GrimGreg

It should work just fine, the Pathfinder/Hardbody, Maxima, and Z all had the same mount until the Max and Z went to the dual cam heads.

Those are good if you have curved windows, but with all but our windshield being pretty flat, cutting it yourself isn't to hard. Just compare prices.

Like has been said, you are paying for nothing but issues. Rough Country are the best you can get for quality and cost.

There was a thread on AC years ago about similar noise issues. The guy finally cured it by retorquing the bolts on the front crossmember (right under the sway bar mounts). Could give that a shot.

Did you check the cap and rotor too? They could be the root of your wire failure.

That code can come from number of sensor malfunctions. Basically, the ECU is getting bad readings in the O2 sensor or MAF, etc and blaming the injector for the fault.

They do (or did) make long travel kits for 2wd Hardbodys, but the 2wd Hardbody has a completely different front suspension and steering. You should be able to bolt the parts onto your frame, but I'm not certain of that. Stock 2wd Pathfinders use the same suspension and steering as the 4wd, just with a different crossmember where the one holding the front diff is.

Chisel: Cold chisel: Cold chisels are for metal and stone.

The 88 has the RE4R01A (and was used by all V6, 4wd until 95), the 87 has the L3N71B. The L4N71B was the auto tranny used on the 4cyl from 86-90. The V6 2wds used the E4N71B 86-90. 90+ 4cyl used the RL4R01A, and 96 + it was used on all. (this is for WD-21 and D-21) Not sure if there is a major difference in the RE and RL, or what the differences even are myself.

Next time, try a cold chisel rather than a screw driver.

Probably not, if you had the right tools and materials. Heck you could make them out of carbon fiber if you had the right equipment.

No, it only uses the upper frame mount. Here you can see the mounts (just before I chopped em ):

Take it out and clean it before returning it.

It will bolt in, but an 87 only has a 3 speed tranny.

Yep, which is why it goes first.

Yeah, most of the time, if you lose reverse, the tranny is giong, not clompletely gone, but on deaths door.

I got the new link in and replaced the battery (it wouldn't hold a charge anymore) and all is working well!

I've busted a bunch of sockets, the chromies snap easily, no matter the make. At least Craftsman are a quick trip to the closest Sears for a new one. As for Harbor Frieght, I tend to buy the more non-precision tools (chip brushes and such) or tool accesories there (sand paper, grinding wheels, etc.). I did buy a brake caliper kit there, but for as often as I use it, it is just fine. I had some snap ring pliers from there, but they bent without much force and didn't budge the snap ring. I also got some knock off Vice Grip clamps they had, and they won't hold tension, they just pop loose. I have contemplated a couple Chicago Electric tools, but have been gun-shy on that.

No, it has no bearing on the TC lockup function.

Why? turning it off just means it won't shift into OD when you hit high enough speed for it to do so, it doesn't change anything until you are over about 50mph. You are just wasting gas if you are running the freeways with the OD off.

The beam style torque wrenches aren't too expensive, and work pretty good, as long as you are actually watching the pointer on it.

x3, reason being is that the main ECU in the autos comunicates with the tranny ECU. Manual tranny has no seperate ECU, so it's main ECU doesn't have the terminal on it to send signals to the trany ECU.

Kind of, they are a 2 stage bar.

Just fill it to the bottom of the filler hole and be done.

That holds true for all cordless impacts,good for tire changes, not much else automotive.