GrimGreg

Another way is to lay paper over the window and trace it , then cut it and use it as a template for cutting the film.

There is a crossover tube between the fuel rails, it runs right in front of the intake plenum, make sure the clamps are tight, it is a common leak point. Another common fuel smell cause is the gasket on the fuel pump/sending unit going bad.

My 88 had the 235s stock, and the speedo was off. I put 31s on it and it was right on .

the hardest part is pulling the CV out of the truck. For the inners, you just pop off the metal backing plate and then remove the snap ring on the tri-bearing and slide it off, then slide the shaft out. Can't remember the outer procedure of the top of my head.

I knew a guy who did that, lifted an Xterra by the reciever hitch and once the wheels got airborn, it pivoted into the wall.

Actually you can use an external reader on it to check the codes too. There are some scanners (high end shop types) that can preform certain test modes on your system. My step-dad has a MODIS from Snap-On, it had a MAF and O2 sensor test modes, basically it just reads the signals from the sensors to see that the proper signals are being sent.

It's a 200watt, most of the time I just used the line level output on the head and ran straight into the PA when we were on stage. I was in 1 Metal band, 1 Industrial band and 2 Goth bands in the 90s. 99% of what I played was original music. Only ever had 1 drummer to compete with in practicing, the rest of the bands were sequenced drums.

Electric speedo gremlins.

Yeah, hook up an external cooler and use a dolly and you should have no issues. A full trailer with the car would probably push you very near or over the tow weight rating.

Carefully pry it up with a plastic putty knife. It "locks" into the metal of the door on the window side but the clips will pop loose fairly easily. It can be easier (at least on the fronts) to have the window rolled down.

I'm sure there are ways to rewire it, I know the Toyota guys figured out how to rewire their E-lockers. Wheeled with one who had, and he had a toggle for it on the dash.

I'm a bassist also, for only 15 years though. Yamaha 4 string fretless Ibanez Sound Gear SR400 Peavy Sarzo Signature (4 string, neck through, with active electronics) I play through a Crate BX200 into a Peavy 4x10 stack. I love the warm tone of the Sarzo, but it is a beast, so I tend to use it for recording only. The fretless is nice for smooth slides, but it lacks some depth. The SR is great for stage use, it is light, and has a really thin neck, still not a great tone, but it is much richer than the fretless. I had a BC Rich Warlock at one point, more for fun than anything (it was lavender), because it had the worst tinny sound ever.

Since when is B working for Chrysler?

Actually when he hit the rock it just broke the seal on the pan, it was nice to be able to unbolt that small part off and re-seal it right on the trail, no removing the front diff to pull the pan....

Tellico is controlled by the Forestry Service, not private. AFAIK.

If you plan to wheel it, get skids and sliders. That longer wheelbase and low body are high center nightmares. I just got back from a run and a guy with an 05 hit his lower oil pan on a rock and bent it causing him to bleed oil everywhere. (Yes guys, the newer engines have a 2 piece oil pan, the narrow part that sticks down, where the drain is, is now detachable.)

There is rednecking it to get off the trail, and rednecking it out of sheer lazuness to do it correctly. On the trail anything goes as long as it gets you back to flat ground.

Yes, as long as you can find the right thread size and pitch.

I recall reading a thread on AC once about some "Universal fit" sensors not sending the proper signals for our computers.

See what happens when you buy Honda products, it infects your brain!

Here is mine added on my 93, less modification needed, just needed to cut the stock headliner for the opening.

When I did mine I had to drill out the bolts, saved the threads on one of the 2 (yes the cat side of the flange is threaded). The other one I drilled out and used a new nut and bolt. for a gasket I just used Copper RTV.

Mine (AC tensioner) started squealing 2 years ago, I hit it with some PB Blaster and haven't heard a peep since.

I never tried the vac line, but did the oil and gas addition. How do you get it into the vac line (easily, without spilling it all over)?

They are a universal kit, you can trim down the spacer if it causes any troubles being that long.