Harbinger

It fit mine just fine and my pathies stock.

I'm guessing its for the redneck cool factor

Thanks guys -- I won't let the wench get me down -- its better in the long run anyways. Sadly the b-day money is going torwards moving, since rents due at my current place next week and I'm trying to move I'm probably going to get hit twice. But one of the supervisors from the main office I work for loaned me $500 and then she asked if that was enough. lol so it'll work itself out. So I get to move some crap out while shes at work, then go play video games at a friends, and then another friend is taking me out to the bars tonight! Woo!

I'm going to guess it will, since AFAIK the frames are the same between the 2 & 4 door models.

I concur save the money for something else. Course you could always go the route I plan on doing someday: Rattle can snow camo

He he congrats, feels good work on your own stuff huh :-) You save a arse-load of $$ too.

Yowch -- hope the truck turns out ok. And hopefully your son is ok after all of this. As far as the wife, just chain her up in the kitchen. (jk)

Wow Man -- The T-belts on these V6's must be unholy b*tches compared to the one I did on my VW this weekend

As far as running the wires, thats pretty much how my lightbar is setup, wires come out the passenger side of the bar, through a heavily siliconed hole in the roof, down the B pillar, across the floor and up to my ashtray/glovebox.

I wouldn't run any aux lights without a relay IMO, and I even am running 30 amp switches in my setup. Its pretty simple, following the wiring guides provided should do it, just need to run two wires out from the relay output to the two lights you want that relay/switch combo to run.

I'm 24 on friday :-)

I have the same $16 2 ton jack from Wally world *shudder* works great on the VW, but I borrow a larger 3 ton from a buddy whenever I'm working on the pathy.

My 87's Autotragic has (AFAIK) 267,000miles with the stock cooler.

Ouch Dude -- At least you made it out (relativley) ok. Keep us updated!

Well you might be able too, since you really don't need new t-bars (you can re-index the current ones). All you really need to do a SL on these beasts is new UCA's and rear coils.

I dunno If I'd add to many accesories to the stock fuse box. Accesories can draw a lot of amperage so it might be better to give them their own seperate power supply. Not sure what you mean about the spare fuse box That lift kit will do the job, but it doesn't have anything in it that you probably couldn't find cheaper seperately.

True -- but 88 is a driveway mechanic GOD to most of us I'm sure if I was to launch into all that on my pathy tomorrow it wouldn't be done for a week or 2, not without much help bought with beer, pizza and smoke.

Unless your wiring them into a spare spot on the fuse box (not sure if our FB's have them) I'd say you'll need to find an alternate way to place a fuse on your lines. I'd suggest getting an extra fuse block, makes it easy to run one thick wire to the block, and then have 6 or so fused lines going out for whatever you want to hook them up too. Heres a shot of the one I have in my glove box -- not the best place but you should get a idea off of it. Got the fuse plate for $10 or so at a local parts house. EDIT: MZ beats me to it again

Nice pic Vsicks -- but you should photoshop out the tow strap

I'm going to go out on a limb here and label that as snake oil.

So far I'm running at about $200 -- for a oil change and CV axle. Not there isn't money to be spent -- I need a new CL & Shocks BAD! Not to mention some normal tires -- Still only have the studded coopers on there.

I'm not sure of the design of the R50 airbox, but as long as the air tube enters below the air filter/engine intake couldn't you just put some holes in the airbox for the water to drain out of? Thats the way its set up on my vw. But then again I wouldn't do anything like this on my truck

Actually this is a popular thing to do in the VW MKIV forums -- running a CAI tube from the airbox to the front bumper. The consensus is that it can't generate enough of a vacum to suck water all the way up to the airbox/filter. I imagine the same thing applies to the newer pathies. Not to mention unless the box is perfect sealed, air will find another way to enter the box, rather than coming up the tube.

I wouldn't worry about it that scenario -- the dryer tube isn't even connected to the filter, so unless your doing a water crossing or something similar the filter will never see water. Water in the tube wouldn't hurt anything

saucy