RedPath88

I used one far more recently, earlier this year in my chevy work van!

It's not hard, just make sure that the surfaces, heads and block, are nice and clean before putting it back together. And really, as with any gasket surface, the same goes for the intake manifold and any other gaskets you have to replace. Follow torque sequence and specs too!

Thanks, your contributions then, now and in between are appreciated

Are you using the mobile skin or the regular one? I used the regular skin whenever I use a mobile device, which is a lot. I can't stand mobile skins on any forum or website but that is my personal opinion. I also do not like tapatalk, but many seem too, which is why we support it. The number one reason that I have found to be the cause of posting multiple threads from a mobile device? Impatience. And number two is, people not refreshing the listings and just assuming that the thread or post was not created and do it again. All of this is more common on mobile devices.

I presume you read and saw the link in the first post, right?

Jim, Please see the first post of this thread, the NTB97-009a link has been updated (I am still trying to locate the other)

As a note about transmissions and ECU inter-compatibility... you can use an Auto's ECU with a Manual trans, but you cannot use a Manual's ECU with an Auto trans. To the original poster, another ECU from an Auto VG30i "should" work but something is nagging at me about the '87's having subtle differences that could impact that. I used to have a chart that showed the numbering schemes of the ECU's but I don't seem to have it anymore. I got it at the parts counter of a local dealer so you might be able to get the same info from another... perhaps Alkorahil, our resident factory parts guy, could look up the info. Try PM'ing him if he does not see this. It does not actually say "this can be used with that," no instead the chart is basically just a year by year listing of the ECU part numbers (there was well more than one) When I was looking for one I hit them up for advice and after he printed it and looked it over he ID'ed the key section needing to match the original to "be sure" it would work. I found one and for me it worked without a problem. I cannot say for sure or from any personal experience that the info was true, because I got my ecu from a wrecking yard that had 3 of them, two of which did not match, but one did. That was the one I bought, installed and worked for me. It was, iirc, from an '89, my truck is an '88.

So looking at their site is THAT what you are currently using and THIS the other option you mentioned? I ask because both of those are listed in the "Ready to use" section and not listed as Concentrated. The 90 Green says it's a 33% mix while the 60 does not specify, but an assumption would be the standard 50/50. There is also a 90 Red that says it's 50%. If your using one of these they come pre-mixed... at least according to their website

Well maybe you can talk those prior ABS problems into a "complimentary" or discounted brake job

Fronts do the majority of the braking, so they definitely should wear first... unless something has changed in braking systems, as they eluded too. Do your brakes seem a bit on the weaker side, like there should be more? Des it sway or weave when braking hard?

Exactly, thank you! Please everyone, thank a step back and relax. There is no reason to get worked up regardless of what happened... It was in no way a serious comment by any stretch of the imagination. This has been a long time good natured sparring match between a number of Canadian and American members here with both sides taking part... dating back to nearly the beginning of NPORA, if not all the way.

Yeah a lot of people have done that. It's pretty common in the earlier Toyota truck offroad world, I am not sure about later models. One reason it is fairly common with the 1st (79-83), 2nd (84-88) and possibly 3rd (89-95) gen Toyota's is because the Toyota compressor is an extremely strong unit and makes a great air pump, but I do not know about the Nissan compressor, I have never really heard one way or the other. Not all AC unit's are created equally. I actually have a factory AC compressor along with a holding tank in the garage for the yota in my signature, which like most it did not come with factory AC. Another one of those things I was collecting parts for, but then other priorities took center stage and it was set aside.

Call around I am sure you will find a shop willing the discharged it safely, responsibly and legally (not sure what the laws are up there) and possibly even for free. I have seen some here that will not charge for the removal of the refrigerant, given that they can turn around and use, and charge for, the recovered. But then I have also heard of some who charge for removal, only to make even more reselling. Then it's a matter of parts removal and plugging any ports you may not pull off the truck (such as at the firewall)

Commonly people buy Toyota ones as a base and mount them. There is info on it around here somewhere and I am fairly sure SteeevO (RuggedRocks) can lay it out for you

Forum was offline for a about 30min for a minor software update. The Cut & Paste issue when using IE11 and the Advanced Text Box, has been resolved.

It's also the cam that is under the greatest tension from the belt. The belt wraps a little further around the RH sprocket that the LH and the tensioner is closest to the RH cam. Follow the install process exactly, there is a how to in the Garage > How-To's section.

It is, it's as aerodynamic as brick

Oh and in my case, I pulled the head, removed the broken cam, dropped the head off for inspection and repair (they found three bent valves, but the head looked and pressure tested good), inspected the tops of the pistons and the cylinder walls, bought two new cams and threw it all back together. Started right up and ran as if nothing had happened.

nah it's happened before... *raises hand* my RH cam broke at 60mph. MaritimeMan and one other member, don't remember who, had a cam break all three happened fairly close together time wise. All three were the RH cam, all relatively near the sprocket and all around six months after a timing belt change. So no surprise that all three were suspected to have been caused by a too tight timing belt, thus Kingmans comment above.

In my car I used an adapter that plugged into the factory radio's optional Satellite Radio port. I simply put the radio into the SAT mode and I could plug any audio 3.5mm AUX audio source I chose, but like ferrariowner123 mentioned, that is a newer car. Looking up your make, model and year on PAC's website I see some options but they are generally ones that attain it through the FM Antenna input. I have never used one of them myself but have heard some say they sound great, while others say it does not. Also read some report that they completely lose AM reception once the a device like this is install (claim that the do not pass AM frequencies through.) Now that may or may not be a problem for you, but really you should find out for sure, if this is an option. This is not the only company that makes things like this, you may have to look around some. Perhaps even hit the car audio sites for more detailed info.

File it flat (if possible) and smack it using a punch.

The adjusters are not a recognized problem, relax, it was a very unusual failure. Verify the other adjuster and move on knowing that you will likely never see that problem again

Updated to the most current version. Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

Check or double check that the teeth on the t-bar are undamaged as well, don't want to risk damaging the brand new adjuster And since you have one out, now is the time to reindex BOTH bars otherwise you may find that you still can not get it even, side to side. Go to "The Garage" > "How-To's" > "How To Re-Index Your Torsion Bars" It also can't hurt taking a look at the other bar and adjuster

There is some room in them and what I did was route the wires up forward of the panel retaining clips. If you end up routing several groups of wires and or larger cables, such as a coax, then I would suggest that you split them between each pillar. Depending on what you do I would also bring back up my prior suggestion of routing up the sides, between the doors and/or up through the back trim by the rear hatch. Removing floor the floor trim/carpet/seats to run wires is really not that hard or time consuming.