GrimGreg

Yeah, removing the TM will still give you the same clearance as having it on there with the same size tire on the wheels. You can still crank the t-bars with the TM lift to get more height, like you would in a standard 3" suspension lift and effectively get up to 7" lift in the front, but that is about all you can do. Be advised though cranking the T-bars will cause the same issues with or without the TM lift, mainly; tie rods and cv axels at bad angles. The only real way to gain clearance is to up the tire diameter, as none of the lifts move any of the suspension components up out of the way.

Yeeh, now that you mention that my 93 is like that (auto hubs) it's been a while since I used it. But my 88 isn't like that (manual hubs), as soon as I shift out, even with the hubs still locked in, it goes out.

I used L angle to repair one spot on the bottom of mine.

You can buy a rebuild kit, but for the cost and trouble, it is cheaper/easier to just get a whole new one usually.

It should come on as soon as you shift out of 2hi, and go out when you shift back into 2hi.

Yep, the sleeve on the rod should just fit with no movement.

My 80 amp flux core blew a couple holes where the metal was stable, but thinner. I need to patch a few more on my 93 here soon, new spots have showed up since my original patch job.

Just a round piece of metal about 1/4" thick that you would weld where the wallowed out hole is to keep the rod from moving.

Only way you could on ours would be to put them on the opposite side (input side) of the pinion between the driveline and the diff. Problem there is that they would get torn off on rocks for the rear, and no room to fit one on the front. Rockwells and other axels that have the pinion brake are manufactured with the brake there.

For the frame mig, tig or stick are fine. Tig would just take longer, and the precision of it isn't really needed.

If you have a welder just rebuild the missing area on them with weld and reuse them. They'll last at least another year that way.

Sheet metal is hard to weld with stick.

He probably ment other side of the frame rail, they run down the inside of the passenger frame rail. As for the gas tank, yeah, fill it up, make sure you have no leaks, and throw a welding blanket on it if you are working close.

You were one good suspension flex from those bad boys snapping. Luckily when the one snapped on my 93 it was as I was pulling out of driveway.

You chould have a stuck caliper on one side so when you hit the brakes it doesn't engage causing the kick. As for the wobble, it could be that a wheel weight has shifted slightly and the out of balance isn't apperent until higher speeds. (Or like B said, something loose/worn in your linkage.)

That it does, they don't keep stock of everything they sell, a lot of the stuff is either made per order, or shipped direct from the manufacturer.

Because they are just that, a whip. Granted if anyone is standing so close that the antenna can hit them, they are to close to the truck. There was a big debate about them on NOAS a while back.

I know, suspension seats are way down the list of upgrades, but would be soooooo nice.

The stock stuff is asphalt based. If they are looking to replace it they could use something like Dynomat.

Yeah, they've always been good to me. Get Mike or Jane on the phone and get the real story from them. I'm sure if they know what is up they'll work you either some freebies or something.

One reason they get by with that stock is because of the high sill lip.

Yep, frames are 99% the same, and the differences are nothing that would hinder anything.

I did that for one mount on my Maxima swapped seats, the mount location is through the same thickened area on the floor board as the original captive nut, but I wanted to be certain that it wouldn't rip out.

Yeah, my top PIAAs on my 88 are 125w.

Yeah, their brackets are about 1" off from ours.