Harbinger

Ha, no I haven't tried hitting it. I replaced it yesterday with one from a junkyard. Still no worky. (Didn't have $55 for a new one.) I'll have to hook the motors up to a battery or something to test them, but I've got a feeling something else is going on. This all started the same morning that my battery issues started. Fast draining battery, charge light lit up on the dashboard. I installed my trans tunnel cover, and replaced the fuel filter a few days ahead of that, so I'm hoping I didn't crush any wiring while doing all that.

That's my thought too. I'm at the point in the fsm manual ac diagnostic where as long as my new switch checks out, it says to replace the blower motor. Will see about picking one up on my way home from work. Thanks guys. Sent from my LG-VM701 using Tapatalk 2

I have 12v between the top of the blower motor harness and a body ground. I don't have continuity between the blower motor negative harness and body ground.<br /> <br /> The resistor pack has continuity between terminals. <br /> <br /> Sent from my LG-VM701 using Tapatalk 2<br />

Ok, I was taking measurements wrong. I have 12v between the top terminal of the blower motor connector and body ground. I'm currently on step E of the Manual Air Conditioner Diagnostic, (HA-45) but it is too dark to work. Which involves checking the new switch I put in. I'll look at it more tomorrow when I get off of work.

Ok, I made the mistake of trying to just remove the fan speed switch. Still have no idea where some of those springs went, so I went to the j/y real fast, and pulled a new HVAC control unit out of a 1994 wd21. Still not working. No power to the blower motor. It's getting dark out now, so it will have to wait. I'm going to crack a beer and go through the FSM some more...

'Ello all. So got in my truck this morning, and my fan wasn't blowing on any speed. It's a bit cold out to be running around without a heater! Anywho, got home from school today, and did some investigating. Both of the 15A fuses are fine. I have no power at the blower motor (either with the engine running, or the key in the ACC position), and no power on pins 1 or 2 on the blower relay. (The one right behind the relay box on the passenger side of the engine bay.) The one good thing is I cleaned out my resistor pack while I was in there. Right now I'm thinking it's the switch, but I'm not sure how to get it out, and then test it. Thought I would ping everyone here before I go back outside and get frustrated.

Actually, all Nissan offers anymore is the silicone boots. When I bought mine (had to drop them to install the new transmission), the other boots had been superseded by the silicone one.

I would look into an actual locker instead of swapping out a LSD axle. Since some of us with LSD's are considering just the opposite. Just my not so humble opinion. Today I replaced my lower radiator hose. If it is still leaking tomorrow, I'll order a replacement radiator. Also picked up the longer belt I'll need for installing that Quest alternator.

I like it! What thickness of metal did you use?

That makes an odd amount of sense, as at least on the wd21's, the 4x4 and neutral switches are wired in series. It might be easiest to compare the new switch to the switches on your truck, IIRC, they all have a different wiring plug. So match the new switch to the truck switch that shares a similar plug?

Today I ran to the junkyard, and came home with the proper tunnel cover, rubber bits, shifter boots, and a alternator from a '95 quest. Got the alty tested out at Autozone on the way home. So I'll be putting in a 110amp alty in the next week! Also changed my fuel filter, and cleared my codes on the ecu.Will see what pops up now. Also installed the c-clip installed so my shifter won't pop out anymore, and installed the new cover plate and shifter boots. I gotta say, it's kinda nice to not see the road through the floor anymore! Also figured out why my 4x4 light was coming on while driving (at 70mph none the less). When I routed the new transmission wiring it was done in a way that let it slip against the exhaust. Re-routed the wiring and patched up the melted insulation. Meant to get back to a parts store for a lower radiator hose, as my current "new" one, has a pin hole in it that is getting worse. Got distracted because I'm helping the g/f look for a new car, so hopefully will get to that tomorrow.

Forgot to mention, I also fabbed up a plate to cover the hole where the auto shift cable used to come through. Used stainless steel so I wouldn't have to worry about it rusting from below.

Been driving it for a few days now. Shifting is good, even got to use 5th on my way to school today. Currently getting just above 16mpg, hoping that will improve as I burn off this old gas. Have tune up parts/fuel filter to swap out this weekend too. One issue I ran into today was realizing I don't have the snap ring that holds the shifter in place. Twice today, after getting off the freeway, the lower part of the shifter was popped out of the transmission. Both times leaving me in 3rd gear. I ordered a new snap ring for it today from Alkorhrail, but it may not be here till next week. Welded on a temp exhaust pipe onto what was left of my y pipe. It was a larger pipe as we didn't have oem exhaust size pipe in the scrap bin at school. Slipped it over both ends and welded it up best I could, but the large mig torch was too bulky to get the very upper parts of the pipe, so I still have some leaks. Slowly but surely....

