GrimGreg

I went out to look at mine, and couldn't see in there because of the air cleaner brace that sits on the valve cover.

When the wires shorted out it might have damaged the ECU. How did you repair the wires?

Wow, odd for a ground wire to burn up. Maybe it is too small of guage or not making good contact to a ground source (frame, engine block, etc.)

Use 2 wrenches while it is still on the truck. Are you sure you are turning them the right direction? The inside and outside lock nuts will spin opposite directions.

I thought mine was bad Adam, damn. Mine was only about half that size of hole, but clear across like that.

If you ar going to go through all the trouble of pulling the manifolds off, might as well replace them then, rather than having to pull everything apart again to do it latteron down the road. If money is an issue and the manifolds are OK, then just replace the broken studs and put the manifolds back on.

I think the hole in that location is a compound issue. 1. there is a seam between the floor pan and firewall sheet metal there. 2. there is the Y-pipe an inch under it. So, not only does the seam collect debris and water that can cause the rust to start, it gets heated which over time probably fatigues the metal a bit making it easier to rust out.

Yeah, on or off button works the AC, but fan speed on max with AC on is what they mean. It puts the max load on the system so that the compressor won't cycle off.

Nope, I buy old stuff that uses a regular key.

I'm pretty sure AC uses 1 1/2" x 3/16" L angle.

As long as both ends of the bar are at the same level it will still function properly.

Some of the DIY r134 kits have a guage on them, when you hook it onto the system it will read if you need more, are full, or overfull.

I usually just use the "hose hand pump" method described above, never had any troubles.

Matching size is all that matters on the diff. Also you want all 4 the same size if you are using 4wd. Using mixed sizes can cause binding.

I've used a garage placce before, bay rental was cheap (hourly or daily rates). Where they made the real money was in tool rentals.

Swapping a boot is easy. Getting the CV off and on the truck is the "hard" part.

Like what? Running boards, light bar, grill guards? If so, nope. Nissan has long since stopped producing and selling those things. Classifieds /junkyard used parts are about your only real options.

Can I call dibs on your TM kit?

Been there, it is a pain to work on that stuff, especially if you have big hands. I almost cut back some of the interior sheet metal t get to some of that stuff, but did OK with a few harsh words and extra time.

Yeah, AZ alts have the lifetime warranty, but 2 out of 5 are duds.

No body lift or obvious front suspension lift. The rear looks like they might just be beefed up aftermarket springs, not lift springs....

Just put a nice JVC in my wife's VW, it has front input and front USB. I have a Dual in my 88 with front USB also, we just fill up jump drives and go. I wouldn't recommend the Dual, it has no folder setup, it just starts at file one and cycles through them all. The JVC uses the folders so you can skip folder to folder, it also displays album and song titles.

Same here, but I probably would have rolled it on the sand dunes too....

Typical IFS "Wink". Usualy caused by a worn out center link, it will pivot up on the idler and pitman arms and cause the toe in while under power in 4wd. If you have the parts for SAS, and plan to do one, just go ahead with that.

That would just give you a "dead spot" , or slop in your steering wheel if the gear was worn.