Harbinger
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Everything posted by Harbinger
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If it is quarter inch it should be beefy indeed! How does it bolt to the truck?
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Looking pretty good. What thickness of metal did you use?
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Ok, snapped some pics. http://imgur.com/a/8coys The first pic shows the outside of the frame rail, and the connector block (The one with the yellow dot on it from the JY). The upper line comes from the dampener, and the lower line runs under the passenger side frame rail, and back up the other side. That is where the next pic shows it connecting to the rubber hose line, underneath the starter. Hope this helps.
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I'll try and answer best I can. 1) No, I believe the lengths are different. I bought some new 10.9 bolts at a local supplier and cut them to length. 2) I believe flywheel shims are for shimming flywheels that have been machined after some hard use. If you buy a new flywheel you won't need to shim it. 3) My truck didn't have the AT adapter, so I didn't have to remove it. I think there are tools made, but I don't know enough to comment. 4) Have no idea. VG30 5 speeds are somewhat common locally. 5) I don't have a pic handy, but can snap one later. IIRC, from the slave cylinder, a rubber flex line runs to a point on the inside frame rail. From there the hard line runs over the frame rail to another connector block that runs to the dampener.
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Here is another vote for a 5 speed. I prefer them so much that I swapped my automatic over to a 5speed when the auto blew up on me. Compared to auto pathys, the manuals feel like they have quite a bit more pep, and I am seeing better fuel economy now versus when it was an automatic.
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I wish I could find a front-end wrecked D21 for cheap. Want to make a D21 trailer for my WD21!
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Today I leveled out my t-bars. Getting an alignment tomorrow. Also trimmed my front flares and fenders. Cut a straight line from just below the headlight to the inner fender. Also cut rectangles out of the front sheet metal. Once that was done I started mocking up my new bumper out of cardboard.
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Drove it a bit today and decided I wasn't happy with the JGC springs. The panhard rod was higher on the drivers side once I got parked on some level concrete. Probably means I got 1.5-2"-ish inches out of the JGC springs, since my panhard is dropped 3 inches on the frame/passenger side. As far as why I got so little out of the JGC springs, either they are higher-mileage (the odo was ripped out of the donor, so I don't know for sure) and sagging, or the weight of my tire carrier & hi-lift was too much weight on it. Got home, and cut one coil off of my AC 3" springs. With that removed they were actually very close to the length of the JGC springs. Got them installed and I'm much happier with the ride height. Cranked the T-bars up a bit, and now a level of rake within tolerance. I'll make sure the front is level tomorrow @ school.
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Today I replaced my AC 3" rear coils with some ones out of the front of a 1995 JGC limited. The ones from the JGC measured .56", and had a bit more than 8 coils with the pig tails cut off. This is versus the AC coils, which measure @ .64" and have 9 coils. My rough measurements (hard to be accurate on a sand and gravel driveway) was I lost about 3.5" of rear lift, and brought me roughly level with the cranked to the max front end. I lowered the front by about a quarter of an inch, and will do final adjustments on the concrete @ school tomorrow. I would say that the rear end is @ stock height, but I think my eyes are playing tricks on me. My panhard rod has one of GrandpaX's 3" panhard drop brackets on it, and is now sitting damn near level. With the AC springs on it still had quite a bit of an incline to it. Not sure how to feel about it, I didn't expect to lose SO much rear lift, but the truck actually sits like it should now, and it gives me more UCA to bumpstop clearance in the front end.
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What are your favorite, or least favorite, features in a front bumper?
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Today I replaced my compression/strut rod bushings with Energy Suspension poly ones. The moog ones I put on a few years ago (with less than 5K miles on them) were cracking and fairly trashed due to the elongated holes on the frame. I welded in the thickest washers I could find to patch the holes, and ground what was left of the drivers side cup off, as it was shot. Welded a timken lm67010 bearing cup on in its place. The passenger side cup was still in good shape, so I left it. Also scheduled an alignment on for Friday morning. Gotta love that lifetime alignment at Firestone. Debating cranking my t-bars a bit more, or downgrading my rear springs. I don't have a ton of clearance between the UCA bump stops as is, so will probably track down some JGC coils this week. Those 3" AC coils just give too much lift, my truck has way too much rake right now.
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An easier (but not as sure fire) method is to use a voltmeter. Take a battery voltage reading with the truck off, and then again while the truck is running. If it goes up while running chances are your alt is fine. -
Is there a source for two inch lift coils for the wd21? These three inch ac ones are too tall for my liking.
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I've read countless arguments for and against, I've bought many different brands of springs over the years, and I've also cut an inch or two off many springs for myself and others and never really noticed much difference at all. People love to argue about is one, but I have done it and think its just fine. Moderation is the tick. Just trim off about half of what you would like to lose, and see where that puts it.
