Harbinger

X2 on re-indexing the torsions. Unless something is physically wrong with one of them, IE bent or other wise damaged, they don't normally go bad.

Most wd21s had their fog lights knocked off at one time or another. The switch doesnt do anything because the lights arent physically there anymore. <br /> It isnt in the manual because the console switched fogs were a dealer installed option. <br /> <br />

Today I pulled my ecu codes. It is throwing a 14, 33, and 34. The 14 is because my transfer case wiring is still disconnected so I can hunt for the short that was blowing my meters fuse. For the others, I'm looking to relocate my knock sensor, and replace my exhaust since it is rusted to crap. The o2 sensor will get replaced along with the whole kit and kaboodle. Then installed a new battery tie down since my new battery is taller than the optima I had. For being a used battery it is holding up great. Was resting at 12.6 earlier today. Then cleaned up the truck a bit, and put my storage tub full of spare fluids and tools back into the back, and lashed it down with a ratchet strap.

We have been at slightly below freezing at night, and slightly above during the day. Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk 2

Agreed to a point. Wire feed (mig/gmaw and flux/fcaw processes) are the easiest welding processes. However, the innershield flux core wire that doesn't require a shielding gas has more penetration than the solid wire mig process, which requires a shielding gas. This is due to the oxidizers in the flux that add heat to the arc. It also makes for an ugly bead with more spatter. This is why most cheaper 110v welders use innershield flux cored wire. The other form of flux core wire, commonly known as dual shield does use a shielding gas. You wont find this wire in a smaller welder though, ad it requires a lot of power to use it properly. Ie in spray transfer, not short circuiting. Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk 2

Today I cleaned my battery & alternator grounds. Also found that my "Meters" fuse was blown. Disconnected the speedo wiring, and replaced the fuse. My battery light is now off, my rear defrost works again, and best of all, my blower motor powers up. I'll get around to checking the speedo wiring sometime this week.

Success! I did some goggling referring to the meter fuse. http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/3da6q-does-meter-fuse-keep-blowing-1995-nissan-path.html They reference that it is usually related to the speedo wire rubbing through it's insulation and shorting out. So I went and bought some new 10a fuses (Popped my last one this morning) and in the parking lot, I disconnected the 4 wire plug that runs to the speedo sensor and the transfer case switches, and then replaced the fuse. All of the affected systems (Rear defrost, blower motor, and the cluster) are now working, and no battery/charge light to be seen, with the exception of the speedo being disconnected. I'll inspect the affected speedo wiring later and see what needs replaced. I'm glad it was simple. At the end of the day, at least I got a new maxima alt and a fresher battery out of the ordeal.

Looking at the FSM, that 10amp fuse ties into a bunch of systems. <br /> <br /> "Meter and gauge, warning lamp, interlock emergency relay, ascd, ecm, back up lamp, seat belt timer, ac, rear window defogger, at control system, daytime running lamps, at shift lock, and the power antennae. "<br /> <br /> So the short could be in one of my affected systems. Will try and get the truck into a warm shop sometime this week and start digging.<br />

Grrr, wish we could still edit posts. Took a look at my fuses again. The 10Amp one marked "Meter" was blown. I replaced it, and it blew again when I started the truck. Left it empty for now. Looks like I get to start chasing a short, somewhere...

The battery read 14.6V when idling this morning, with the high beams on and the stereo turned up. I don't have any other working equipment to turn on right now. Ok, I wire wheeled the bolts for the battery fender ground, and the alt ground. Also sanded down the contact points & wire ends to bare metal and re-attached. Removed what rust I could from the bolt holes. (Will have to get some liquid electrical tape today.). No changes in the cab. Still have a battery light and a bunch of systems that aren't responding.

I will do that when I get some time this week. Should probably run a fatter ground wire anyway, now that I have a maxima alt.

