GrimGreg

The 94&95 are electronic clusters and are known to go bad.

Yeah, they are just 10mm headed bolts. Just look at your skid, where there is a hole at the front and rear, there is a bolt that goes there.

That could be your actual door pin.

Looks similar to a KMA, so yeah.

That one has the dunes listed, Samoa.

I have deflectors on both trucks, my 88 has Ventshade brand which stick inside the window channel, and my 93 has ones that stck to the body around the window opening (can't remember brand). The ones on my 93 seem to actually deflect the air/rain better than the Ventshades.

Yeah, the stock solid axel vehicles were engineered that way, just as ours were engineered with IFS. Yes SAS is a basic term and can be done properly and safely, but most are "good enough". I think the main factor that causes road wrecks for people with a SAS is how "soft" the front suspension usually ends up being and the front dives harder than an IFS vehicle. There are a lot of factors in SAS that need to be done correctly. Brake reworking, steering reworking, proper mounts for linkage or leaf eyes/shackles, geometry of link system, spring size and rates, shock size and resistance. Hell it is rare to see, but if you want a sway bar system, getting it mounted to function properly. While a lot of people have found what parts "fit" it doesn't mean they are going to work properly. Hell I know a guy who had a Calmini system on his Frontier and one of the parts failed and he flipped the truck, Calmini has no liability on it because they sell it as an "offroad use only" product. So don't think that even by going with a name brand "kit" you will have a "better", or more reliable install than a scratch built setup either.

FYI for those that don't know, autos don't have a dedicated starter relay. There is a fix to add one, that I have posted a link to a couple times now.

Is the bolt pattern different on the R-50 carriers? Nothing I ever looked into, but I doubt that the carrier section of the axel didn't change much between the different H233bs they made. ie, they didn't make the R-50 carrier completely different than an Xterra, Frontier or old Pathfinder. I know we can swap in 4.9s out of an Xterra axel into our WD-21s.

He got a bar from a Landcruiser and swapped it in (after minor mods). Looked like one end was adjustable on it also, so he could set i to just the right length he needed.

Use a thin metal putty knife and work it in to pop the clip tabs loose. If you are worried about scratching the paint you can try a plastic one, but there is a good chance it will just bend or break.

Yeah, unless you are playing offroad all the time, or making it a trail rig trailer queen I wouldn't SAS. Andrew sounds a little extreme in his paranoia of post conversion streetability, but he makes some valid points and I have seen many casulties of post SAS road wrecks. Heck there was one WD-21 back in the day that got a SAS, was wrecked, sold, rebuilt, wrecked, sold and rebuilt a third time only to get wrecked and flip causing damage beyond repair.

There are tons of places in the Eureka area that aren't listed, but it looks like it is more of a designated trail listing. Pretty much the whole coast line from Ferndale to Trinidad is open for ORV access, not all of it is legal but most areas are. Had a friend in high school flip his Toyota truck out on the Mad River dunes more than once (the jack-ass).

You can add the map lights (by rearview mirror) to any that don't have them, though some work is needed for some to mount it/ wire it.

No, not the Caravan. I did have an 82 Dodge van back in the 90s that had wood paneling and shag carpet though.

I know a source for some in an aftermarket mount replacement a guy makes. Nearly bullet proof mounts: http://www.noas4x4club.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3972

SWEET!

We used to play in the National Forests just east of Eureka when I lived out there. All kinds of abandoned old timber and fire trails to get lost and stuck on, lol.

Get a good used set. Really no way to repair them, and new parts are outragously expensive.

Could fix that "frame" twist he has....

I have seen a couple people swap in a York compressor for OBA setups. I remember reading that you need to setup an oiler to use the Nissan or it will seize up.

Dish soap has grease lifting detergents in it that laundry soap doesn't. Use whatever works for ya.

I tend to like them without the white lettering. If you run white letter out and scuff em offroading then they look like crap.

Actually, if done properly (a rarity), they are very stable since you effectively double the rigidity of the frame.

As many times as you have asked this, couldn't you have just had one made by the dealer and been done with it all?