GrimGreg

Cry baby.

Wow, bunch o candy asses whining about no power seats. Hell, what stinks is you pretty much can't buy anything (new vehicle wise) with manual controls. I don't want to turn my efin truck on just to open the window or move the seat an inch. Bad enough they DID have heated seats, talk about stupid, get in the car and it feels like someone just farted in the seat and took off, no thanks. If you need heated seats, maybe you should still be suckling your mommy's tit!

Rebuild, hell you haven't even broke it in at that low of milage! These engines aren't like domestics, that need rebuilt every 30k.

Next time just keep your mouth shut and sell them the parts. Then ROFL after they leave.

Whatever you do, make sure to get the level right before starting it. If it is all trapped in the head, then you'll be starved. If it all migrates to the pan like it should, you could seize the engine with that much overfill in the pan.

For the Legos only. But 31s fit with no issues on the steelies too.

Like D rings these on my bumper? They are rated 11000 lbs. each, they are bolted and welded in place.Or is it like the type in my hitch in this pic? It has a 10000 lbs. rating.

Add me to the sell it list.

Yeah, hope the parking brake is good, and you never leave it in gear. I have autostart on my 93 (auto), and it will kill the engine if you move the shifter or hit the brake after starting it if you don't put the key in first.

The only ones you "need" to swap are the rears, to allow full travel. The fronts are at max travel stock, the lift doesn't change it.

Nice thing about the "you-pull-it" lots, you can see what you are getting, if it is junk, just toss it back in the truck, if it is good, take it.

ABS brain

If the rear has new springs, give them a little while to break in, they'll lower a bit.

You can, but don't smooth them, the rough surface helps cause turbulence the air/fuel need to mix (at least this is what I read once from someone who had fully polished theirs). But opening up the intake and exhaust where they meet the manifolds isn't a bad idea.

Nope, 90 was the change over. 28 spline OE manuals are harder to find, but they are out there.

There are various ways to change the output on an engine, different pistons, different stroke (longer/shorter rods), cams, timing, etc. That said, I don't know what differences they made, but the early 300zx has the exact same block and head asour truck's engines. I do know that some VG30s had a different crank, but I think the only difference was how far it stuck out the front of the engine block. I have a whole book for hopping up L series Nissan engines, wish I had the same for the VG series.

Just bypass the stocker, if you are worried about getting to cold, mount the cooler to the top right behind the radiator, that is where the hot coolent comes into the radiator, so some of the heat will radiate back to the cooler. As for the "filter", it is just a screen, ment to be cleaned and reused. You would only need to replace it if it was damaged in some way.

If you want to cut the bass to the speakers you need resistors (crossover), not capacitors. Caps just store voltage. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_crossover

Be sure the tranny is in N also.

Supposed to be, didn't one of Tex's Pathy's have Isuzu rims?

No, that is just a max rating, it won't charge at a rate higher than what you actually need (unless the regulator goes bad).

Make sure the oil sender wire wasn't messed up, it runs down there.

Yes, however the keyed part is held in with security bolts (for obvious reasons) that usually need drilled out to remove.

Clothes: Jeans, T-shirt, work boots. I don't go hunting specific clothes, just use my older, close to worn out stuff. If I listed tools/equipment, it would take a couple pages.

Are you thinking the MAF housing from the Z with your MAF sensor in it, or the Z housing and MAF sensor?