Harbinger

Sent from my LG-VM701 using Tapatalk 2 The Hardbodies ran until 1997 here in the states. IIRC they still came with vg30s.

Any luck with the cad drawings B?

Ahhh, that's good then. From the pic, it looked like it was welded to the body.

I hear that! I still have systems with IDE ports for similar reasons. Nice work! Thanks for posting this thread, it has been a good one to follow!

Thanks! I rebuilt my clutch master cylinder tonight. Reinstalled it and hooked it up to the hard lines. I'm nearing the end of what I can do while I wait for those engine bolts. Regarding the transfer case switch wiring, I found this blurb in my searches. taken from here: http://www.nissan-offroad.co.za/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=180&start=25#p2238 So if the two transfer switches are wired in series, might it be best to just leave them connected, and not run them anywhere else?

Fixed. I got the lower clutch hydraulic hard lines, lower connecting block, and the (new) soft hose installed tonight.

Let me restate things, for my own clarity. Building this harness, I have the original engine side plugs and wires that came with my pathy. The 76M connector has 4 wires. Two for the speedo (Red & White), and two for the neutral and 4x4 transfer switches. (Yellow/Black & White/Black). There is no green wire running to the connector, but both of my AT switches have a green wire coming from them. I have a 78M (The MT's version of the 76M) from a 94 stick shift pathy, and all the drive train plugs it ran to. IE the MT neutral switch, reverse lights, speedo, and the two transfer switches. The single wire transfer case switches here use the same Yellow/Black and White/Black combination. I also have the 76M connector from a 92, AT pathy. It had the Yellow/Black, White/Black, and green Wires. Here the green wire ran back up to the engine bay and into the harness through the 76M connector. So at some point after the changes made for the 94 model year, they ran the green wire elsewhere. At this point I'm with you in thinking the green wire is a ground for the switches, but I'm still wondering where it went. (NEVER clean the garage while a project is underway, I'm telling ya) I'm half tempted to ground it out to a nearby frame point, but want to do more research first.

If the donor 2wd came with xe level tires, (235/75's?), and your truck came with 31's, that could explain it. Different tire packages came with different speedo gearing.

Thought so. Well got started on the new wiring section running from the engine bay to the tranny/tcase. Hit one snag on the tcase switches. The problem being that the AT Tcase (which I still have) has 3 wires for the two switches. A yellow, white, and a green one that is tied to both switches. The MT t-case switches only have one wire each. Meanwhile, my 76M connector has 4 wires, two of which are the speed sensor. The other two wires on 76M match the yellow and white wires coming out of my t-case switches. This leaves me with that shared green wire and no where to take it.

Call it in to where? Nissan? I already pinged Alkorail (sp?) about it, so I'll see what his reply is.

My truck started as "Pathy" which later morphed to Apathy. Shortly after coining that name I let it sit for two years waiting for a transmission swap. Worst truck name ever.

A number of people have done this swap, but IIRC, all of them have been on VG30/33 trucks. I'm guessing it would be fairly straight forward, but you would have to find a donor MT that was also from a TD truck. I could be wrong of course, as we don't have the diesel here in the states. Mine is still in progress, but beastpath and a few others have completed theirs with good luck. http://www.overlandtrucks.com/system-f/NPTC.pdf http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/Transmission%20Conversion%20Manual_final.pdf http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23822-starting-my-at-to-mt-swap/?hl=swap http://www.nissan4wheelers.com/topic/auto-to-manual-swap-in-progress?page=1

OEM snowboard holders, for the OEM roof rack. Pulled them off a 1994 I found in the local scrap yard. Just have to figure out how to change the lock cylinders, and I'll be in business! Also grabbed a new lower dash piece (don't need one with a gauge hole in it now), a set of OEM spark plug tools (Didn't have those before!), and a skid plate for the transfer case, which mine oddly didn't have.

