Harbinger

No kidding. Replacing all 4 front ball joints took me most of last summer! Granted I did quite a bit more than just ball joints when I had the front end all torn apart. I installed my AC (Rancho) Steering Stabilizer on Saturday.

Poor plane!

I paid $450 for my first pathy. A 1987 with 267K on it. Sold it about two years later for $1400. I paid $1300 for my 1995 with a 193k on it, it's almost up to 197k now.

I drove Apathy in the rain to work. Will probably sacrifice a chicken on my lunch break so I can afford to fill the ole girl up.

And yeah, the handle bars control the steering. Just move them left or right. The handlebars are connected to each other with a link that is under the seat. Cornering at speed requires a bit of leaning, but otherwise it handles really well. In fact with the stainless steel boxes full of batteries, it actually corners better than it did stock.

Yeah there aren't many like it. More if you search the endless sphere forums. The trike by it's self is about $1000 new. I got it used on craigslist last winter for $360. Probably dropped another $1600 or so on electrifying it. (Motor, controller, 8 RC LIPO batteries, a power supply for the $200 RC battery charger, anderson powerpole connectors, wire, etc) I have a windwrap fairing on the front of it now too, to help keep the cold out during the winter commutes and improve the efficiency. At the Idaho rates of about $.10 per kilowatt hour it runs me about a dime a day to run to work and back. I have over 1000 miles on it already, so in terms of paying for gas in the Pathfinder, it's paying its self off. Here is a video I shot when I was assembling it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vtPrfcZne4&feature=player_embedded

This. A 2008ish Actionbent T1 Tadpole trike. Electrified with a 9 continent rear hub motor and powered by 20AH of LIPO batteries @ 48v. With me pedaling along it'll get up and do about 34mph on the flats, and at that rate I get a good 30ish miles before I have to recharge it.

Hey, we match! I got the steering stabalizer kit from AC, a magicshine bicycle head light, cash, new sheets, socks, underwear, etc. Best thing was the 42" LCD TV and new 5.1 HDMI reciever I bought for myself.

I was able to get a socket/breaker bar in there for removal. Installation I used a 24mm wrench. X2 on those being in good shape! Good thing you changed them when you did. By the point I got this far I had to order up two new rods.

Today I: Bought a grease gun and greased every zerk in the front end. Installed a K&N air filter and changed the oil. Installed energy suspension bump stops on my LCAs. Put the tires on the front end, and drove it for the first time since June. Still have to adjust the T-bars down a bit, shame those AC 3" coils give so much height! Install the skid plate, get her aligned and bob's yer uncle!

Tonight I finished installing the new bushings/end links on my front sway bar. Bled the new brakes, and greased a few bushings I had missed. Tomorrow she might actually wear her front shoes again!

Just have these two Hella 500's right now. Want more, but still have so many other things to finish before I get around to that!

Yesterday I: Finished installing new tension rods & bushings. Replaced the front sway bar bushings, and one end link. Today I plan on: Running to the hardware store for some new bolts/nuts. Installing the other end link. Hopefully get to changing my oil and installing the oil filter relocation kit. Lessons learned: Often times on a truck with OEM parts still installed after almost 200K miles, the best option is to just cut the rusted bolts with a grinder.

Replaced the front Calipers, Pads & Rotors on Saturday. Also repacked my wheel bearings and slapped my new Warn hubs on. The brakes drag a bit but otherwise turn freely. Do I need to change something? Yesterday started on the Tension rod bushings. Got one tension rod removed but have a frozen bolt on the passenger side, figure I'll take the torch to it tonight, and if that doesn't work, I'm grinding the bastard off. From the looks of the tension rod I'll be ordering new ones as the old metal bushing sleeves are so rusted in place I can't remove them. O'well, what's another week or two of sitting on jack stands? Started on replacing the front sway bar bushings and end links, but ran out of light last night.

Well we'll see how she settles once I can drive her again. Don't really want to go more than 2.5" up front, but might have too if the rear doesn't settle a bit.

Installed my new lift coils + shocks. The AC 3" coils gave me nearly 4" of lift! I'm hoping they'll settle down closer to 3". I then cranked the t-bars up about 2.5" on each side. Need to wait to drive it a bit to see how everything settles, but that won't be till next weekend. Rockauto is awesome and all but waiting for parts sucks! I really want new tires now too...

I recently had the same issue. The answer was in fact, get a bigger hammer. If you can smack the side of the joint hard enough, it will temporarily disfigure the tapered joint to pop it loose.

Installed new TRE's (all 4, + the adjusters) and my new Grassroots CL last night. Combination of all those REALLY tightened up my steering! Also ordered up some Warn manual hubs, so I'll be able to throw her back together once those get in!

Yesterday I drilled the idler arm taper out to 5/8ths, and installed it along with the new AC brace onto the truck. Tonight, I try and pull the steering box to drill out the pitman arm. Wooo.