Harbinger

At least in the USA they didn't. I've found listings for canadian 96-97 V6 trucks however.

Ha ha! I did that on my truck when I replaced the bjs last summer. Fixed it before I put her on the ground though.

Magic dvd ripper has a free download and will rip dvds to a few forms of files. Its shareware but as long as you don't close the program it will run indefinatley.

So I got her pushed back into the driveway and back up on jack stands today. Got the torison bar xmember out today after a few hours of prying and pb blasting. Looking at the exhaust cross pipe, its all so very corroded. Wasn't able to find one bolt that wouldn't strip off when I got a socket on it. Am debating about just taking a saw or a grinder too it and then taking her to an exhaust shop when I get the swap done. Also got the tranny cooler, filter and temp gauge removed today. Will be putting all that on the for sale forum soon.

I thought it was about time I updated this! Picked this up today from a local scrap yard who had it sitting on a shelf already pulled. It's a 1998 R50 Manual with 168k on it and came with a warranty. I'm hoping that by using the updated post-96 transmission I can avoid one that never got the TSB memo... Being that it's a newer transmission meant for the 3.3, it's listed as having a different clutch kit than the WD21's. I emailed exedy and got this response. I need to find a 3.3 flywheel and compare it to mine, since if that will match up I think the newer clutch kit would be the way to go since wouldn't the release bearing be specific to the transmission? Progress on the truck has been slow. School is keeping me way busy and we're finally getting the driveway to a point where I can pull the truck back up onto it. Need to get that autotragic out of there!

I'm actually finding more hardbodies in the closest j/y. Last time I went it was 5 HB's to one 88 pathy. Found a 1998 Infiniti Qx4 that looked enough like an R50, but it was fairly stripped already. Looking at exedy clutches, they use different clutch kits between the 94-95, 96-97 and 98-99's. I'm not sure what to make of that.

Random thought, but for those of us with WD21's that need new transmissions, would it be better to source a 5 speed from the R50's?

No armor yet, but I'm going to school for metals fab so it is planned. Mostly I have the bars out for my tranny swap, and with the corroded splines I figured what better time to upgrade.

I'll be replacing my t-bars since I finally got the old ones out. Haven't found any good threads detailing the differences between the different options, so here I am. Thoughts on Calmini T-bars vs Sway Away? https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-torsion-bars-by-sway-way-1987-1995-p-3880.html?osCsid=bm591ev20a8f575f7p5nm9f004 http://www.purenissan.com/hd_torsion_bars.htm They both offer 20% higher spring rate I thought AC's were just rebadged Sway Aways, but they say they have a 30% increase? https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-torsion-bars-p-94.html Thanks guys.

I'm running Yoko Geolander AT/S's - never seen them marketed as run flats. Idaho requires front plates too. Growing up here I first found it odd that it isn't like that everywhere! Also, it's your own damn fault if you don't install the front plate. They give you both plates at the dmv when you pay your registration... They will even loan you a screwdriver to install the plates with! I'd like to see some more strict(er) rules here. We have emissions testing in my county (unlike the rest of the state) and we're trying to get it implemented in the next county over. Doesn't do much good to test our vehicles when any hick can drive his smoking heap over here. I've seen poor scenarios with tires before too. I worked in a corner shop through high school. Can't even count all the times I had to turn people away because a tire was too worn to repair, or we couldn't safely work on something without overhauling the whole front end. Just the other day I heard a "fwap fwap fwap" sound coming down the street. When it finally appeared it was an old jeep truck that had one of the front tires coming apart and fwapping against the road as he drove (very) slowly. One of my favorite memories is someone coming in with this ugly green old chevy van, complaining of a ticking noise. Yeah, he was only about 4 quarts low on oil....

I'd worry about attracting undue attention from the local authorities with blue leds...

Get a mid sized mutt. Pure breeds are all neurotic.

This is what I was thinking of. http://m.optimabatteries.com/tech-tips/charging.html Apparently older chargers with an agm/gel mode can undercharge and cause damage over time. I'll be looking at getting one of these. http://smartercharger.com/products/batterychargers/ctek-multi-us-7002/

http://www.optimabat...-care/charging/ Hrmmm, I can't find the paper that came with my Red Top, but the instructions on Optima's website doesn't mention anything specific. Guess I'll put my charger on it (since the truck is sitting awaiting a transmission) and hope it doesn't blow up! Planning on installing a second yellow top in the rear of the truck when all my wishes come true! Hrmmm, they only specify to use a charger under 15 amps in this video...nothing about special modes.

What are you guys using to charge your AGM batteries? (Inb4 alternator). The instructions said I couldn't use a normal charger if it's agm mode is a gel/agm setting? Wouldn't see why it would matter if a normal vehicle alt works...

I read somewhere that the 94 FSM worked for the 95's since it is more "complete." Can't remember where I read that, so maybe download the 94 and 95 ones?

Hear hear! I have a Optima Red Top in my truck. I've only had it in there for a few months but I'm really happy with it. Will probably add a yellow top when I can afford a second battery.

x2 Certainly seems worth a shot! How are you mounting the plow? All the ones I've seen down here have hydraulics to raise/lower them as well as additional lights mounted higher than the plow. We get very little snow compared to you though, so I'm curious to see how you set it up!

I concur, from what I've seen of rebuilding CV's and replacing boots, it is far easier to just replace the axle.

This might be silly, but have you checked over the general condition of the truck? Checked for loose ball joints, leaks, changed all the fluids (including diffs and t-case), tuned it up etc? Mods are awesome but in my personal experience modding leads to replacing factory parts along the way.

Well I have made some more progress! A few days ago I ran to the local pull a part. Grabbed the following off a 1987 2wd V6 D21. A brake pedal Clutch pedal Clutch master cylinder Slave cylinder Upper clutch hydraulic lines Slave cylinder to lower block hard line connecting block from lower hard line to rubber line Misc bolts/nuts/relays That rubber/metal insulating bit that covers the lower part of the steering column. All for less than 25 bucks! I've now got the pedals installed along with the steering column. Also have the clutch cylinders installed and the top clutch hydro line. I've rewired my battery cable and the light trigger wires so the truck starts again. With that i pulled the line coming from my tranny cooler and had a buddy start the truck. Happy to say that the filter/cooler aren't blocked when they are plumbed correctly! Drained the tranny and the t case next. I had to take her off the jack stands and push her into the street. Landlord is having new gravel dropped off for my driveway tomorrow. Not looking forward to shoveling that. Oddly enough, after all the banging/heating and what not that I did to the last tbar, it pulled out with one hand after I dropped the truck to the ground! Progress is progress!

I got some time to try again yesterday. The right side bar dropped out after some more hammering and some love from my heat gun. Spent another hour hammering, heating, and pb blasting the left hand side, and it is still in that torque arm. The dust boot was really thrashed on that side. Hoping more of the beat, heat and treat will get it out. I have a jack under the LCA on the drivers side too, and while it seems to have taken some strain off the bar it still doesn't want to budge. Hoping to beat on it some more today!