No risk. Just make sure you reinstall it before you need four wheel drive again. Sent from my LG-VM701 using Tapatalk 2

I attempted to take advantage of my Lifetime Alignment at Firestone. Apparently their alignment computer was acting up and they wanted me to reschedule. Other than that, I'm happy my heater still works, and I filled it up with fuel for the first time in years. Suffice to say fuel was much cheaper this time around!

I'm also running Rancho RS5000's. I like them well enough, but wish I had had the $$ to get the 9000's.

Yep. Definatley have an oil leak coming from either the RMS or the oil pan. Have a drip line (wiped it off yesterday) coming down the back of the oil pan, where the transmission bolts up to the rear of the engine. Hoping it's the oil pan, as I did replace the RMS over the summer....dammit.

Looks good. What did you end up doing to fill in the gap between the top of the bumper and the body? Today, I changed the drivers side CV axle. I'm getting better at it! Took around 2 hours. Then I pulled her out of my buddies shop, and drove her home. Pretty big deal when I haven't driven the poor thing in 2.5 years.

Several of us have swapped the auto for a manual. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33748-harbingers-automatic-to-manual-transmission-swap/ http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23822-starting-my-at-to-mt-swap/?hl=swap http://www.nissan4wheelers.com/topic/auto-to-manual-swap-in-progress?page=1 It may be cheaper with a parts truck, but it definitely more labor intensive. To get the clutch pedal in you have to remove the steering column. Unless the donor truck is in really clean shape, you may have trouble removing some of the clutch hydraulic piping, especially the lower stuff. Most everything is bolt on. The one spot people seem to have issues is in the transmission support cross member. As the MT version doesn't fit on the AT trucks. I got away with it, although I'm going to post pics when it's warmer to make sure, as I'm not convinced I'm exactly centered in the tranny tunnel, although it doesn't seem near as off as other people have reported. When it was all said and done, I'm willing to bet I came in not far off from that $1100 mark, especially considering the amount of time my truck was down for the swap, and renting a heated shop space for me to work on it. Then again others have had much better luck, and aren't near as apathetic as I am.

Another Friday update. I brought the truck home today! So far have hit every gear except for 5th, with no weird clutch noises or other issues. Oddly enough, my tach works now. Nevermind the AT power button blinking at me like something is wrong! I decided to keep the original exhaust installed - it's so rusted I didn't want to launch into earlier today because I was pressed for time. I don't have the interior put back together yet, so I had exhaust wafting into the truck on the way home. I'll put my interior back together this weekend, and run the truck out to school next week so I can weld in the missing section of exhaust routing. With the passenger side not hooked up to the muffler, my pathy is finally louder than my motorcycle. I'm slightly concerned that my rear main seal replacement might have been botched, as I found oil on the back of the oil pan earlier. I've wiped it off and will continue to keep checking. Really hoping it's just extra oil from when my oil filter relocation was leaking/replaced. The good news of the day is I can now change a cv axle in roughly two hours. Replaced the drivers side one this morning.

IIRC - All the 4wd Pathies get their speed info from the transfer case.

Thanks for the info! Well, quite a bit of progress today! Finally finished my wiring loom coming from the transmission. Jumped pins 3&4, and 6&7 where the park/neutral relay used to sit. Wired up the starter, and put a fresh charge on the battery. After two tries, she rumbled to life! Not bad for sitting for 2.5 years! One of the hoses for my oil filter relocation developed a bad leak, so I put an OEM size filter on until I can get some new hoses made. Obtained a proper length banjo bolt, and got the slave cylinder connected. Filled and bled the system only to find my rebuild on the clutch master cylinder didn't go so well. So obtained a new clutch master, installed it, and bled all over again. The good news is with the clutch engaged, she slips right into gear! Haven't given her a proper test drive yet, but I'm beyond giddy. What's left: Obtaining a new (to me) crossover pipe for the exhaust, since I cut my existing one. One has already been pulled at the local pick-a-part so I'll grab it tomorrow. Also have parts to replace the drivers side CV axle, and do new plugs/rotor/wires and fuel filter. Then I can start working on getting my interior put back together.

Ok, so if I'm hearing(reading) you correctly. The plastic clip coming off the starter (looks to be connected to the starter case) connects to the other plug from the harness. While the single female spade connects to the oil pressure sender?