Harbinger

So, I'm an idiot. I somehow misplaced the auto side wiring. I'm left with this. According to the writeup for a 96 r50, found here: http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/Transmission%20Conversion%20Manual_final.pdf , I need to: Take the green & brown wire from the 7 wire (inhibitor switch?) plug (80M, EL pg80, I think?) for the reverse lights. Take the two wire, brown and black plug for the neutral switch on the tranny. (Also 80M, EL pg80). I know the 3 wire plug (white, black, white) 77M (EL pg 80) is for a heated 02 sensor. I'm having trouble identifying the following. The left, middle 3 wire connector. The lower brown 8 wire connector. (76M?, EL pg80) Are these my tranny/transfer sensors/switches? In the lower right is a grey connector with 4 wires, one red, one yellow, and two whites. All of them have grey dots every 25mm or so. Can anyone confirm or otherwise steer me in the right direction on this?

Howdy all, it's been forever and a day, but I'm getting things figured out again. Been working to much to give the truck any love. With the school starting soon, and winter approaching, I've engaged the help of the mechanic who does all the work on my g/f's rig. He's willing to let me help and use his shop for a day and a modest fee. Will be worth it to just to be doing this in a cooled shop vs outside on the gravel. I did replace my RMS a few months ago! I have new engine to transmission bolts coming from Alkorahil,(Misplaced the old ones, and there are some length differences vs the auto ones) and a new slave cylinder coming in from Rockauto. Things to do before I tow her down to the shop: Rebuild my clutch MC. Figure out a proper length for the lower clutch hardline, and bend an existing brake line to match. Obtain new fluids for every where. She has been up on jack stands too long! Do what wiring I can. Install and wire pedal switches. Do I install an ASCD on both the brake and clutch pedals? Speaking of wiring: I'm reading a lot of posts about how to wire this by jumping the Park Neutral relay? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31899-truck-not-starting-after-at-to-mt-swap/?p=601697 Has anyone wired it up to the clutch so it won't start in gear?

I had them mounted vertically, on the top rail of the tire carrier.

I strapped one meant for a hatch back onto my spare tire. Worked great, except for having to duck everytime you walked around the back of the truck! There are hitch mount ones that stick out far enough, and they do make racks specifically for strapping to an exterior spare.

If you get the switch repaired, it would be a good idea to throw the headlights onto a relay-activated circuit. Saves wear and tear on the switch.

http://www.trail-gear.com/hi-lift-jack-mount I used those. Took my truck down to a local fab shop (before the tranny died) and had them welded to the top tube of my tire carrier for the cost of a 12pk of beer.

Well, finally found a shop in town that had 10.9 bolts in stock. They shortest they had was 40mm, so I cut them down to 30mm this morning. Got my pilot bushing hammered into place with a socket. It looks like it could move back a few mm's, but it wasn't budging any farther? It has cleared the conical imprint in the crank so I'm hoping it will suffice. Then installed my flywheel and got it locktighted and torqued. Will get to the clutch this weekend!

Just in case anyone finds this thread using the search function in the future... Page EL-11.

When I did mine, I burned the old ones out with a torch and some MAPP gas. I had a local off road shop press the new ones in for me.

I haven't met a filter it couldn't remove, but oil changes aren't something I do too often.

I ended up buying a metal oil filter wrench that fits onto a 3/8ths ratchet. The tighter you press on the ratchet, the more the wrench arms bite into the filter. Bought it when I got tired of the screwdriver trick on my previous vw.

Good call Adam. Thanks! Sadly this will have to wait till Monday, unless I decided to go the stealer route. Every. Single. Fastener shop that carries 10.9 M10x1.0 bolts are closed on the weekend. Being in America, I already know my local hardware stores don't carry that great of a metric selection....damnit. EDIT - Well I take that back, but the highest grade I can find is 8.8.

Granted it was two years ago, but the moog tre's I bought from rockauto, were in fact, moog. The weirdest thing I've had happen with rockauto was receiving panhard bushings. I ordered an off brand and received nissan oem...

The local fastner place was closed by the time I got off work today. I'll try again tomorrow. Also, that 42 bucks is nearly my entire net worth at the moment. Luckily the local place is known for giving me free bolts, due to the small quanities I require!

Holy posts batman! Finally got some time to crawl under the rig again. Have the rear engine plates installed. Also cleaned the tranny and the t-case and got them mated with fresh black rtv silicone. Have installed the shifters, but think I'll take out the 5spd shifter and acquire a new bushing for it. My present problem is with installing the flywheel. It is a brand new Sachs unit, and I don't have flywheel specific bolts. Just the same 6 that held the AT "flywheel". They are way short. When placed through the new flywheel, they have maybe 3 threads exposed. So I'm going to look into finding some longer M10x1.0 bolts for the flywheel locally, but the local stealer wants nearly 7 bucks per bolt. I'd order some from Rob but I'm growing impatient and want my truck back!

I hope you can get some help here. I just had to comment that it is nearly 43C on my side of the USA right now, it is good to know people still want to be warm else where!

Is it wrong that I was expecting him to jump?

My electric trike will do 35mph... Granted, not in mud or snow.

I'm currently a stripper. Well, by that I mean I work part time in a furniture restoration shop. Currently working on a roll top desk, with the newest copyright being issued in 1887. I also work for a lady who owns a xeric landscaping business. First job was as a shop bitch at 14 years old. Cleaned cars, changed oil, and ran errands. The past decade I was working for HP testing their laser printers and associated software. Gods am I glad that is over! Currently I'm in school learning to weld.

Can we no longer edit posts? Anywho, didn't want to wait to order genuine parts (The local dealer here NEVER has anything in stock), so between two different parts houses I was able to find fel-pro gaskets for the rear main seal retainer and the rubber gasket that goes between the retainer and the oil pan. All surrounding a new nissan rear main seal, woot! Unfortunatley a piece of the old gasket fell into the oil pan, so I guess I'll be doing an oil change before I start her up again. Just got those installed, will let the rtv dry overnight and hopefully get my flywheel & clutch installed tomorrow. Forgot to update a few months back, but I also have new sway-away t-bars to install once the new transmission is in!

My swap is still in progress. With school and the outside temps, it's finally warm enough to crawl under the truck again. Which is what I did today. Have the RMS removed and replaced in it's retainer, but am confused if I can just use RTV silicone or if I need to get a gasket like what was on there before. Also wondering if I should replace the rubber piece that fits under the RMS retainer and above the oil pan.

Took the 4 bolts out of the RMS retainer. Tried prying it off but chipped the retainer. Got itchy arms from the sound proofing material I was laying on. Need to go find more cardboard. Realized I can't find any of the 3 packages of blue rtv I was sure I had. Now off to grab some cardboard boxes of an apropriate size, rtv silicone, and beer.

I looked at my truck with a bit of sadness. Suddenly a spark of light appeared when I realized the ground under her isn't covered in snow. Now that temps are getting closer to the melting point, the sooner I can give the ole girl some love.