I found one of the first drafts to the overland r50 swap I posted earlier. http://www.overlandtrucks.com/system-f/NPTC.pdf He was more clearly stated with his wiring there, and I was able to verify the pin outs (despite the wires being different colors in the FSM), that the green & black wires coming off the 7 pin, 80M connector are indeed for the reverse lights (Or rather, for the inhibitor switch's "Reverse" position). The larger, other 80M plug (Brown/Black wires) gets connected to the MT Neutral switch. So couple that with adding my speedo back in to the 76M plug (I believe), I should be fine. When I traced what I think to be 81M on the j/y pathy, it led to the top of the AT. Don't the 4 wheel drive pathys get their speedometer readings from the transfer case?

Thanks Adam, This is my current understanding of those plugs, after a few days browsing the FSM, and tracing the wires back on a 92 J/Y pathy over the weekend. The problem I have with wire colors, is they change after they enter a plug. The colors on 79M don't match the FSM until you check the wires actually coming from the harness. I grabbed a 76M connector that has two switches for the transfer case (Out of an AT 92). I figure I can mix and match that with my 76M to add the red speedo wire. Found a almost mint (for being in a jy) 94 MT over the weekend. Finally was able to grab a fairly rust free lower clutch piping, so I won't have to bend that myself. Grabbed it's ECU too, just in case I want to swap that out sometime in this process, or if it will simplify some of the wiring. I'll probably go back to the JY and get the truck side connectors for the MT, and just wire them up into a new harness using what I have already. My engine bolts are on a slow boat from Japan apparently, due to be here on the 25th of this Month. Still though, I'm getting closer.

So, I'm an idiot. I somehow misplaced the auto side wiring. I'm left with this. According to the writeup for a 96 r50, found here: http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/Transmission%20Conversion%20Manual_final.pdf , I need to: Take the green & brown wire from the 7 wire (inhibitor switch?) plug (80M, EL pg80, I think?) for the reverse lights. Take the two wire, brown and black plug for the neutral switch on the tranny. (Also 80M, EL pg80). I know the 3 wire plug (white, black, white) 77M (EL pg 80) is for a heated 02 sensor. I'm having trouble identifying the following. The left, middle 3 wire connector. The lower brown 8 wire connector. (76M?, EL pg80) Are these my tranny/transfer sensors/switches? In the lower right is a grey connector with 4 wires, one red, one yellow, and two whites. All of them have grey dots every 25mm or so. Can anyone confirm or otherwise steer me in the right direction on this?

Howdy all, it's been forever and a day, but I'm getting things figured out again. Been working to much to give the truck any love. With the school starting soon, and winter approaching, I've engaged the help of the mechanic who does all the work on my g/f's rig. He's willing to let me help and use his shop for a day and a modest fee. Will be worth it to just to be doing this in a cooled shop vs outside on the gravel. I did replace my RMS a few months ago! I have new engine to transmission bolts coming from Alkorahil,(Misplaced the old ones, and there are some length differences vs the auto ones) and a new slave cylinder coming in from Rockauto. Things to do before I tow her down to the shop: Rebuild my clutch MC. Figure out a proper length for the lower clutch hardline, and bend an existing brake line to match. Obtain new fluids for every where. She has been up on jack stands too long! Do what wiring I can. Install and wire pedal switches. Do I install an ASCD on both the brake and clutch pedals? Speaking of wiring: I'm reading a lot of posts about how to wire this by jumping the Park Neutral relay? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31899-truck-not-starting-after-at-to-mt-swap/?p=601697 Has anyone wired it up to the clutch so it won't start in gear?

I had them mounted vertically, on the top rail of the tire carrier.

If you get the switch repaired, it would be a good idea to throw the headlights onto a relay-activated circuit. Saves wear and tear on the switch.

http://www.trail-gear.com/hi-lift-jack-mount I used those. Took my truck down to a local fab shop (before the tranny died) and had them welded to the top tube of my tire carrier for the cost of a 12pk of beer.

Well, finally found a shop in town that had 10.9 bolts in stock. They shortest they had was 40mm, so I cut them down to 30mm this morning. Got my pilot bushing hammered into place with a socket. It looks like it could move back a few mm's, but it wasn't budging any farther? It has cleared the conical imprint in the crank so I'm hoping it will suffice. Then installed my flywheel and got it locktighted and torqued. Will get to the clutch this weekend!

Just in case anyone finds this thread using the search function in the future... Page EL-11.