Seriously, this is nowhere near the big deal some folks...
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Are they progressive rate or straight-rate springs? If they are PR then it could feasibly effect the spring rate or at least the range of which the rate changes, depending on which end and how much you take off. But I would imagine that they are SR springs, so the sprint rate should not be effected at all.
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Nice I hope to begin my exhaust overhaul soon myself. I finished my body lift today. Those rear bolts are a pain to align! Liking the extra clearance gained. It was also an excuse to fix that leaking power steering hose. Put in a new radiator along with the lift, so hopefully my coolant leak is also gone. Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk 2
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Did some more prep for the body lift today. Radiator is out (will be replaced since it was leaking), power steering is disconnected, as are the e-brake and driveshaft saftey hoop. Ran to the hardware store and picked up a new angle grinder (I I can't have too many of these things!) and some cut off wheels. All the body bolts are out, (Had to cut out 4 of the 10), and replaced with the new bolts. Need to run to the store again tomorrow for some M12 washers, then will unbolt the brake/clutch lines from the frame, and take care of the steering shaft tomorrow before I lift it.
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Good call!
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Dude, that sucks! I started the prep for my body lift today. Looks like I'm going to have to find a way to cut out some of the body mount bolts. Thinking a dremel with a cutoff wheel might work, if not I'll find a way to school on Monday and grab my die grinder. The good news is that all the blind-hole bolts (the middle and rear most) bolts came out. My 2" kit came packed with 180mm bolts for the blind holes, so I'll have to cut down or replace two of the 10mm x 1 bolts with 150mms. Don't want to punch (more) holes in my floor pan. Also noticed that my drivers front carpet is soaking wet. Closer investication led to realizing a hole had been cut out of the drivers floor pan, and a section from (I'm guessing here) another pathfinder was SILICONED on in its place. The moisture didn't smell like coolant, so I'm hoping it's just remnants of the rain we had a few days ago. Really need to just rip the carpet out and properly fix the rust issues in the floor pan. Funny how the "new" floor pan is the same body color as the parts pathy that the PO of my truck had...
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Apathy. It is why my transmission swap took two years to finish. Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk 2
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Ha, I wish I was boosted!
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auto / manual transfer case interchange?
Harbinger replied to ebayfish's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
AFAIK, you can use an auto tx10 on a manual, but not the other way around. (I'm running an auto tx10 with my 5 speed). Reason being is the manual tx10 has an oil catch under the input shaft, and it is un-clear if it will bolt up to the automatic with out that oil catch removed. The 4x4 switches also have different plugs between the autos and the 5 speeds, and they use different bolts due to the difference in transmission flange thicknesses. There are pics of the differences in this thread, about 2/3 down the page. : http://www.nissan4wheelers.com/topic/auto-to-manual-swap-in-progress?page=1 -
Meh, I already have the 2.5" muffler and converter. Figuring I would just keep it all the same size as the Thorley exit tube. Will probably be just fine, especially if I ever get around to that 3.3 swap.
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I fueled the old girl up, and dumped a can of seafoam in the tank. If my trip odometer isn't lying to me, I'm getting just barely over 20mpg! Most of my driving is in 5th gear on the freeway though. Got home and swapped my tachometer out for one that I grabbed from the J/Y last weekend. The new one was out of a 1996 D21, and was missing the cutout for the clock. So I swapped the covers, hoping I didn't screw up the needle alignment. Currently shows just under 1K rpms @ idle. The key thing is that it actually rises and falls with the engine, instead of jumping all over the place like my old one. Unfortunately broke the clear plastic cover to the gauge cluster during the process too, so back to the junkyard for me this weekend! Got my new switches from Summit, but need to drill out my switch panel for the larger switch bodies. Outside of that, my headers are en route, my new O2 sensor is back ordered, and I have a new Flowmaster Super 44 muffler, and matching catalytic converter waiting patiently to be installed, once I find a source for 2.5" stainless 16ga tubing.
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I found these a few months back. Haven't put them on the truck yet, waiting to get new lock cylinders put in them, and a point in my life where I can afford to snowboard. Grabbed a pop out cup holder from a 93 Maxima this morning. Looks like it should bolt up right under my radio. Also have been stocking up on spare relays and fusible links. Found a large blue relay in a Pathfinder this morning, It has four wires, but split between two plugs. I'm still looking for a temp sensor from a maxima (can't find one with the temp sensor in the rad?), a Hardbody transfer shifter, and some TBI parts from the two doors.
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Ordered a 2" body lift. My local supply house doesn't have M12 x 150mm bolts in the extra fine 1.25 thread. Where did everyone else get theirs?
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The relay for the blower motor is on the passenger fender, near the firewall. Check the garage section for the factory service manual downloads. The HA section should have all the info you need. Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk 2
