Harbinger

When I did mine, I burned the old ones out with a torch and some MAPP gas. I had a local off road shop press the new ones in for me.

I haven't met a filter it couldn't remove, but oil changes aren't something I do too often.

I ended up buying a metal oil filter wrench that fits onto a 3/8ths ratchet. The tighter you press on the ratchet, the more the wrench arms bite into the filter. Bought it when I got tired of the screwdriver trick on my previous vw.

Good call Adam. Thanks! Sadly this will have to wait till Monday, unless I decided to go the stealer route. Every. Single. Fastener shop that carries 10.9 M10x1.0 bolts are closed on the weekend. Being in America, I already know my local hardware stores don't carry that great of a metric selection....damnit. EDIT - Well I take that back, but the highest grade I can find is 8.8.

Granted it was two years ago, but the moog tre's I bought from rockauto, were in fact, moog. The weirdest thing I've had happen with rockauto was receiving panhard bushings. I ordered an off brand and received nissan oem...

The local fastner place was closed by the time I got off work today. I'll try again tomorrow. Also, that 42 bucks is nearly my entire net worth at the moment. Luckily the local place is known for giving me free bolts, due to the small quanities I require!

Holy posts batman! Finally got some time to crawl under the rig again. Have the rear engine plates installed. Also cleaned the tranny and the t-case and got them mated with fresh black rtv silicone. Have installed the shifters, but think I'll take out the 5spd shifter and acquire a new bushing for it. My present problem is with installing the flywheel. It is a brand new Sachs unit, and I don't have flywheel specific bolts. Just the same 6 that held the AT "flywheel". They are way short. When placed through the new flywheel, they have maybe 3 threads exposed. So I'm going to look into finding some longer M10x1.0 bolts for the flywheel locally, but the local stealer wants nearly 7 bucks per bolt. I'd order some from Rob but I'm growing impatient and want my truck back!

I hope you can get some help here. I just had to comment that it is nearly 43C on my side of the USA right now, it is good to know people still want to be warm else where!

Can we no longer edit posts? Anywho, didn't want to wait to order genuine parts (The local dealer here NEVER has anything in stock), so between two different parts houses I was able to find fel-pro gaskets for the rear main seal retainer and the rubber gasket that goes between the retainer and the oil pan. All surrounding a new nissan rear main seal, woot! Unfortunatley a piece of the old gasket fell into the oil pan, so I guess I'll be doing an oil change before I start her up again. Just got those installed, will let the rtv dry overnight and hopefully get my flywheel & clutch installed tomorrow. Forgot to update a few months back, but I also have new sway-away t-bars to install once the new transmission is in!

My swap is still in progress. With school and the outside temps, it's finally warm enough to crawl under the truck again. Which is what I did today. Have the RMS removed and replaced in it's retainer, but am confused if I can just use RTV silicone or if I need to get a gasket like what was on there before. Also wondering if I should replace the rubber piece that fits under the RMS retainer and above the oil pan.

Took the 4 bolts out of the RMS retainer. Tried prying it off but chipped the retainer. Got itchy arms from the sound proofing material I was laying on. Need to go find more cardboard. Realized I can't find any of the 3 packages of blue rtv I was sure I had. Now off to grab some cardboard boxes of an apropriate size, rtv silicone, and beer.

I looked at my truck with a bit of sadness. Suddenly a spark of light appeared when I realized the ground under her isn't covered in snow. Now that temps are getting closer to the melting point, the sooner I can give the ole girl some love.

I got my painted one last week. Haven't pulled the old one yet but the quick comparison looked pretty good.

Awesome! I might get this before I get my transmission in after all! Thanks for all the effort dowser!

I upgraded from worn 235's to 31x10.5 Yoko Geolanders over the summer. Within about 50 miles of having them on however, my transmission died. They do look good on the new cragars though!

Yeah, lots of varying opinions. Seafoam really helped my motorcycle out last spring, and I have a can in my truck to stabilize the gas. Never done the vac/crankcase/exhaust though, so well, there ya go.

Heh, bike tires do add up when you start putting on the miles! Today I looked at my pathy woefully as I pulled my motorcycle out of the garage.

Well got my rear main seal this week. School is keeping me busy though as the temps have dropped down to an average of 30F. I'm looking for part time jobs too at the moment, so time is at a premium.

I put the rancho version on my truck after replacing all the steering components up front. My only complaint (as it is very beefy) is having to grind off the factory tab on the centerlink.

Ha, I hope it's getting closer. I'm being blessed with 60-70 degree sunny days lately. My problem is all of my classes deciding to ramp up as the semester starts it's downward slope! I do need to run to the hardware store/junk yards and find some bolts to hold the clutch assembly to the fly wheel. Also noticed that the T-case uses a few different bolts with the MT's due to differences in the transmission sides. I

Ouch on the tie rod ends! Have you heard of rockauto.com? They offer discounts to NPORA members so it might save you a buck in the future. There is also a forum member here that works at a Nissan parts dealer, you can find his info in the services(?) sectiion. I bet new tension rod bushings (have a welder on hand when you do those, just incase the bearing cups need repaired), new idler (Plus a brace if you want to beef it up) and a centerlink would tighten everything right up. The stock CL's on these trucks use ball joints on the ends, as I'm sure you've seen. They don't last near as long as they should, and that's why a lot of people update if they plan to (gently) abuse their rigs. I'm currently catching a lot of flak for spending repair money on my rig too. At the end of the day though I own it outright and I'd rather fix it than scrap it.

I believe the 3 gauge pods being ordered in this thread hold 3 standard 2 &1/16" gauges.