location in the FSM. By the FSM (1989 - GI-13): Top Front RHS Frame "Vehicle Identification Number (Chassis Number)" - Stamped, VIN only on mine Under Hood "Emissions Information Label" - Sticker, VIN not shown on mine RHS Inner Fender "Vehicle Identification Plate" - Plate, VIN is on mine LHS Door Jam "F.M.V.S.S. Certification Label" - Plate, VIN is on mine LHS Dash (seen through windshield) "Vehicle Identification Number Plate" - Plate, VIN is on mine

I've ordered from them a few times via phone and website, and never had any issues.

Here you go And for reference (from page GI-7) Wire Color Coding B = Black BR = Brown W = White OR = Orange R = Red P = Pink G = Green PU = Purple L = Blue GY = Gray Y = Yellow SB =Sky Blue LG = Light Green When the wire color is striped, the base color is given first, followed by the stripe color as shown below: Example: L/W = Blue with White Stripe

To go with that... Pathfinder Common Problems/Fixes, Read this first! Check out the first post

A rear locker is easily found in the North America (fronts are not), will cause less problems than a front would and will make a world of difference in what you can do and where you can go. Might actually force you to make use of that new winch and bumper

There is no frame mounted plate on my truck, but it is stamped on the top of the frame rail at the front RHS.

Are you referring to the Idle Switch? Looking through the wire colors on the diagram, it appears to be. It also looks like the connector has three ports, but only two are in use. These are from a 1989 FSM, but should be the same.

Should be 211/8 gallons dry.

Don't know the number and although people like to call it such, it's not really a skid plate since it cannot support the weight of the vehicle. You might PM or post in Alkorahil's (our resident Nissan Parts Guy) thread and see if he can look it up. If it's still available he may even be able to get you one. GENUINE NISSAN PARTS

ECU relocation - alternatives by flnl

Oh and people have even done the Tupperware/Rubbermain ECU mod as well, I believe GrimGreg did it you might as him.. IIRC you use a container of the appropriate size, cut holes for the harness and ground wire to exit then seal it all up with the lid and silicon.

We disabled most direct pic uploading to save hosting space partly because of the number of pics that simply don't need to be hosted locally and partially due to the size of them of them. Unfortunately, a lot of the older pics (pre-current Mod Team) and long gone, for the reasons mentioned prior :thumsdown: But if you ev4r feel that a pic is important enough to host locally, just PM a Member of the Mod Team and if we agree we can save it to the NPORA server and edit the post to reflect the new location... just don't be upset if we don't agree on every pic

Relocated My ECU by LD50