So a few weeks ago, I got in the truck and the battery light was on. My blower motor also suddenly would not work on any speed. A week later, my rear defrost dies, and my speedo, odometer, & trip odometer stopped working. I haven't driven the truck enough to tell if the fuel/temp gauges are affected or not. I've replaced the blower motor with a j/y one. No worky. I have power on the + terminal of the blower motor plug, but don't have continuity from the - terminal and ground. Then again, my multimeter doesn't always register continuity when the electrodes are touching each other... Looking at the FSM, all of these things share the same grounds, namely the two in the cab, one in each foot well. I have removed, cleaned, and replaced both of them. The wiring looked fine. I also removed the passenger side one in the engine compartment that is used by the blower motor relay for a cleaning. I looked for the ground near the ecu, but wasn't able to find it? Over the past few weeks it would not start after a few days of sitting. Always read over 14v when running, but the battery would rest around 12.1V. A fresh charge always started her up. Today I replaced the battery with a j/y one (So far is holding a charge better than my previous battery.), and swapped the alternator for a remaned one from a 93 Maxima SOHC. Now shows 14.4ish when running, and resting voltage is around 12.4. I also ran a new 4ga power cable from the alt positive to the battery positive. I still have a battery light on. Does anyone have any ideas? Is there a common point where all these problems intersect that I am missing? All of the fuses for the affected systems look to be in working order...

Today I continued to chase my battery light issue. Replaced the 4 year old battery with 2 year old battery from the junkyard. So far it's holding onto voltage better than the previous one. Replaced the alternator with a new Maxima one. It was supposed to be a V40 quest one, but I goofed on the bracket, and I didn't have access to a grinder/welder at that location. Ran a new 4ga cable from the alt + to the battery +. New alt & air conditioner belts too. I tried to install the new PS belt but I could not for the life of me get it to stretch on to the last pulley. All that and I still have a battery light lit up on the dash.

I would relay your current headlights. It is cheaper and has proven results. It certainly helped out my rig! That being said, if you give the leds a shot, let us know how they work for you!

Ha, no I haven't tried hitting it. I replaced it yesterday with one from a junkyard. Still no worky. (Didn't have $55 for a new one.) I'll have to hook the motors up to a battery or something to test them, but I've got a feeling something else is going on. This all started the same morning that my battery issues started. Fast draining battery, charge light lit up on the dashboard. I installed my trans tunnel cover, and replaced the fuel filter a few days ahead of that, so I'm hoping I didn't crush any wiring while doing all that.

That's my thought too. I'm at the point in the fsm manual ac diagnostic where as long as my new switch checks out, it says to replace the blower motor. Will see about picking one up on my way home from work. Thanks guys. Sent from my LG-VM701 using Tapatalk 2

I have 12v between the top of the blower motor harness and a body ground. I don't have continuity between the blower motor negative harness and body ground.<br /> <br /> The resistor pack has continuity between terminals. <br /> <br /> Sent from my LG-VM701 using Tapatalk 2<br />

Ok, I was taking measurements wrong. I have 12v between the top terminal of the blower motor connector and body ground. I'm currently on step E of the Manual Air Conditioner Diagnostic, (HA-45) but it is too dark to work. Which involves checking the new switch I put in. I'll look at it more tomorrow when I get off of work.

Ok, I made the mistake of trying to just remove the fan speed switch. Still have no idea where some of those springs went, so I went to the j/y real fast, and pulled a new HVAC control unit out of a 1994 wd21. Still not working. No power to the blower motor. It's getting dark out now, so it will have to wait. I'm going to crack a beer and go through the FSM some more...

'Ello all. So got in my truck this morning, and my fan wasn't blowing on any speed. It's a bit cold out to be running around without a heater! Anywho, got home from school today, and did some investigating. Both of the 15A fuses are fine. I have no power at the blower motor (either with the engine running, or the key in the ACC position), and no power on pins 1 or 2 on the blower relay. (The one right behind the relay box on the passenger side of the engine bay.) The one good thing is I cleaned out my resistor pack while I was in there. Right now I'm thinking it's the switch, but I'm not sure how to get it out, and then test it. Thought I would ping everyone here before I go back outside and get frustrated.