RedPath88

Two identical threads deleted (posting works, please use refresh/reload before reposting the same content) and thread moved to the General section.

Bronco = stronger shocks? I'm not exactly sold on that I think it is more the brand/model/build quality than the name of the vehicle in the application book Same shocks can be installed on a Pathfinder as on a Bronco, with the only difference being length and mounting type. Either way, same length as stock WD21

Remember, the front shocks remain stock length.

I guess I should also point out that "as much additional downward travel as is possible" is relative to the rest of the components as well. Don't go beyond what your brake lines (both hydraulic and mechanical) can do, or the driveline and everything else that moves with the axle housing.

Ah I missed that, just kinda skimmed it before heading out the door. Ok so you do have longer shocks But what I do not know is if they are a good fit and beneficial or actually harmful. A longer shock should give to as much additional downward travel as is possible, without limiting the upward travel to the point where the shock reach full compression before the suspension does. Sorry I cannot say what the measurements are that I used, maybe one day I will take one off and get the specs. but I used what was recommended by others at the time, I can say that they were spec'ed for a Toyota, but I do not remember if that was stock or with lift (on said yota)

Longer shocks will give a little more too

Help needed section? That's most of the forum, but okay... Do you meant that all the lighting in those areas are now non-functional? And by trying to fix it I am guessing that you were messing around with the combination switch? If so then I suggest you take a look at the second subject in the first post of THIS post that is pinned in the section all new members starts first.

That is something that I need to do too. But I am actually going thicker after having tried the thin stuff the last time. lol

Nope! How Do I Get Herculiner Off of My Hootus?!

Let me guess, tapatalk strikes again

So your either threatening... or coming on to me. Not sure which, but please keep both to yourself

All good, thread moved If you ever need it again, feel free to post a request to the Mod Team and we will move it (if appropriate) You can post in the same thread that needs moved, use the "Report" button (probably the quickest option) or shoot one of us a PM.

Cool, please give us an update on how it's working and if your happy with it in a couple months. Back in December I added a 1.5amp Schumacher SE-1-12S-CA Fully Automatic Onboard Battery Charger and so far so good

Looks good, what is your plan to finish it, paint or powder coat? Just remember that the shocks are not going to help carry the weight, only dampen it/control compression & rebound motion for better manners. The T-bars are what carries it and the SAW bars will have an easier job doing so.

I just noticed something else too, you have this in the 86.5-89 (TBI) section, but your profile says you have a 93 (MPFI) ? Are we talking about that 93 or another truck in the TBI years, because this does matter when it comes to intake/vacuum related items? If it is the 93, then we can move this to the appropriate section for you.

Turned the alarm off after the boys let a bike fall against it

No, I didn't... this is the internet with text not tone, I took it for what you offered When you say "zero" and give no indication otherwise, it is taken as such. If it's not zero, don't say that it is or add "something" that gives a clue otherwise. And yes I added the bold, italicize & underline but that was to emphasize, within the quote, exactly what I was calling BS on.. or in otherwords I gave an indication as to what I was referring and how I meant it

Sorry but I gotta call BS on that, because unless you sanded/stripped it, there is no way that "all" of the clear coat is gone, without... at the minimum... serious damage to the white underneath it. My clear coat is in sorry shape, but it's not even close to all being gone. Most but not all of the hood, then the tops of the fenders, panel below windshield, top portions of the rear fender budges' all have patches of no clear coat or spotted areas.. but most of it is there and the red will be gone in spots long before the rest of the clear is gone.

He can't do a body lift (hint: Check the year )

How To Re-Index Your Torsion Bars

Scrape, spray, scrub, rinse, repeat!

You may need to spray down the motor with cleaner and rinse, so you can see where exactly the new oil is running from.

It might be helpful if you can post a picture or several pictures from different angles so we can get a better understanding of what you are seeing

Although I do not know, it would not surprise me if the AC T-Bars are rebranded Sway-A-Ways (think PA Body lift kits sold as their own). I have the SaW bars and they have been on my truck for.. I don't know but it's got to be approaching 9-10yrs now And they still feel like they did the first day I put them on. On top of that, I don't know how old they really are, as I bought them used, hand sanded and painted them before installing. So my first thought here is actually a question for you... Are you sure they actually need replaced or are you potentially just throwing money down the drain? Have you re-indexed them several times in that 10yrs only to have them sag again and again? If not then my opinion on this is, and it is just my opinion, remove them, sand (treat for rust if needed, but doubtful)spray several thin coats with a good tough and long lasting paint then re-index them as you reinstall. Odds are it will be another 10yrs before you even think bout them again.

Well if it does not work out, but the rack is still in useable condition for a WD21 (87-95) install, you may be able to make that $40 selling to someone on here... preferably local of course. All depends on what and how you trim though.