GrimGreg

Mine did too, and I'm in the rust belt.

Yeah, can be cheaper to go with headers.

Quick answer; to high COG/top heavy, rear LEAF springs, low hanging center mount gas tank, plastic trim (either breaks or is in the way, looks like crap when removed)......

Are yourunning any kind of lift spring? Could be the difference, as both of mine have larger springs in the rear, I might not be able to stuff as much.

Stock aren't headers, they are manifolds.

Why not just use a socket and ratchet? (All I needed.)

Yep, universal harness and fuse block....however, the one labeled seat heater might have other circuits running through that fuse.

I have yet to bottom my axel out on my rear frame.

Side markers have 2 side screws and one under the front. Grill has 5 top clips, and 1 screw under each headlight, undo those and pull up and out. Be carefull on the bolts holding the headlight mount brackets (3) they can be rusty and snap off. Hit them with some PB Blaster a couple days in advance and again when you go to remove them.

Yeah, that is vacuum, but even working properly you are going to make the engine flutter by pumping the brakes while stopped and idling.

My ex said that her old 200sx's clutch would not work unless she poured oil into the bell housing. I always thought she had a screw loose, and she had gotten rid of the car before I met her, so I have no idea. Usually, if clutch or brake friction materials get soaked with oil they will swell, and become more brittle.

Or *shiver* Xterras

Try slowly lowering the jack on the LCA, the BJ should drop out.

Are you planning you reuse the spacer washers that were on the original setup?

You can buy a used stock tire carrier for the rear, then buy the mount kit which includes the underbody bracing. Or you can find an aftermarket bumper maker who will make one integrated into a bumper.

You are over thinking everything, just follow Pezzy's example.

The local steel place sells 2" .120 wall square tube for about $5/foot (at least last time I bought any, and steel was high then). At that price I could make a set for $100 or even a little less for material cost. As with anything else, most of what you are paying for is the labor cost.

Yeah, IIRC the outside body line was close to 64", so 66" wouuld be about perfect, especially if it had some return on the ends of the bumper.

If it pulls, it is braking more on the front side it pulled toward. Take apart the opposite side and make sure the piston in the caliper isn't froze up.

Yeah, you don't "have to" ease off the T-bars, but it is much safer to do so. Either way you need a jack under the LCA to help seat the new BJ.

Most of the time, of course same goes for the studs also. All but one of my broken studs were broke where the nut was, so the non-threaded part of the stud was still sticking out of the head.

The temp sensor is just above the thermostat, there are 2, one for the guage and one for the ECU. I would double check the water pump, when mine was leaking, it wasn't easily noticable. Also, check the short pipe above the thermostat, it's a pain to replace, but a real pain if it fails.

I dropped the tank the first time I did frame repairs, but I had to patch right next to it then. This year's repairs I wasn't near the tank, but I was near the fuel lines, so I just wrapped them in leather (more to deter a stray arc than anything else).

Probably not, the ECU just reads the temp sensor as a binary figure, off or on. Once the coolent hits a certain temp the sensor will switch and the ECU will reduce the fuel. If the sensor is bad, it doesn't switch, and the ECU just keeps dumping extra fuel thinking the engine is still cold.