Harbinger

Up until I installed my headers last week, the oil pressure wire had snapped. No light. Hooked it back up, and now get a light for the first second or two during the first start of the day, probably due to the oil filter relocation.

For where the mounts are - there are several threads on this site that go through the process. The simpler method is to look under the right and left sides of your rig. There are 5 on each side. As far as difficulty/rust issue. I don't live on the rust coast, and had to grind the heads off of two bolts that were frozen. Once that was done I was able to pull them out from above. The tricky ones are the rear, as they screw into captive nuts that are welded under the rear floor pan. Sometimes the spot welds break and allow the nuts to spin - but there are threads on this site that show the location to cut, so that you can access the nut.

Might try alkorail - He is the local OEM parts dealer. For what it is worth though, the oil switch wire connector has been missing from mine since I bought the truck - it is just a female spade connector connecting it to the switch. Still works fine.

Being sway-a-way, I'm guessing maybe they are just an older version of their current models?

Only ones that come to mind are the engine/transmission/transfer cases, and that the r50 console looks good in an WD21.

Yes, and I'm not going to. My thorleys are already ceramic coated, and wrapping them voids the warranty. Also haven't come across anything online that says that wrapping headers is a good idea. But some header wrap around my fuel/oil lines would give me some piece of mind.

Got my truck back from the muffler place today. Engine is running a lot happier with the new o2 sensor, and the truck sounds good. Not too loud but definitely more of a beast than stock. Shop told me I have an exhaust leak from the rear most bol on the driver's side header. So will need to either replace the gasket or add more permatex copper. Zip tied some of my oil/power steering lines farther away from the header. If I still think they are exposed to too much heat, I'll see about finding an insulative wrap for them. Don't think there is an easy way to fab a heat shield for that location.

Got my headers fully installed and tightened today. Bought a pair of long needle nose pliers that helped me get that last bolt threaded. Also had to buy a new band clamp @ 2.5", as the 2" one I ordered (must have read bad info online) was to small. Installed the new egr valve with a new gasket and tube. Got it all back together and it wouldn't start. So I cleaned my battery terminals (removed the battery to make clearance for mounting the remote oil filter, somehow it went from starting to to dirty to start over night.) and all is well, with no oil leaks, and no perceptible exhaust leaks. It is revving up to about 3K at startup now, but the y-pipe isn't connected to the old exhaust right now. Really looking forward to seeing how it sounds/runs tomorrow, after the new 02 sensor, and flowmaster cat & muffler are installed. Also replaced my drivers side torsion bar. I was an idiot, and slipped with my grinder when cutting out the old exhaust, and left a 1/4" cut in the old bar. Didn't want it breaking on me next weekend when camping. So will adjust my ride height tomorrow morning before the exhaust appointment, once I get to a friends house that has a level concrete pad. Already have an alignment scheduled for Thursday.

You aren't kidding! I will be using plenty of anti seize on the new parts! Today I: Reinstalled my oil filter relocation kit with solid barbs instead of the leaky swivels. Changed my oil in the process. Got my headers and y pipe mounted, but not torqued yet. Any advice for getting the passenger side y pipe to header connection complete? Wasn't able to get the washer/nut combo threaded onto the bolt closest to the LCA. Successfully removed my broken egr valve, and the smaller hard line that runs to it. Tomorrow I hope to finalize the headers and egr situation. Have an appointment on Monday to get the rest of my exhaust replaced.

Patsy, In my tranny swap thread, I reference a pirate 4x4 forum post that shows the differences between auto and 5 speed transfer cases. The only difference between the two is the 5 speed tx10 has an oil catch under the input shaft. The consensus was that you can use an auto tx10 on a 5 speed, but not a MT tx10 on an automatic, without grinding off the oil catch. I am using my original auto tx10 with my manual transmission.

Today I removed all of my exhaust studs, minus the one broken one. Will tackle that one before work tomorrow.

Tried heating/quenching it this morning. No dice. Thought I'd remove it from the EGR valve up top, and work on it on a bench vise. Not 30 seconds later the part of the EGR valve that connects to the tube snapped clean off. Have a new tube coming from alkorhail, and a bosch egr valve coming from Rockauto. Guess I didn't need my savings anyway.

Started the process of installing my Thorleys today. Had to cut the old y-pipe out because all the bolts were so rusted. Unbolted both exhaust manifolds. So far one broken stud, and 4 studs extracted themselves while I was unbolting everything. Hopefully no more will break when I remove the remaining studs. Picked up a set of left hand drill bits, a center punch, and a right angle attachment for my drill to take care of the one broken one. Also picked up the parts to replace the leaky swivels on my oil filter relocation kit. I'm also REALLY glad I did that body lift a few months ago, this process would have really sucked without that extra clearance. The one place I'm stuck at is the EGR connection. Thing doesn't want to budge, and is starting to round off even after soaking in PB blaster, hammer strikes, and continued heating with a propane torch. Thinking I may have to come up with a way to either splice in a new connection, or replace the pipe section completely, as I do need it to pass emissions. Any ideas?

I installed and wired up the LED turn signals in my new bumper. Ran to the parts store and picked up an electronic flasher. Now I have sequential arrow LED turn signals on the front.

Nice! I need to do that soon. Today I fixed my low beams. A wire pulled out from the relay socket I have them wired up to. Cannibalized a spare socket I had. Also did the pre-wiring for the hella 500 fog lights that will be going on my new bumper. Then I cleaned my MAF, and my K&N oil filter. Threw on some new wipers to boot.

I'm running MT-90 in mine.

If it is quarter inch it should be beefy indeed! How does it bolt to the truck?

Looking pretty good. What thickness of metal did you use?

Ok, snapped some pics. http://imgur.com/a/8coys The first pic shows the outside of the frame rail, and the connector block (The one with the yellow dot on it from the JY). The upper line comes from the dampener, and the lower line runs under the passenger side frame rail, and back up the other side. That is where the next pic shows it connecting to the rubber hose line, underneath the starter. Hope this helps.

I'll try and answer best I can. 1) No, I believe the lengths are different. I bought some new 10.9 bolts at a local supplier and cut them to length. 2) I believe flywheel shims are for shimming flywheels that have been machined after some hard use. If you buy a new flywheel you won't need to shim it. 3) My truck didn't have the AT adapter, so I didn't have to remove it. I think there are tools made, but I don't know enough to comment. 4) Have no idea. VG30 5 speeds are somewhat common locally. 5) I don't have a pic handy, but can snap one later. IIRC, from the slave cylinder, a rubber flex line runs to a point on the inside frame rail. From there the hard line runs over the frame rail to another connector block that runs to the dampener.

Here is another vote for a 5 speed. I prefer them so much that I swapped my automatic over to a 5speed when the auto blew up on me. Compared to auto pathys, the manuals feel like they have quite a bit more pep, and I am seeing better fuel economy now versus when it was an automatic.